BoostedBoxer421

^^Rust haha

yeah its just an instant power cut when it does it. im gonna try disconnecting the sending unit while running next

ok, ill see how that works soon as i can get to it. and im thinkin that because its as soon as i get gas every time now, right when the gas gauge moves about 1/8 inch it just cuts power. not all power, just ignition, everything else still works fine. the tach doesnt move when it happens, i just keep turnin the key and as soon as i see the tach jump a lil bit i just hold the key on and it fires right up

yeah i know!! i thought these little turbos only made like 8psi max boost. the boost seems to be more regulated to like 9-10psi now that i have a better exhaust gasket off of the turbo, but if im rallyin' off-road it'll make 12psi at 3k rpm in 1st and 2nd.. could the little bit higher boost off of the stock tuned everything cause problems? and i just have open exhaust off of the first big cat and my intake box is opened up and yeah i just have the one good EA82T fer now.. do you mean the gas gauge problem post??

Fuel pump is brand new, so I'll have to check power at fuses when it does die And its not the going up hill part, it does if I go down hill and stop too, or even if I accelerate really hard and when the gas gauge moves it dies I can pretty much count on it dying every time I get gas now, like it'll fire up for a second and die at the gas pump

so i swapped coil and the little square thing under it and it runs great now but its making about 9-12psi boost through 1-3 gear then its a steady 9psi in 4th and 5th

so recently ive been driving my turbo wagon daily, and now whenever i put gas into it or go up a steep hill and the gas gauge moves it dies when it dies i know its something electrical because i cant pop start it and the tach wont move when starter is running, but it'll start after a few minutes and i know when its about to start because the tach starts to jump when trying to start it ive never heard of anything like this before, so i was hoping someone may have had the same problem before and might know what to do. has been really frustrating lately

so is it like the handles, inside and out, dont move any of the mechanisms? do you have electric door locks?

ive had this happen to my wagon after jacking it up near the back door, and now i have to lift straight up kinda hard on the handle to get it open.. just an idea, ive never had any malfunctions with the mechanisms before so just throwin it out there

it means 'For The Win!' and ive heard stone HGs are pretty good compared to most

if i swap the part i was talking about between my turbo cars, that Gloyale said was the dropping resistor for injectors, it doesnt click at all and i dont get any fuel -im pretty sure the one from my parts car is bad, but it doesnt click like my original does

its a manifold from an XT series car. and it looks like electro ignition like MSD or something.. ive seen the MSD swap with the disty hole just covered before

I'm gonna take it all apart later today and make sure which one is making the sound the fuel pump doesn't stop pumping if I just leave the key on without it running.. like it doesn't stop once pressurized

sorry, I cant get a pic up. its an aluminum cased relay on the very top of passenger side strut tower in the front if you search -Subaru A15-000R00- on google pictures, the first pic looks just like it. the plug has 5 or 6 connectors, ill see for sure later today

hey everyone, this has been happening every time I start my 87.5 GL turbo recently.. as soon as I turn the ignition on to pressurize fuel, there's a relay above the boost solenoid that steadily clicks and keeps the pump going and doesn't stop pumping until I start it. I don't know what it is but would assume its the fuel pump relay since my 87.1 RX doesn't get fuel unless I use the one from my GL. what I'm trying to find out is where I can get one, because everywhere I've searched I cannot find it. the only numbers/letters on it are- JECS A15-000R00 (stamped) and 7413NA (black ink)

+1 every day... like beating an MR-2 in my 87 GL turbo wagon (yesterday) but that's always been my way lol gotta love Subaru's

could my problem be from putting the wrong coil in for a little while???

Its an 06/87 GL wagon with part time AWD I was thinking the timing was off but last time I checked it was fine, and it only seems to run bad under boost. I plannned on swapping the distributor and some other stuff from my parts car and see how it works

would a coolant temp sensor or something to do with warming up cause my problem? i had to leave early this morning, so my engine was still kind of cold once i got to the highway. it seemed like it was running perfect, like accidentally doing 75 just cruising in 5th but by the time i had gone about 5 miles and the temp gauge was at almost 1/3 i had same power loss, and in town while cruising at like 30 in 3rd it misses every once in a while

Jono said they vary from 42-36mm and the one I swapped on looked bigger I was thinking that a bigger up-pipe would give more flow through the stock turbo in the top end.. but now I want my quick spool up and low end torque back from the smaller up-pipe

its definitely not those clamps on the intake, ive been over those a lot looking for the problem the air sound is coming from the open air box for sure im thinking its to do with timing, fuel pressure, or vacuum somewhere

im not very sure on the asbestos part.. but when I pulled my heat shielding off my EA82T exhaust there was what looked like fiberglass insulation. and some of it was burnt up and was white powder that jus floated around when it came out I hope its not asbestos in the cat shielding, im just about to do that to mine

still trying to get a gauge to check manifold pressure.... I did think it looked bigger, but I didn't measure it.. will the bigger up-pipe ruin top end?? like accelerating from highway speeds? there is quite a rush of air n power in my low end now, and it seems to drop power around 4500 rpm.. so I welded up my old up-pipe and i'm just gonna throw that back on and see if theres a difference... and knowing how turbos work I wouldn't think that a bigger header would take my top end away, so i'm gonna swap back and see how it runs is there a way to check if that 3-way cat at the front is plugged? or just chop it up since I have another one on my not running RX (exhaust is cut off at the first big cat that's on turbo)

alright thanks, i'll try to check that later today and let ya know and it should be like 7-8psi under full boost right?

Kinda off topic, but where you said to T in a pressure line on my 87.5 GL the line goes from wastegate to selenoid then back to turbo.. and on my 87.1 RX it goes straight from wastegate to turbo Is there different boost cut off or just different vacuum locations?