pontoontodd

Yes, the rust is bad, most of the northeastern US uses a lot of road salt. A lot of that is just surface rust and will be cleaned off the first time we go out in sand or something though. Interesting. This is a BG Outback but the stock exhaust was nothing like that! How much does a euro BG exhaust cost? I did think about doing something like that with the EJ25, kinda doubt it would work with the EZ30.

I fabricated a new exhaust from the cat back. That big tube along the driveshaft is 2.5" x .095" 4130. Hopefully that won't get crushed. Bolts on at the muffler, so that flange is up out of the way. Muffler is where the stock gas tank used to be. Tube that goes between the crossmember and body is 2.25" and barely fits. Have to lower the crossmember a bit to get it in and out. Got a tab with bolt that attaches that to the muffler outlet. All of these connections overlap 1-3" to minimize leakage and keep it from falling apart. This is what the rear parts of the exhaust look like welded. Had some silver high temp paint so I hit the welds and other bare metal parts with that. All welded up and bolted together. I need to add another hanger somewhere near the last cat, but this will be good for on road driving.

Some flavors of electrical tape I used on the wiring. The middle roll is thick and super gummy, so I covered it with the wide stuff. Worked nice for making the loom a tight fit in the firewall hole and give it some padding. This is what that whole mess looks like behind the heater boxes. It took hours but I got the heater and AC boxes bolted in. Hoping they settle in with some heat and vibration. Hella fuse block I got to replace the one we removed, gives me a few extras to use for stuff we're adding (lights, jacks, tracker). Have to clean this up, but you can see the crimp connectors that crimp the conductor and the insulation. I looked for those for years before finally finding them. Spliced the wires for the 99 clutch and brake pedal into the wires that went to the brake pedal on the 2002. Pushing down on either pedal opens that circuit, so should cancel the cruise. Wiring I've removed from the 2002 harness in the last couple weeks. Had to get pusher fans since nothing I could find would fit between the radiator and engine. These are 13" Spal fans, but they're closer to 14" on the outside of the housings. Had to trim a few things to make them fit. Lower mounting tabs. Added one mounting tab, one threaded insert, and bolted the other ears into the condenser mounts. Had to remove the headlights to install the fans and trim the headlights to bolt them back in. I need to clean up the wiring, but I have both hot leads for each fan spliced into these fans. The sub (passenger) fan relays are wired in parallel, so if either of them work the fan will run. For some reason the main fan relays are wired in series, so if main 1 stops working, that fan won't run. Thinking about changing that to parallel. Fan relay is still wired up but I have them hard wired to ground also. We also mounted the 2002 fuse block, air filter, power steering reservoir, and both coolant overflow bottles. Working on coolant lines and exhaust.

Worked on cleaning up the wiring. Got the passenger side basically all in wire loom. Driver's side is still a mess. Most of the engine compartment wiring is in loom now. Ran out of 1/2", not too much left to go in engine compartment though. That coil of wire loom near the washer fluid bottle is going to go. Noticed this seam in the body is slightly buckled right by where the windshield is cracked. There is probably some relationship between those two facts. I was cleaning some of the dirt and rocks out from the base of the windshield and realized there are drains on both sides that were completely plugged up. Probably why the carpeting would get wet when the car sat outside in the rain. Got a fuel injector and spark plug for #1 cylinder. Fuel injector didn't seem to help, idle was same with it plugged in or unplugged. Replaced the spark plug. Old one didn't look too bad, dirty but the tip was shiny. Seemed to actually change the idle a little when you unplug and plug back in that injector now, not as dramatic as the others though. I put the gauges back in and took it for a drive. First thing I noticed is that it's smoking a little, with some coolant smell, but I'd just topped that off. It definitely seems to pull harder now, maybe not what I hoped but more power than the four cylinder, but also smokes like mad when you hold the throttle open. Doesn't look or smell like oil smoke. Coolant is mostly water now so it's mainly steam. So I'm assuming that cylinder has a bad head gasket leak or worse and the spark plug was fouled. No trouble codes. Hazard light switch has to be plugged in for the turn signals to work. Drove the Impreza and H6 99 Outback back to back up the uphill bridge. When I went to add coolant to the Outback the pressurized overflow bottle definitely smelled like hydrocarbons. Outback definitely feels faster and isn't noticeably smoking now but won't connect to OBDII scanner. According to the GPS, the 99 OB H6 is definitely faster than the EJ22 96 Impreza. The OB hits 70mph in 13 seconds while the Impreza hits 62mph in 15 seconds. OB hits 57mph (top of second) in 9 seconds, Impreza takes 12. The Outback basically averages 1 mph / s more acceleration the whole way up.

