redskin

l might be mistaken guys but this is starting to look like the Ausubaru forum

did ea-71's run a cat? l was under the impression they started fitting these with the ea-81, or am l wrong ? Perhaps it's an auto choke problem, does this continue after the car is heated up or only first start-up then disappear, fuel pumps are also a problem, if it's on it's way out they tend to play-up, anyway, l hope this helps. Brats don't belong in garages.

Both of the manifolds are stock Subaru items, one is correct for an EA-81 engine and is unaltered, it bolts down like the original but has 2 base plates cast for carbies as compared to 1 on the standard manifold. The other is an EA-71 type from the mid 70's that an engineer mate of mine has modified to fit an EA-81 engine and it has been dooing this quite well. Don't know about making one from 2, l'm an engineer and that sounds like alot of work, but as we all know anythings possible. A fellow down here has a twin weber set-up on his, food for thought!

Yep they sure did make twin carb manifolds for both ea-71 & 81's that used the hitachi carb, l know this for sure because my brumby has them fitted and mine is an original 81 setup, not a ea-71 type modified. They don't seem to be rare down here as many have them fitted but from what l can tell talking to most is that their cars are running a modified 71 type. mine is a straight bolt on type, no mods needed because it is correct for my motor, l also have a modified 71 type to fit an 81 on a spare motor in my shed. l'm rather surprised these are so difficult to get in the states but fairs fair l guess as we did not get turbo's. As for performance, they out-perform a single weber by a long way.

or welsh plugs

l had exactly the same problem with my Brumby except it would stop dead for 5-10 mins then fire up as though nothing was wrong, it nearly drove me nuts until l found it to be an intermittant fault with the electromagnetic fuel pump. This also happened to my sisters MY wagon, she had it looked at by just about everybody Subaru in Melbourne without success, then she bought it to me, ( didn't want to bother me, poor dear), l replaced her electromagnetic pump and presto, back to normal. This is not a rare problem and it pays to keep a spare one of these on hand as they do fail. l hope your problem turns out to be this easy.

I had a similar problem with my Brat for a while, found it to be a loose rear shock on the bottom mount, good luck.

Wow, is it really that hard to get bits in the states? here in Aus parts for older models are readily available from dealers including all the body panels, yep, even roof skins. l recently rebuilt my Brumby from the ground up and replaced enough parts to empty out the bank account, (and make the wife nervous, ), These included all the body clips, inside and out, windscreen and rubber, numerous mechanical bits, internal dash parts and anything else that was suss, the total rebuild price including paint was about $5000 Aus,and l did all the work myself, a little pricey perhaps but for my money l now have a near new car. About the only bits that are unavailable are early turbo bits as they were not released in this country. Don't really know how this would help you other than to say your dealers are full of crap if thats their stand on older parts, they must be geared to forcing people into new cars, hope this helps. Pete.

im lookin for a brumby but cant find one any help would be great, Quote. Not likely to either, those who know what these little Jems can do, wont part with them, so be prepared for a long wait. Yes dear, we can sell the children, the Brumby needs a new ...................

[as far as i know the brats/brumbies didn't come out with power steering (well mine doesn't have it and ive never seen one with it) Hate to disagree with you but they did, but make sure before attempting to fit this that your heads are drilled to accept the pulley mount.

l have replaced the stock rubber with this type of bush on my Brat and haven't stopped grinning yet, boy does it make a difference, the ute feels rock solid on the road and is far more responsive, the only bushes l could not get are the steering rack mounting rubbers as they are not available down here. Are they available in the states? lf so can anybody tell me who to contact as these are very high on my to do list.

Me please, l would love to convert my Brat to a/c. My address is redskin@tpg.com.au many thanks, Pete.

Quite a few of us in Port Macquarie, some nice rigs to.

The Brat in Australia is called a Brumby. an Aboriginal word meaning wild horse.

Sub hubs run 6207 bearings, funny that, same as my chief gearbox. Redskin.

