redskin

EA-81T's sure are rare, there are only 2 in Australia that l know about, mine and another in Queensland, (also a board member), both were converted from standard n/a Brumby's. l got my engine from the ultralight crowd down here, (these guy's always have something interesting hiding in the back of the shed), and it is bolted to a 4 speed d/r gearbox although l do have a 5 speed RX box to replace it with in the near future. The most difficult part of the conversion was lack of information, tried everywhere l could think of and zip around, not even a clear picture of one, thankfully being able to confirm any issues on usmb and the ausubaru forums made the job almost easy as the wealth of knowledge available more than made up for the lack of written stuff and thankfully stopped me spending my day doing this

Without question, EA-81.

Both gearboxes, (3.7 & 3.9), were available in Australia for the ea-81's, your Brumby should be 3.7, as this was standard for an 89 Brumby. On the car you bought, since the guy told you the gearbox had been changed to a different type from the diff, assume they are a miss matched set and yes, damage will result from driving the car this way. If it's a 3.9 g'box, it needs a 3.9 diff, and if a 3.7, ditto.

Correction, it's back and running, questions can be posted and answers given.

Not gone, just in the process of getting a new web supplier, old one went belly-up recently, so ausubaru/backyard boys should be back real soon, or so the note they have posted sez.

another way to remove the clip is by using your T shirt, or a piece of rag, you pull the rag up between the door trim and the handle and start up a rocking motion, the rag catches the spring ends and removes it from the handle, cheap and effective.

l have ea-82 seats in my 89 Brat/Brumby, wasn't very hard to fit them but you will have to ditch the 82 rails and reuse the 81 types. lf you would like to know how it's done, go to the ausubaru site, look in the tech manual, (under conversions, l think), and l have written an article explaining how this is done from start to finish or supply your e-mail address and l will send you photo's.

This has happened to me a couple of times, , bloody annoying isn't it. The reason it happens is because there is an 'o' ring at the end of the cylinder which makes the whole oil pump removing thing a pain in the arse. The only way l have gotten around this potential disaster is to crack the cylinder in it's bore and remove it in 2 pieces, good luck.

Looks great Ross, l too am going the ea-81t route with my brumby and am close to fire up stage having done most of the hard work, thankfully my motor didn't need rebuilding but it's still a mission converting a standard car from n/a to turbo, not to mention expensive, esp. in Australia, so good luck with your project, the pictures look very impressive.

Did you check the push rods? was one of your tappets loose? if so check these as they do bend.

Hi, l have replaced a few dash's over the years and can offer some tips, get some masking tape and pen, when disconnecting wires from switches, pop some tape on the wires and mark them to identify them. You also don't have to remove the heater panel, just remove the retaining screws, pull it out just enough to tilt it and then slide it back inside the dash and let it hang in there. The only tricky one is the air vent located near the top of the dash, it has a wire and retaining clip, when refitting the dash, do this one first as access to this will be blocked by the heater panel when fitted. Oh, and as Edrach mentioned it's a day job the first time, good luck.

guy's, a twin exhaust port motor runs twin carbs, standard manifold is of no use. Hughy is spending alot of money trying to rebuild it so please, only relevant answers.

Ron, did you use sealant when installing the gasket? It may well be loose bolts if you didn't tighten them to much as the alloy of the block will expand as the engine heats up and if these bolts are loose they can become more loose due to the different expansion rates, you should be torqueing these down to factory specs. You can also buy gasket paper in different thicknesses from your local auto shop so make your own gasket by tracing and cutting, good luck.

sure sounds like an oil pump problem, l would be looking at this.

No, they also have a different spline count, read your post on clutch plate for more detailed explanation. Pete.

Doc, you can fit this to your car it's straightforward, but unless you are planning to change the gearbox also, not adviseable as the bigger clutch is a 21 splined unit as opposed to the smaller clutch, (19, l think), so your standard box will not mate up to your engine if you do fit the bigger unit. If you are still unsure, count the number of splines inside the clutch plate and then on the gearbox input shaft.

Hey Doc, what you have is the correct seals to do the job, the rear is bigger than the front and for the reason Northwet mentions so you are right to proceed with the upcomming job, have fun.

l am about to begin a conversion on my 89 Brat from N/a to turbocharged using an import motor, (EA-81T), and have a question. ls the fuel tank on a standard Brat the same as a turbo model and do they also share the same fuel pump, Thanks.

thanks heaps McBrat, this is more than l'd hoped for. the model l was thinking of was the EA-81, didn't know of the GSR, was this also a twin-carb/port engine? l will look forward to your pic's when you have time to post them. thanks again, Pete.

Does anybody have any information regarding the Gen 1 RX they would like to share or alternatively can l be pointed in the direction of where l can find out, what publications etc. as l find no mention of them anywhere in the books l have, also could somebody post a photo. Thanks in advance.

Have you checked the disc calipers for sticking or tight pistons, this will cause brake drag, going by your list you have changed everything else but l don't see this mentioned.

All the Brat/Brumbies delivered to Australia were 4wd, 4 speed dual range, they never came with a 5 speed, that was done later using L series 5 speed gearboxes usually by their owners.

Yep, we Aussies are everywhere Ron,

the idle screw does face the front and is situated on the drivers side of the carb, long screw between carb body and cable pulley but be sure to check your engine tune first, (timing, etc), before adjusting this as bad tune will also affect your idle.

It lives behind the dashboard