Fortunately I was able to pop the cover off the instrument panel and the needle for the temp gauge snapped back down when I pushed it. Temp gauge seems to work perfectly. This is how I routed the 2002 harness into the engine compartment. Could have put this fuse block inside the car, but there's even less room there. Figure we'll mount it between the master cylinders. Hole sawed through the firewall and down into the car. 2" holesaw is the biggest I have, getting the relay strip through there was a pain, but it's all in now. Wire out of the instrument panel that goes to the alternator is black/white, so I spliced into that... And crimped some spade connectors on that and the wire from the 2002 that goes to the middle alternator pin (red tape). Alternator charges now. Works without the idiot light bulb installed too. Looked at the wiring diagram again and there is a diode that connects that circuit to one of the others so the alternator will still charge with the bulb removed or burned out. My friend also was looking at the interior fuse block on the 2002 harness. There were really only three fuses we were still using. So we checked all that, unplugged that fuse block, and spliced three fuses into a few wires, and everything still seems to work. Except a few of the fan relays aren't working, but I think I see the fuse we missed that runs those, that should be a simple fix. The accessories weren't working because I wasn't sure what the four wires to the ignition switch did after messing with it with the multimeter. My friend found the wire colors for those in the 99 FSM. I had spliced into the one that powers ignition, but there is a separate one that powers the accessories. So now the wipers and power mirrors work. My friend rewired some 1000 ohm 10W resistors into the TCM with a terminal strip. A little nicer than the breadboard setup, they run much cooler than the 47 ohm resistors, and still no codes. Also pictured here is the tach adapter. They probably sell a million of these, they're super easy to set up and seem to work perfectly. Another thing I did was wire the fuel level wire that went to the 99 ECU to the 2002 ECU. No fuel level code since I did that. Horn didn't work because we connected the plug for the cruise set/resume switch at the column to the 2002 harness. The horn goes through that plug. So that's an easy fix. Looked at the VSS diagrams some more. The 99 goes straight from the trans to the ECU and speedo. The 2002 has two VSS inputs to the TCM and a torque converter speed signal (TCSS), which should still be working, I left it on the engine. Then it sends a VSS signal to the speedo, cruise control module (CCM), and ECU. The VSS signal for the ECU/speedo is a 0/5V pulse, the ones for the auto trans are AC, possibly sub 5V. So we spliced the VSS signal from the manual trans into the 2002 ECU/CCM and it seems happy. The cruise wasn't working because I had the 2002 brake switch plugged into the harness, but without the pedal pushing against it, that made the cruise module think the brake pedal was pushed down. So I jumped that for now and the cruise works. We were getting a code for cruise control set, I think I fixed that by cutting a wire from the TCM to the CCM. Actually drove it a few times with no codes, no check engine light, cruise works. It did stall a few times. Then the check engine light started flashing. Misfire on cylinder 1. Seems like pulling that fuel injector plug doesn't change the idle at all. If you unplug any of the others, the idle drops, plug them back in, idle picks back up. So it seemed to be running on five cylinders, which would explain the unimpressive power. Couple things semi related to that. This thing pumps out a decent amount of smoke from the breathers when you disconnect the valve cover hoses. I should try it sometime on the white 02. The black stamped steel covers for the fuel rails are heavy. They're probably 14 gauge steel and part of it is doubled up. Is that so when you're in a horrible wreck the fuel rails don't get damaged? Speaking of super heavy, the passenger airbag is like a solid brick of steel. I'm very tempted to take the cover off and put it on the car and leave the airbag out. I'm not going to hook them up regardless. Just not sure if it's worth risking death or serious injury to take ten pounds off the car. We also watched the ignition timing at full throttle, the ECU only gives it about 20 degrees advance at full throttle. Test drove the white 02 wagon and that also only has about 20 degrees advance at full throttle. So I could see bumping that up with a tune would help considerably. This morning I went back at it, trying to figure out if that injector or coil or spark plug was bad. So I pulled the coil off and jammed a spark plug in it. I could barely get the engine to start, and it was idling rough at maybe 600RPM. The spark plug was definitely sparking. Put that all back together and it still seems to idle rough and slow. When I checked codes I had a MAP code and O2 heater code (I'd unplugged it to get at the #1 coil pack). Cleared those and it was back to idling smoothly at about 900RPM. #1 injector still seems to have no effect on idle speed, others do. Wondering if #1 could be getting enough fuel from the other five cylinders from the intake manifold (if that injector isn't working) to sort of run with the ignition hooked up. The injector is getting 12V with the ignition on. I will probably replace the injector and the spark plug if I can get at it. Any thoughts on that?

Wiring for fuel temp / pressure sensors, evaporative solenoid, etc. Two of the wires at the ECU just need a resistor between them. Two others had 12V with some resistance going to them. There are a bunch of these green/black wires running around that are 12V with ignition on. There were two we'd cut that went to the trans and timer relay, so I spliced into those for the above wiring to the ECU and to power the tach signal adapter. With heat shrink. Splice into VSS. The 99 speedo still works with the 99 VSS, which is good. I'm pretty sure I've spliced into the wires for the 2002 VSS1 but no MPH on the OBDII scanner. This was the only one we had hooked up when we drove the 2002 donor car around and had MPH showing up at the speedo and OBDII. If nothing else this will be required for the cruise, and it might be causing the engine not to run at full power. Based on my GPS logs, the car accelerates no faster from 30 to 50 on level ground than it did with the EJ25. Not the most accurate test, so I tried something different. Drove the white 2002 Outback up an uphill bridge by my house. Started at 10mph at the bottom, 40mph by the time I got to the first light pole maybe a hundred feet away, 70 by the time I got to the last light pole at the top and still pulling hard. Next was the 96 Impreza, I started in second gear at 10mph, it hit about 30mph at the first pole, 60 at the top and running out of breath. Last was the 99 with the H6. Basically the same as the Impreza but louder. So I don't think it's making full power. Don't know if that's electrical or mechanical. Wires for oil pressure idiot light and temp gauge spliced in. DO NOT ground the wire going to the temp gauge to check that you have the right one. It caused the gauge to instantly peg out straight up. Have to fix that or swap it out. Also got the check engine light working and hooked up the tach adapter and got the tach working. So at this point the main wiring task I haven't done is getting the alternator to charge. Trying to get various things to work, I've plugged everything back in. I thought maybe the stock ECU had to be plugged in to turn some things on. When I turn on the ignition, it didn't ground the MIL/CEL or run the fuel pump, so it doesn't seem to be working. Horn relay clicks when I hit the horn button. None of the wipers or power mirrors work. Power locks, turn signals, and interior and exterior lights work. Is there something that went to the engine that needs to be grounded?

Hooked up most of the various wires and plugs. Took me longer than it should have to realize that I have to splice the hot ignition switched lead from the 2002 harness into the same for the 99 since that is no longer plugged into the ignition switch. It does seem to at least idle smoother now, after a few seconds it drops down to about 1000RPM. Got the speedo working in dash but not reading MPH at ECU so cruise isn't working. Auto VSS was two wires, the VSS in the 99 is three, but one of those which I think should be +12V doesn't have any voltage. Same color (green/black) wire that goes to the speedo in dash spliced into the signal wire for the TCM, not sure what is going wrong there. One time I drove it I had a code for VSS A, but not the last time, but ECU still showed just 0mph. Turn signals, brake switch, power locks, and headlights are working, but wipers and power mirrors aren't. When I turn it on there's a relay under hood that clicks on and off a few times, but then stops. Any thoughts on those two issues would definitely be appreciated. Only other code was the fuel level A. I figure tomorrow I'll work on the tach, temp gauge, idiot lights, and alternator wiring. Hopefully those will be easy.

