BoostedBoxer421

HAHAHA i read my name, Galen, and thought i had commented somewhere without remembering Only other person ive seen named Galen! also, i think you may need an oil pump rebuild, wheres your oil pressure!?!?

yes i run premium gas, i think its 94, i can get higher octane gas though. im at stock 22* for now. was just asking if anyone knew where it would be best for boost at higher compression

just wondering what timing i should run with my EA82M (Mongrel) engine.. everyone has been telling me that it wouldnt run right, if at all. ive already done a 3 mile run up hill holding 6 psi boost the entire time and it never leaned out, i have my original timing for now cuz i dont have a timing light yet (22* or 24*) i have 02 readings in car at all times and havent had any problems yet runs perfect, just have to finish up my vaccum system now!! thanks for the help!

another common cause of white smoke on startup with high mile engines are valve guides, oil seeps in overnight while sitting and causes light smoke on startup. either way its no huge problem

ive thought about putting a Buick 215 alluminum block V8 into one of my wagons, looks like it would fit!!! hahaha

i just talked to my mechanic friend and he was telling me that a divorced oil supply setup for turbos dont usually require an external pump. ill have to get back to him on it and we can go do some testing (:

i got everything hooked up and went for a run today, and was kinda suprised by the numbers i saw! running on premium gas with small amount of additive to increase octane and i started at 22* timing but will be testing different setups cruising i was sitting at .55 to .65 volts at 02 sensor and i did a boost run and held at 5 psi for a couple miles up hill and my mixture was .75 the entire time so the infamous EA82M will continuallly be modified and tested on now in my RallyWagon!!!

hey everyone, just a quick question, does the oil in/out of these turbos need pressure to flow (does the turbo pump the oil? or does the engines oil pump supply the flow) same with coolant, i figure the coolant system is always under a certain amount of flow since the pump is always spinning, but does the turbo circulate water or does only the engine circulate it through the turbo? thanks in advance!!

so, unexpected events have called upon the build of my EA82M engine finally... i had planned on building this engine long ago but ended up having to move and lost the time/money/space to get into it all anyways, 3 days ago my performance EA82T froze and 3 of 6 freeze plugs pooped out of the heads.. i had put 50% coolant 50% water but it must not have circulated through the engine, because i had a frozen coolant system (block and lines) and a green slimey unfrozen radiator. i ran it for about 30 seconds or so and it sputtered a bit and sounded funny so i killed it and inspected..... found that my nice new engine with only 14k miles had churned up all the coolant into the crankcase and everywhere else i dont have much time til snow falls and need my car going asap. so, the mixture of about 10% lucas oil, 40% castrol gtx, and 50% water is almost impossible to get cleaned up at 20 to 30 degrees. i dont wanna risk ruining my nice new block because i cant clean it all out and i dont really have the time to do it properly until i can find somewhere to get my turbo block flushed/cleaned im going to put my fresh MPFI non-turbo block in place of my freshly dirtied turbo block (9.5:1) compression compared to (7.7:1) compression. im going to get an 02 reading and EGT reading while running it under boost and see how it does(: been 3 days since freeze plugs popped and i already have EA82M ready to drop in.. i soaked my heads, cam carriers, valve covers, turbo coolant lines, water pump, and oil pump in purple power to get the mixture of oil/water out now i have a fresh EA82M - 9.5:1 compression, stage 2 turbo cams, 3rd gen heads sightly ported, vf11 turbo (2.5" straight pipe), intercooler, and blow off valve... will update on my 02 readings and EGT readings once i get gauges hooked up.. until then, drivin it like a grandma