Try Clive at Taree Auto Wreckers, he has some old bars and shoukd have something to fit. Redskin :cool:

How many do you want? Postage from Aus is 7 days and is used ok. Redskin

You've won me, as the owner of 3 Lemans Guzzi's, Mk1, 2, 3, l am fully aware of the Brembo system and consider them to be the best braking system ever fitted to motorcycles, but i never knew Subaru used them, perhaps l was a little hasty, might have to rethink, thanks. Redskin. 89 Twin port Brat 84 Brat worker Mk. 1,2, and 3 Lemans Guzzi 1947 Indian Chief 1942 Indian 841 shaft drive 1930 Indian 101 1928 Scout.

Great looking Brat, but the question that begs to be asked, what's hiding behind those wheels? Redskin

I Spoke with the mechanic who actually does these conversions on the number supplied and he claims the difficulty is stopping at all. As l personally have never seen this conversion other than in pictures, (like most of us), l don't know if brake fade is the problem, all l was told was that these cars have alot of trouble stopping, that is good enough for me as he is one of the few people that would know for sure. As also mentioned custom brakes are available but they run out at $1500.00, to rich for my hard earned cash, as for standard rear discs, l got mine in New Zealand. So in closing, if you need to know more, l have listed the number to call, they are the people with all the answers, l'm just passing on what l was told. Redskin.

I have been toying with the idea of fitting my Brat with a WRX powerplant so figured do some research on the pro's and cons of doing this. My first step was to talk with the people in Melbourne who are actually offering this conversion and upon doing this very quickly changed my mind. This is what l was told, Yes we have done Quite a few of these, and yes all the things you have heard are true, there is no real problem getting everything to fit BUT, yep there's always a but, most of the conversions done to date have one MAJOR PROBLEM, they wont stop, in fact the only way to guarantee stopping these cars is to aim them at a wall or a big tree. As we never saw any of the early turbo's, rear disc brakes are non existant in this country, a fact l can confirm as most of the wreckers you ask for them tell you to go away, (read, piss off), the only cars imported to Aus with rear disc's l'm told were the Vortex which also is rare. There is a person in Queensland making oversize rear discs and offering a set-up but nobody has been able to come up with a compensator that works so these tend to lock up. With all this in mind and said, l expect an avalanche of, shut up fool, mine work fine, etc, etc, but please, don't shoot the messenger, ring melbourne 94897826 and ask the people offering this conversion, the impression l got was they consider these cars dangerous. Sorry to burst the bubble. Redskin :-\

Is anybody out there running with twin webers and if so what was involved in setting this up as all this talk about webers recently on this forum is bringing my nervous twitch back! I am currently running twin hitachi's so manifold is not a problem but how much linkage work is involved, can anybody please help. Redskin.

Please read Front/Rear main seals by Mendodave on Page 1 for additional information. Redskin.

I agree with Ross's comments about rounding off or chamfering the edges of the shoes, also l have not seen any mention of the rear drums being machined, the thing with cast iron is that it's soft, and as we all know brakes get pretty hot and with this drums can go out of round, and more likely if one tends to jump on the pedal, (not that l suspect you of this), as for the fronts, a classic master cylinder problem, it's either air or your master is due for a rebuild. Redskin.

Hello James, what l mean by sleeving the pulley is to set the pulley up in a lathe and machine the length of the Boss to remove the wear marks, then turn up a ring, the outside diameter to the original size of the boss and the inside diameter 1 thousandth of an inch under the size your boss has been machined to. Next step is to heat the ring in an oven to expand it and freeze the pulley to shrink it and then press the ring on to the pulley boss to gain an interference fit and return your pulley back to as new and there you have it. This operation is not as difficult as it sounds and guaranteed to work. Any engineering shop can handle this type of proceedure, it's usually given to the apprentice to do as it's very a basic machining job. If you need anymore info please contact me at redskin@dodo.com.au and l will explain in more detail. P.S. My occupation is automotive engineer, l work at Tafe, (trade school) teaching apprentices, this is the type of exercise l would give to my first years as an exercise in meeting diameters. Hope this helps. Redskin