One issue with the radiator hoses is that the lower radiator water neck is about an inch away from the timing chain cover and points right at it. You could probably jam the hose on but I doubt it would last. Cut off the neck at an angle and made up a slightly longer and thicker piece to weld on. Got it welded on. Found out there is a pinhole leak (dark spot in the picture below), so I'll have to take it back. Even with that welded on at an angle, the radiator hose still hits the timing chain cover. I'll put a piece of rubber in between and it should be alright. Also in this picture you can see that the "frame rail" on that side is buckled, so that doesn't help either. The upper hoses were a little easier. Only complication is that the H6 has two outlets but I want to keep this 2" core radiator which has just one inlet. I got a tee from Jaguars that run, only place I could find something like that. Those guys have been in business for a long time, we got a V8 Z car swap kit/book from them about 20 years ago. Used a piece of 1.25" aluminum tubing, a radiator hose I had laying around, and cut up the long H6 hose. On the plus side, I can drive the car now. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem much better than the EJ25. Idle is high and erratic, definitely has an exhaust leak. According to the GPS, with the EJ25 just before the swap, in third gear it went from 20 to 30mph in 6 seconds. Took 5 seconds to go from 30 to 50mph. With the EZ30, 20 to 30 took 2.5 seconds but 30 to 50 took 6 seconds. When I drove it, I couldn't connect to the OBDII scanner, when I got back and grounded a wire I'd missed, just had codes for fuel pressure/fuel temp/evap. I don't have a lot of things hooked up, VSS, gauges, etc, so that's next. I'm wondering if it is electrical, the engine being weak, or a combination of the two.

First thing I tried with the exhaust was cutting the driver's side most of the way, cutting the passenger side completely, and thought about extending that side. That might have worked but it put the rear O2 into the tunnel by the time the exhaust cleared the crossmember. Then I thought it would be simpler to just flip around that section of the driver's side exhaust. It bends right away coming out of the front cat but is straight for a few inches before it goes into the rear cat. That straight part is why it wouldn't clear the crossmember. Here is what it looks like flipped around and tacked back together. Still hits but seems like the flanges bolt up flush to the heads. Welded back together. Pipe in the bottom middle is what I flipped around. Back in the car. It was pretty loud with just the three cats, so I tacked the section with the next two silencers back in and wired it up for now.

Nope, haven't done anything with it yet. There was sparkly stuff in the coolant too, considering that and the 187k it has on it, it might be best to just buy a lower mileage engine.

Thanks, just meant I don't know much about the EA cars. You're probably right, a lot of work to get an extra couple inches of travel is probably not worth it for trail riding. Being able to tune real offroad shocks for higher speed use is good even without increased travel, but not worth it for crawling. Seems like it might be possible to get 10-12" even with short arms with enough body lift. If we did a 4-6" body lift on an EJ we could probably get 14"+ travel with the stock links/arms. Following to hear how the axles work out.

Rallyru just mentioned in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/162379-long-travel-front-suspension/ that these type of axles are available on Rockauto. Looks like they're about $93 each, front and rear for some cars.

1996 Impreza EJ22 with 255k and still going strong. Been overheated countless times, first time hit a deer and lost all the coolant, then had no fans for a while since the rad had been pushed back, overheated a bunch more times. Only one time in the years I've owned it that it wouldn't start, usually sits for a week or two at a time outside. Planning on getting an Outback starter for it eventually. Had to replace the clutch and trans over 200k, other than that it's been a great car. The best entertainment per dollar of any car I've ever owned.

Guess I missed that this is an EA car, sorry.

Full build thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/144953-long-travel-outbacks-or-making-subarus-faster-and-more-reliable-offroad/ The start of the long travel build starts on post 81: http://www.ultimates...-4#entry1266961 Fairly current pictures of the long travel struts on post 218: http://www.ultimates...-9#entry1307908 Reader's digest version, we made inverted struts for the front and rear. It is a fair amount of work and expense. If someone wanted to buy a set I'd probably have to charge about $5000. You'll probably find this to be the case for any set of rally struts and springs that are well regarded. The axles were sort of a limiting factor in droop, but various other things were binding up at that point also, it would take a fair amount of additional work to get more droop. Bump travel more limited by spring height (solid height vs travel) and tire to body clearance. A body lift would help both of those factors. Hotbits I think sells 10" front / 12" rear travel struts for about $2000 with springs. I have heard they bend when pushed hard, so we've never tried them. I know a guy with a used set he'd probably sell, PM me if you're interested.

For the most part, mechanically this swap is simple since it's Subaru into Subaru. I had some difficulty removing the engine from the trans in the donor car. I think they were corroded together and/or the bellhousing dowels and torque converter pilot were tight. I used the hammer and chisel sparingly on the parting line and threaded some bolts into the engine and hammered on those. Make sure you unbolt the torque converter, there is an access plug at the top of the block under the intake manifold. It helps to put a jack under the front of the trans so the engine isn't holding it up while you're trying to separate them. Make sure you have both bellhousing dowels in place in the engine or trans. One thing I did before installing the H6 was to RTV that plastic cover for the torque converter bolts back in. Also duct taped both sides of the flywheel shield, there were some slots in it. May not last but it's a nice thought. If you're not running in a lot of dust like we do, you can skip this. Flywheel and clutch from the 99 bolt right up to the H6. Transmission bolts up. Starter works. Engine mounts line up perfectly in the 99 crossmember. Throttle cable hooks up, even has the right amount of throw.

Are those Heri axles? Curious to see how they hold up when you start beating on them. How much travel are you trying to get? We got 11-12" of travel out of a custom built strut setup. There are a lot of limitations beyond that unless you're making all new arms and links or making major body modifications/lift.