EA71 sedan with Fwd 4spd

Hey everyone, so I recently purchased a late 79 DL (1980) and was told that it wouldn't move from where it sat when I bought it because the brakes were seized.. so I went to inspect it and see what was wrong. I started it up and listened to that Subaru rumble for a bit (no exhaust) then put it in gear then it just drove perfectly fine.. until I pushed the brakes to pull off the highway, I noticed they were dragging a little bit so I stopped to look and the rear brakes were completely locked up by the time I got back in. But the next morning when I went to get the car it drove perfectly fine with no dragging on the brakes... I've never heard of anything like this happening so I thought id just ask you guys Thanks for any help guys and gals(:

New EA82T (:

Just made 200,000 miles... but only 8500 on brand new CCR EA82T(:

Hey everyone, I've been on the board here for a while but I've never been able to get any good pics of my Rallywagons, so here's my Rallywagon II 01/89 Loyale GL Turbo - brand new CCR EA82T, bored .30 over, ported stock VF48 turbo, stage 2 Delta turbo cams (260*), Blow-off Valve, and a Dual range 5spd 3.90 transmission And an amazingly clean engine that makes me stare at it all the time haha I'll post more pics of the engine soon(: Thanks for all the help on the board everyone!! I'll be here for a long time(:

My CCR EA82T with ported out stock turbo and stage 2 cams makes plenty of power up til 6.5-7k rpm... oh yeah, and 10psi boost with higher than premium gas(: the 2.5" straight pipe makes it sound like a performance V8 after 5k rpm lol

A good mixture/formula I've found for getting O2 sensors, exhaust bolts, turbo flange bolts, and driveline bolts is a 50% ATF (automatic tranny fluid) and 50% Acetone... works amazing, trust me haha I've destroyed 2 O2 sensors that were good before I found out about this mixture for breaking things loose

Haha I only said you couldn't do it cuz I never thought someone would do that without worrying too much about the propane everywhere under the hood

I'm not saying that a blow-off setup wouldn't work, I just feel like I wouldn't feel very safe if there was propane being vented off under the hood every time I shifted haha (: And my RallyWagon is really pissin me off lately.. I've tried too much for it not to have even fired at all, I'm trying to find an impco mixer as soon as I can to get my propane setup going Thanks Jono, that gives me a lot more research to do and a wider search area haha(: my buddy just got a Ford Ranger XL that has propane option and he's getting rid of it so maybe I'll start with that

So I've had the engine all put together for a couple weeks now and for some reason it will not start... getting fuel, spark, and everything is exactly how it was when I pulled the original engine.. only thing I can think of is that the computer is being weird or a timing issue, but I've been over the timing many times.. Jono, I believe that your issue with the impco 200 mixer is that it isn't the right size of mixer for one of these engines, the smallest size that seems to work is at least a 225.. the 200 probably doesn't richen up enough in regular driving (low end).. I've found that a 225 or bigger is a perfect match for these 1.8l engines. I'm looking for a 225 at the moment for the EA82M and will be looking for a 300 or bigger for my EJ22 swap in one of my other wagons

Should post in for sale forum/section And maybe some details haha

Now I'm curious as to how fast my brand new CCR EA82T will go.. stage 2 cams (262*) and ported turbo.. fastest so far was 95 in 4th gear You people make me wanna do dangerous things.. And by "you peolpe" I mean fellow Subaru lovers (: The only top speeds I've heard from RXs have been 125mph, but I think that one would beat that

But you can't run a Blow-off valve with a draw through setup(: and I see there being some problems with large volumes of propane between mixer, turbo, intake, and heads when you let the throttle shut quickly.. plus there would be some delay on the mixer output between draw-through and blow-through.. haha if you couldn't tell I plan on making a Rally-X car that would need good throttle response and dependability I would have rather used a carbed (8.7:1 comp.) for my gas set up, and use an NA MPFI (9.5:1) for propane Thanks Jono, your making me already plan on getting a propane setup within the next month or so (:

Early RX transmissions had a diff lock also, they were just activated by the part time 4wd lever, and was only locked in lo range

My 87 RallyWagon has seen 125mph breifly passing 4 cars (: not sure what that translates to kph haha

Beautiful car by the way