Fuel lines/filter are the same. I'd recommend using the H6 radiator as the radiator hoses will be much simpler that way. But we already had a 2" thick core Mishimoto in the 99 that I really wanted to keep. The H6 is definitely longer, maybe only an inch, but there is no way any Subaru fans are going to fit between the radiator and the engine. Even if they did, I don't know where the air would go when it came out. Piece of 2" square tubing pictured in between I was using to check for clearance. I think the only reasonable solution is to put a pair of pusher fans on the front. Exhaust from the H6 almost fit the 99, some modification will be required. H6 exhaust hits the 99 trans crossmember on the driver's side. Almost bolts up flush to the head, back end of the cats probably has to go up about 1". Exhaust will go to the driver's side anyhow, so I'll just tweak the stock system for now to fit. We wanted to use the accessories on the H6 since the pulleys are different and it would make things much easier. The high pressure (short) AC line from the 2002 and the low pressure (long) AC line from the 1999 seem to connect the 2002 compressor to the 1999 evaporator and condenser. Power steering lines at the top of the crossmember thread right in.

We're swapping an EZ30 H6 out of a 2002 Subaru Outback sedan into my 1999 Subaru Outback (EJ25, five speed manual). For more info on the car, check out my build thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/144953-long-travel-outbacks-or-making-subarus-faster-and-more-reliable-offroad/ This is the most helpful thread on this swap I've seen: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f145/t155496-dynes-1999-2-5rs-h6-ez30d-swap.html You will also want to download the factory service manual (FSM) for your donor car, and probably the car you're putting it into: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy%20Outback/2002/ There are four ways to get a running H6 Subaru. For engine or trans swapping purposes, the 2001-2004 non VDC cars are the simplest. The easiest is just to buy a decent H6 Subaru. I would recommend this, if you want a manual trans, swap one in, you'll probably need to swap the rear diff too, still less work and expense than an engine swap. This post and the links above will help with the wiring side of that. The next easiest is probably to buy an engine from a junkyard and use a standalone ECU. The money and time you'll save by not buying a complete donor car and removing the wiring will probably pay for the standalone. As I understand it, this is the only way to use a later EZ30 or EZ36. I bought a donor car and we pared down the wiring to the minimum needed to run the engine with no codes and keep the cruise control and alternator working. It seems like a lot of people, including in the thread above, do a harness merge. This involves taking the harness out of both cars and combining them into one. This would definitely be less wiring to fit in the car than the way we did it, but you'd really have to know what you're doing and be confident you're not going back to the stock engine. This first post will cover the wiring. By far the biggest headache is the wiring, especially since it means removing both dashboards and HVAC systems to get at it (and putting one of them back in eventually). This part of the swap took us at least two weeks, but a lot of that time should be reduced if you follow this guide. Starter wiring is the same. The wires for the ignition switch on the 99 plug right into the harness of the 2002 even though one is four pin and the other is six. The transmission and instrument panel wiring do not match the FSM, so that added to the challenge. Seemed like the main reason to have the dash plugged in was the alternator wouldn't charge without it and it would cause the fuel level code. The FSM showed one of the wires going through the battery idiot light. So I wired a resistor instead, alternator charges and no fuel level code (usually) with this. Spliced the green/white wires coming out of that blue plug in the front of the 2002 interior fuse block through a resistor to that second pin over on the SMJ (black/white wire). Bottom line, you need to have 12V (switched on with ignition) going to pin 1 (black/white wire) of the alternator. I had a 47 ohm resistor between the 12V ignition source and the alternator. I believe that circuit opens when the alternator starts charging, which normally turns off the battery idiot light. When we put this in the 99, I wired the black/white wire from that instrument panel (pin 8 i10, about the middle of the left hand connector) to the black/white wire coming from the 2002 alternator. Even if the battery idiot light burns out, there is a diode going to one of the other circuits in the instrument panel that will keep the alternator charging the battery. One of the last things I did before we pulled all the wiring out was to figure out the feeds for the various gauges and idiot lights. Debated putting the 02 instrument cluster in the 99 but physically it's surprisingly different and electrically it will probably be simpler to keep the 99 instrument cluster. So, again using the FSM, figured out the CEL/MIL, oil pressure idiot light, and temp sender (for gauge). The 2002 FSM seems to have the right wire colors but the pinouts for the instrument cluster are different than the actual gauges. Some of them were easy to confirm by testing for continuity on the well labeled circuit board to the pins on the top of the instrument cluster. Final confirmation was cutting them and then grounding the CEL/MIL and oil pressure to see them light up. Also put a resistor between temp gauge and ground to see the needle move. Do not ground the wire for the temp gauge, it will cause the gauge to shoot all the way up and stick there until you take the cover off the instrument panel and unstick the needle. Oil pressure switch is green/orange, MIL/CEL is red/white, and temp is pink/white for the 2002 EZ30. Also figured out which wire to cut to kill the tach but still read on the OBDII scanner, same with the speedo. Near the ECU I spliced those to the wires coming out of the 99 EJ25 ECU. The black blue wire at pin 64 (third row) of the EJ25 ECU goes to the tach. I wired this to the output of the tach adapter. Pin 9 B136 of the EZ30 ECU is an orange/white wire that I ran to the input of the tach adapter. The red green wire at pin 58 (near center of third row) of the EJ25 ECU is grounded when the MIL/CEL is on. So I spliced that into the red/white wire coming from the EZ30 ECU. I cut the wires going to the oil pressure switch and temp sender for the EJ25 and spliced wires from those to the corresponding senders for the EZ30. They both are on connector B21 going to the EJ25 engine, the pinout is as follows: - - - - - - - - 9 10 - - Pin 9 is green or green/white depending on which side of the connector you're using. It is grounded when the oil pressure is low. Connect this to the green/orange wire for the EZ30. Pin 10 is violet or white/green and goes to the temp sender. Connect that to the pink/white wire for the EZ30. I didn't wind up doing it this way, but since the 2002 FSM is inaccurate regarding the instrument panel wiring, here is a little info on that. Looking at instrument panel where i12 plugs in: - - - 3 - - - - 12 - - 9 8 - Pin 3 is green/white and has 12V with the ignition on, powers the various gauges and idiot lights. Pin 8 is pink/white and goes to the temp sensor. Pin 9 is black/blue and goes to ground. Pin 12 is red/white and goes to the MIL/CEL pin on the ECU. The main code we kept getting was the fuel level code, P0463 I think. Eventually I just wired the brown / white wire that went to pin 27 of the 99 EJ25 ECU to pin 25 B135 (brown/black?) on the 2002 EZ30 ECU. It seemed with everything hooked up this would get 3V but when we tried to just give the EZ30 ECU 3V at that pin we'd still sometimes get the code. The picture below also shows the tach adapter. That was very easy to wire up and works great. At the top of the picture are the 10W resistors we wired to the TCM so it thinks it's still hooked up to solenoids. I would recommend 1000 ohm 10W or they will get pretty hot. If you want the wipers, power mirrors, and other accessories to keep working on the Subaru you're putting this in, you'll have to power both the ignition and accessory circuits. Easy way to do this is to go from the big green wire in the 2002 harness (see below for a convenient place to shove a spade terminal in that) to the harness of the car you're putting this in. The 99 has a four pin connector B72 for the ignition switch. Since we'd plugged the ignition switch from the 99 into the 2002 harness, the 99 harness end was just hanging loose. It has four big wires, black yellow, red yellow, red, and blue red. Red yellow and red are for accessories and ignition, so we plugged 12V ignition into both of those. On a side note, the turn signals won't work if you don't have the hazard switch plugged in. Another code we got before we were done was P0452 (evaporative). There are four important wires going to the back in one connector that will cause trouble codes aside from the fuel level. We traced them back to the ECU and wired in some resistors as follows. If you don't have the red/light blue or black/yellow wires hooked up, you will get P0183 fuel temp sensor A circuit high. There is normally about 3.5k ohms between these, so I wired in a 3.2k ohm resistor. The green/black wire disconnected will cause a P1400. The brown/yellow wire disconnected will cause a P0447 evap emissions vent control circuit system open. These both seem to want voltage. There are various green/black wires running around the harness that are 12V with ignition on, perfect for this. Make sure to get one of those and not the VSS though. I went from the green/black 12V to a 3.9k ohm resistor. I spliced the green/black and brown/yellow wires to the other side of the resistor. After we put the 2002 harness in the 99 my friend realized we only needed a few fuses on the interior 2002 fuse block, so we cut that down. Here are the fuses we needed: 13 fuel pump 14 15 16 17 fans 18 fans & cruise 11 ignition 19 gray connector 1BR - - - - 6BL - 8G - - ignition connector - - - - 5GR - - - - - - - gray connector 1GL 2GL 3GB - - - - white connector 1GL - - - 5GB - - blue connector (front of fuse block) 1GB - - - - - - - - - - - - - The big green wire, pin 8 of the first gray connector, supplies fuses 11, 17, and 18. The black red wire, pin 1 of the same connector, supplies fuse 13. The other side of fuse 11 goes to the green red wire, pin five of the "ignition" connector. I forget what color that one was. The other side of fuse 13 goes to the black blue wire, pin six of the gray connector for the fuel pump. The other side of fuse 17 goes to the green blue wires, pin one and two of the other gray connector. This is for the fan relay and sub fan relays 1 & 2. The other side of fuse 18 goes to three green black wires. One is pin three of the gray connector for the main fan relays. Another is pin one of the blue connector for the cruise main switch. The third is to pin five of the white connector for the cruise control module. Main fan is driver's side, sub fan is passenger side. To test the fans, you can put a resistor in place of the temp sensor. This is the pinout looking at the harness plug: black/brown brown/red brown The black/brown has 5V from the ECU, the brown/red is the temp signal to the ECU. The temp sensor reads about 3k ohm at room temperature. I put a 1k ohm resistor in the harness plug and the ECU reads 109F. Anything under 120 ohms seems to read 210F and should turn on all the fan relays. The brown wire at the bottom of the plug is just for the gauge. That pin on the sender reads about 1k ohm to ground. Didn't wind up cutting or splicing any wires for the OBDII connector, but there are really only four pins on it that matter. A few times if we didn't have the grounds for the TCM hooked up it didn't work. Here is the pinout looking at the connector: BR - - - - - - - - - VG - W W - - - The black/red is 12V with the igntion on, comes from the main relay I think. Violet/green is the signal wire that should go to pin 21 B134 on the ECU. The whites should be grounded. It was somewhat difficult to keep the cruise control working. The brake pedal switch is normally closed going to the cruise control module (CCM). Easiest solution is to short this. I did eventually wire it to the 99 brake and clutch pedal switches so it turns off if you hit either of those pedals. The green black wire that goes from the transmission control module (TCM) to the CCM pin 3 is for vehicle speed. I cut this at the TCM and connected the VSS from the 99 five speed to it so it sends a VSS to the ECU (pin 1 B134), speedo, and the CCM. The 99 VSS has three wires, I believe they are red/black = 12V, green/black = signal, and black/red = ground. The speed sensors in the auto trans must have a different output. Originally I'd wired the VSS from the manual trans to VSS1 for the auto trans and never got a VSS out to the speedo/ECU. Didn't keep the cruise from working, but we'd get a cruise set code with black orange wire connecting the TCM to the CCM pin 3. So I cut it and so far cruise works and no codes. There is quite a bit of wiring involved to keep the TCM, and therefore the ECU, happy. One of the big hassles with figuring this out is that the 2002 FSM only shows the wiring for VDC cars, and that TCM has three connectors whereas ours has only two. So the pinouts are completely different. The 2001 FSM seems to have the right pinouts in the circuit diagrams but some of the wire colors are different. To top it off, the TCM I/O signal chart in the 2001 FSM shows the pinouts for three connectors. If you have some of this stuff disconnected, you'll get a P0866 and/or P1698. The TCM needs to be grounded, so ground pins B9 and B19 (brown/white wires) of the TCM. If these aren't grounded I think it causes the OBDII port to not work. One thing to do is to wire resistors in place of the solenoids. If not you will get codes P0743, P0778, etc. I would recommend 1000 ohm 10W or they will get pretty hot. This is a lot more resistance than the solenoids but seems to work. I got a terminal strip from McMaster. I also kept the dropping resistor which was bolted to the passenger side strut tower. That is wired into the circuit for some of these shift solenoids, see page WI-52 of the 2001 FSM supplement 6 cyl. I wired a 330 ohm resistor in place of the ATF temp sensor. This is in the middle of the normal range according to the FSM, and I've read other people have done this. This resistor goes between the light green and yellow/white wires at the TCM. The ATF temp light flashed when we still had the 2002 instrument panel connected, but never gave a trouble code. I guess if you're doing a manual trans swap into an H6 car, just pull out that bulb or cut the wire to the idiot light. If you're not going to have a Subaru automatic, you need to get around the inhibitor switch. The main thing you need to do is bypass the neutral/park switch for the starter wire. The easiest thing to do is to splice the white/blue and white/green wires together near where they plug into the trans. Once you take this all out of the car you'll see there's a lot of starter wiring going on, it goes through a harness plug that just has a jumper, and where it goes to that inhibitor switch it goes from being about 10 gauge to 20 gauge. So I cut a lot of that out. I cut the wires that are grounded in various gears, at the TCM these are B22 light green/black, B17 red/blue, B23 blue, A1 blue/black, A10 yellow/blue, B18 red/green, and B8 green. We haven't had any codes in a while but just have it wired to think it's in drive all the time. You do that by grounding the green wire to pin 8. I actually have that and the neutral wire (light green/black pin 1) on a toggle switch so I can ground one or the other, but just leave it in drive. It has stalled a couple of times, which I've read is a side effect of it thinking it's always in drive, but hasn't lately. I have read that pin 8 B134 should be grounded in N, 5V in drive. I think I just cut that wire and haven't had any codes since. If I do flip my toggle switch to ground the neutral wire I do get a park/neutral code (P0851?). One of the last wiring projects was the air conditioning. The 99 system is pretty simple. There is a wire for the AC compressor relay the ECU grounds. The ECU also runs the radiator fans. There is another wire that goes to the ECU that I assume tells it you have the AC switched on. It goes through the temp sensor on the evaporator. The 2002 system is much more complicated. Four pages in the FSM versus one for the 99. There are at least five wires going to the 2002 ECU related to AC. Long story short I couldn't get it to ground the AC compressor relay. The 99 is pretty simple so it was fairly easy to hotwire the AC. I plugged the connector from the 99 that goes to the compressor into the H6 compressor. There is 12V going through the pressure switch and the thermal overload and then to the AC compressor relay. If the pressure is too low (or maybe too high?) or the thermal overload is open, the relay won't have 12V. The 2002 H6 compressor seems to have different thermal overload wiring than the 99, so I hotwired that. Take the yellow and red/white wires at the compressor plug and splice them together. The yellow/green wire going to the compressor energizes the clutch, it's the only one really needed. I wired up a four pole switch to ground the AC compressor relay, fan relay, main fan relay 1, and sub fan relay 1. This seems to throw a fan code on the ECU if the coolant temp starts to get hot, I assume when the ECU sees the fan relay is already grounded when it tries to turn them on it gets confused. So now the AC works. One good thing about this setup is that we could just unplug the compressor or compressor relay and turn the switch on to run the fans if it's running hot. The biggest downside is that it doesn't turn off at full throttle. That wouldn't be too hard to do, but I haven't bothered. The next posts will cover the plumbing and mechanical issues.

One thing I did before installing the H6 was to RTV that plastic cover for the torque converter bolts back in. Also duct taped both sides of the flywheel shield, there were some slots in it. May not last but it's a nice thought. Clutch out of the 99 was pretty dusty but not terrible. Another thing I did while there was no engine in the 99 was to fix this. I think it's been like this for a while, I think it's just from the crossmember bolts being overtightened. Cleaned off the paint and caulk, hammered it flush, welded it, and repainted it. H6 went in fairly easily. We hooked up the wiring and the fuel lines and it fired right up. Still a lot of work to do but a relief to hear it run. Only trouble code was fuel temp, we had taken out the resistors for that. It is definitely longer, maybe only an inch, but there is no way any Subaru fans are going to fit between the radiator and the engine. Even if they did, I don't know where the air would go when it came out. Piece of 2" square tubing in between I was using to check for clearance. I think the only reasonable solution is to put a pair of pusher fans on the front. H6 exhaust hits the trans crossmember on the driver's side. Almost bolts up flush to the head, back end of the cats probably has to go up about 1". Exhaust will go to the driver's side anyhow, so I'll just tweak the stock system for now to fit. Tidied up the 2002 wiring a bit more. Still a mess, but most of it seems to be needed for the engine, fans, cruise, etc.

I'd think there would be a way to tap into the stock power steering rack to operate some kind of valve to the rear. A simpler way would be to wire it into your turn signal stalk, switch it right and it opens a 12V DC hydraulic valve to steer the rear to the left. I'm not sure how you'd easily re center it when you're done. You'd probably want some kind of paint mark on something so you know it's straight. Maybe you'd be able to tell just by driving it down the road. I'm trying to think of the times when we've been on super narrow trails that are probably mainly traveled by ATVs. I'm not sure rear steer would have helped us navigate many of those. You guys seem to have more technical trails with big rocks and trees to avoid though, I could see it coming in handy.

This is the wiring we removed that seemed to be necessary to run the engine and cruise control and radiator fans with no trouble codes. Inside of car mostly free of wiring. This is the harness after we traced back a bunch of the plugs we weren't using and cut those wires out. Labeled the wires we will need to splice into the other car with pieces of red tape. Most of those are for the gauges and idiot lights. Wiring we took out of the car that we don't think we need, but I'll hang onto it for a while to be sure. I got the H6 out of the 02 donor sedan yesterday. The entire exhaust system is one piece, so it's pretty heavy. I was able to disconnect the power steering lines at the crossmember, so with luck those will hook up easily. Only thing I hadn't done when I checked the FSM for removal instructions was the torque converter bolts. Those are not as bad as I thought they'd be. I did unplug a few things and move the wiring out of the way for the ratchet. Only four of them and once they were broken loose I could thread them out with my fingers. Then the converter pilot and/or bellhousing dowels were stuck, but nothing a hammer can't fix. Today I'll start removing the H4 from the 99.

Made a decent resistor bank for the TCM. Used 47 ohm resistors, the solenoids measure 4 or 15 ohms, but I've read online that people who've done this swap have used much higher ohm resistors without problems, I will probably go higher still in the future as the 47ohm resistors get pretty warm. I'll probably get a screw terminal banks at that time as my soldering is not very good. Poked a few strands of each wire through the breadboard and bent them over to keep the wires from pulling out. We've been able to drive the car with the transmission completely unplugged (except VSS jumped across the plug) and everything seems to work fine except the cruise. Only transmission code is the neutral circuit low. Still either flashes or lights up steady the ATF temp light on the dash but no code. Speedo (and OBDII mph) doesn't register until you get up to about 20mph but then works all the time. So I started the diagnosis procedure for the neutral circuit low code. One of the first tests is to see if the harness is shorted to ground on that pin. It is grounded whether I have the toggle switch to the TCM in N or D. So I cut that wire near the ECU. No code with the toggle switch in N or D. Probably not the right way to do it, the FSM says that should be 5V in R or D/3/2/1, but the only code I'm getting is that O2 sensor. That even seems to be the case with the dash unplugged too. Noticed in one of the wiring diagrams for the cruise that one of the wires to the cruise module goes through the inhibitor switch. I have that all hotwired now so maybe that was making the cruise think it's in neutral. Cruise works now with that wire to the ECU cut, dash plugged in or not. Seemed like the main reason to have the dash plugged in was the alternator wouldn't charge without it and it would cause the fuel level code. The FSM showed one of the wires going through the battery idiot light. So I wired a resistor instead, alternator charges and no fuel level code (usually) with this: I guess I don't understand exactly how this works, wouldn't the battery idiot light come on when the alternator is charging? One of the last things I did before we pulled all the wiring out was to figure out the feeds for the various gauges and idiot lights. Debated putting the 02 instrument cluster in the 99 but physically it's surprisingly different and electrically it will probably be simpler to keep the 99 instrument cluster. So, again using the FSM, figured out the CEL/MIL, oil pressure idiot light, and temp sender (for gauge). The FSM seems to have the right wire colors but the pinouts for the instrument cluster are different than the actual gauges. Some of them were easy to confirm by testing for continuity on the well labeled circuit board to the pins on the top of the instrument cluster. Final confirmation was cutting them and then grounding the CEL/MIL and oil pressure to see them light up and putting a resistor between temp gauge and ground to see the needle move. Oil pressure switch is green/orange, MIL/CEL is red/white, and temp is pink/white. Also figured out which wire to cut to kill the tach but still read on the OBDII scanner, same with the speedo. The only other thing going through that super multiple junction that we're using is the main cruise switch, so wired around that and test drove the car again to make sure the cruise works. Now we've got all the wiring out of the car and working on paring it down. I'll put up some pictures of that soon. Once this swap is done I might make a separate mini thread with the basics of how to do the wiring. Someone suggested I get the car tuned once this is all done, should be able to clear some of these persistent but unimportant codes and make 10% more midrange torque for a few hundred bucks. So far I have not been able to find someone who can do that to the EZ30. Anybody know of a good tuning solution for these engines? I can see after spending two weeks already on this wiring, having to buy a whole running car, and not having an easy tuning solution why a lot of people who use these engines just use a standalone ECU.

Finally, what I've heard is the hardest part of making this swap work, the transmission control module (TCM). We figured the easiest way was to keep it and just trick it into thinking it's still connected to an auto trans (again, thanks to the rs25 thread). First thing I tried with the trans was to unplug the passenger side plug on the top of the trans (B11/T4). Car won't start. Plugged that back in and unplugged the driver side plug (B12/T3). Engine started but had a P0866 TCM Communication circuit high code, the fuel level code (probably because the VSS wires go through that plug so the speedo doesn't work), and the engine seemed down on power. Plugged that back in and unplugged one of the plugs from the TCM, got a P0866. Unplugging just the other connector to the TCM gives the P0866 and P1698. With either or both unplugged you can still drive the car but it seems to be very low on power, won't go over 2000RPM in drive, but seems faster in reverse. Only so hard you want to test that in the alley though. It was about at this point that I realized the 2002 FSM shows three plugs for the TCM and ours has only two. Three plugs appears to be for the VDC model. It does seem to show the right colors for the plugs at the trans. I downloaded the 2001 supplement for 6 cylinder which seems to show the right plugs and wire colors for our TCM, but the colors for the plugs at the trans are the wrong colors in the 2001 FSM. Car was built 10/01. Figured the easiest thing to start on would be the gear selector. There is a mechanical cable going from the shifter in the car to the trans. There is a wire plug going to the top of the trans known as the inhibitor switch that tells the TCM what gear you're in. This also lights up the reverse lights and connects the circuit for the starter if you're in park or neutral. So the first step is to splice the white/blue and white/green so that it will start no matter what. Next step was to wire in a three position switch so we could ground neutral or drive to the TCM. One position grounds the reverse pin of the TCM, the middle grounds nothing and causes a code, and the other position grounds the D pin. Took a bit to figure out to cut all the other gear position wires so the trans didn't think we were in say reverse and drive at the same time. Yes, this is semi posterior, keep in mind we're just trying to make the car fully driveable with no codes and nothing attached to the trans, eventually this will be wired to some kind of clutch and/or neutral switch and not this crudely. Plus, if you think this wiring is questionable, you haven't seen anything yet. So now we can drive the car with the passenger side unplugged from the trans. Still seems to be anemic in drive, won't go much over 2000RPM, but seems to keep slowly accelerating, but fast in reverse. First thing we did after unplugging the plug on the driver's side was to splice wires across it for the VSS. This made the speedo work, and we never got codes for the other speed sensors. I think at this point the OBDII port stopped working. We grounded the pin for ground at the harness and it started working again. How would you ever figure that out if you just had the harness and were trying to get it to work in a different car? Various solenoid codes started coming up, and we started just jamming resistors between the sockets of those pins to duplicate the resistance of those solenoids. That basically worked but some of them started going up in smoke. Fortunately I had some appropriate resistance 1W and 10W resistors we were able to put in place of the main two shift solenoids. Another small one smoked and all we had were 0.25W resistors, so I just took about a dozen of about 12x the resistance of the solenoid and wrapped them all together. These eventually discolored but seemed to still have the same resistance we started with. At least once we were able to drive it without any transmission codes (switch in N or D, didn't seem to matter). Still anemic in drive but quick in reverse. We looked up the ratios in the FSM to find that reverse was geared taller than first. So maybe it will only go to 2000RPM but that is faster in reverse? Tried it again and I got over 2500RPM in reverse (which is plenty fast in the alley). Maybe without the electronics, the cable manually shifts it through 1,2,3,4. Tried it in first, still won't go much over 2000RPM. Keep in mind this is with everything unplugged from the trans. So there is no way the TCM or ECU knows what gear it's in, or even if it's in gear, except for that switch I wired in. With the driver's side plugged in, got over 3000RPM in drive pretty quickly. Finally it dawned on us that it must be mechanically in third or fourth and the solenoids are downshifting it. Unplugged the driver's side at the trans again and put our resistors back in to the harness side. We figured out that the 1 and 2 shift solenoids were hot when the switch is in D (to the TCM) and wired those to 12V with the ignition on. Now it seems to accelerate much better, but might be in second based on RPM/mph and seat of the pants. Here is that masterpiece of electrical engineering: FSM says the ATF temp sensor should be between 275 and 375 ohms, so we put a 330 ohm resistor in the harness plug. Never got an ATF temp code, but the ATF temp light comes on (flashes) in the dash. Sensor reads 600o through the harness plug, so we tried a few around there, and a 220o, still no code but light on the dash kept flashing. Reads about 3.5k ohm cold. Speedo has stopped working, wires for that have probably come loose. I'm going to get a breadboard and some 10W resistors to wire close to the TCM to get rid of that mess. Need to get a solid connection on the VSS too, that still isn't working but shows continuity on my DMM. So I think my main conundrum is that fuel level A code, and how to get rid of it without the dash / instrument panel wiring. Anybody know how to do that?

I still can't quite figure out the fuel level circuit. The fuel level sender(s) are definitely through a blue plug going to the back with about a dozen wires (I've cut all but three). If you unplug it the fuel gauge reads empty and the code is on. I can wire those through resistors to ground to get the fuel gauge to read over half a tank, but the code still comes on. After I cut the fuel level wire (according to the manual) at the ECU that code does not come up with or without the connector unplugged. Problem solved you say. This is all with the dash harness plugged into the interior fuse block. If you unplug either of those dash harness plugs from the fuse block, the gauges don't come on and you get the code. Only after many hours of messing with this did I look up the code in the FSM to find that the first troubleshooting step basically says if the speedo/tach aren't working, you'll get the code. So I don't know of a good way around that. Certainly don't have room to stuff the 02 instrument cluster in the 99 somewhere just to keep one code from coming up. The wire that goes to the ECU that's supposedly for fuel level did read 3V before I cut it (stripped a little insulation off). So we wired two resistors between 5V and ground so that in between them was 3V and spliced that to the ECU. Still fuel level code comes up with the dash unplugged. I could definitely use some help here. On the plus side I figured out the fuel temp circuit (P0183), evap (P0447), and code P1400. Just started cutting wires leading to the back of the car. For the fuel temp circuit I just had to run a 3.5k resistor between the red/light blue and black/yellow wires. The wires for the other two codes were constant 12V from the rear, even with the ignition off. So I found a constant 12V (should eventually try to find something switched so it doesn't drain the battery). By accidentally touching it to ground and blowing the fuse found out it's for the clock / interior lights. First wired that through a 10 ohm resistor to the two wires for the other codes. Green/black for P1400, brown/yellow for P0447. Smoked that resistor pretty quick. Then put in a 3.9k resistor, didn't smoke, no codes. At this point the only thing going to the back is the 8 wire plug for the fuel pump, which actually looks the same as the one in the 99. I plan on just running a new fuel pump wire anyhow, the one in the 99 is pretty small gauge and corroded. So still have to sort out which of those wires goes to the fuel pump. I had unplugged over half the connections to the underhood fuse block when we were on our unplugging spree the other day. Had to plug most of them back in to get the alternator back to charging 14.5V. If you unplug one of them it goes to 15.5V! Before we started on the rest of this, I drove it around the block. The speedo only registered over about 30mph, but then it and the cruise control worked. We messed with the P0051 H02S heater control circuit low code. Figure if nothing else it would be nice to get the check engine light off so if it came on we'd know we have a new code. This appears to be the driver's side O2 sensor heater, which has no continuity between the two adjacent pins (pass side OK). Tried putting in several different resistors but can't get rid of the code. Seemed like only the passenger side fan would come on, so I messed with that. Got a temp sensor so I could plug it in and heat it up to get the fans to come on. Sort of worked, but it would cool back off quickly, especially with the fans on. The harness end has +5V on one side of the pair of pins. The third pin gets 10V from the harness and is 1k ohms to ground through the sensor. I'm just going to start using a lowercase o for ohms. The temp sensor across the two pins is about: 3k ohms = 55F 1k ohms = 109F 120o = 210F 47o = 210F So I left the 47o resistor in, which made the ECU try to turn the fans on. Each fan has four pins, two hot and two ground. One of the ground pins is always grounded, although I think the resistance was high (18o?). The other one gets grounded by the fan relay on the firewall, but that was high resistance, about 18o. The two hot leads are switched on by relays main 1 and main 2 (or sub 1 and sub 2). There is also a 30A fuse for each fan, the one for the main fan was blown so I replaced that. Main fan is driver's side, sub fan is passenger side. Relays all seemed good, ground pins are getting grounded (more or less), hot pins are 12V. What's strange is that unplugging the temp sensor will cause the fan to run on low, high, and seemingly higher than normal and cycle between those for a while. Driver's side never works, so I assume that motor is bad. When we wire this up to the fans in the 99 we'll make sure the ground is low resistance. Plan on just using the fans in the 99 and this wiring.