brus brother

So this all started hunting down oil collecting in the recesses on the top of the engine passenger side. Initially thought it was PS fluid as reservoir was dropping regularly. Changed PS pump so no more pink fluid but now just good ole crude. Doesn't appear to be the oil pressure sensor beneath the alternator. Leak is further posterior. Is it possible/usual that HGs will leak to the top?

done wasted way too much time trying to fiddle around and wiggle that cover into place. removed throttle body and 2 minutes later twas done. managed not to break any connectors. but my oh my is that throttle body in need of some love. suggest seafoam treatment? or some other voodoo?

yup, access cover to the torque converter bolts. Located below the throttle body to the passenger side. don't know how it came out since it doesn't appear I will be able to reinsert it without removing the throttle body. I am determined to now drive this car till the wheels fall off as at 200K miles it has too many issues. Every time I touch an electrical connector I am afraid that something will break due to age and brittleness. If I remove the throttle body, do I need to replace that gasket and/or use any sealant when reattaching? Is there any hazard in leaving the cover safely stored in the glove box?

here's the other view:

hunting around for source of oil leak on the top passenger side of my 05 Outback 2.5 non turbo auto and came across this little hard plastic ?cover plate wedged in towards the rear/side of the engine. it's tight and dark down there and can't figure out where it originated or if it is even necessary. going to hunt up a mirror to try and see a home for this plate. can only upload 2 mb so I will post again with the other view.

Can you get a diagram of the internal "gusset"? I am guessing that that part just snaps into place and covers the access to the screw that secures the exterior gusset (assisted by the retentive clip). Probably no glue involved but you can evaluate after removing the screw. Pry the internal gusset off with a trim removal tool to gain access to the screw.

found it LINK

Does anyone have the stepwise flow diagram in diagnosing the P2098 for Subaru Outback 05 Auto 2.5 non turbo?

there are 5 sensors total (2AF precat, 2 O2 sensors, one on each front cat, and one O2 sensor on the rear cat) there is a small exhaust leak at the joint where the passenger cat (bank 1) joins the driver cat (bank 2) and before the rear cat. I am just curious if this could be the culprit since while not audible, if I plug the exhaust and push air back up with a shop vac, I can see air bubbles if I spray water on the joint. If this is indeed the location of the cause of the P2098, why would this read as a bank 2 error?

3Pin the code I am getting is P2098

05 Outback 200K miles OK so I have had the P2098 for the past few months and now I am noticing a serious oil leak. I will crawl under the car tomorrow and try and see if I can track down the leak but in the meanwhile, is the valve cover leak capable of producing a vacuum leak and pesky P2098?

please delete

snow tires

Got a new notice regarding airbag recalls. Vehicles affected... certain Legacy and Outback 2003-2014, 2003-2006 Baja, 2009-2013 Forester, 2004-2011 Impreza and 2004-2014 WRX (including STI) vehicles equipped with a non-desiccated Takata-sourced passenger-side frontal air bag containing the propellant Phase Stabilized Ammonium Nitrate I received notice for my 05 OB today and after speaking with dealer discovered my 08 OB is also covered. I had already had both vehicles service for the initial recall so while I couldn't get a clear response, apparently this is in addition and may relate to what was used for the initial replacement.

reviving this dusty old post. I got the p2098 on my 05 auto outback. any update on this old problem?

I can't remember what type of transmitter I was programming (could have been a garage door opener, radio/phone pairing or remote starter for all I remember) but is it possible that the key fobs only store a certain limited number of codes, after which you need to clear the stored codes before programming a new code?

That second line of text appears the same in both images. Question remains if the "new" plugs show any other telltale signs of those noted as counterfeit. Also I made a jpg of the text in the first image and without mentioning anything did a reverse image search on Google and the response came back with reference to NGK. LINK On that same search page there is a customer service number you could always contact. You could just say you found them on a shelf and want to identify them.

I phone 6... geesh, I'm on a Smith Corona typewriter ;-) but here is a LINK that describes how those with white fruit phones can do a reverse Google image search. Fingers crossed that you didn't get farked again. I missed the reference to the youtube video issue of color difference of the plugs.

Hey Paul Right click on your photo and select "search google for image". Obviously your pic shows up but all other references to similar images (text) are Japanese related. You might still be OK but there's no guarantee that Chinese can't print using Japanese text and you'd never catch them as easily as with your original "Genuine Rarts" image above.

to your question... not sure but it does look like a broken weld. Seems structural but as a temporary fix to quiet things down try high heat furnace caulk. It's about $9 a tube at Home Depot. LINK or one for $12 I used at Lowes LINK Clean it as best as you can and apply caulk, perhaps embedding fiberglass cloth into the repair?

I'm guessing I could figure out the o-rings, gaskets, and retaining clips but what are the two items circled? Guide pins??

No yards nearby and could end up with another failure in the near future. I'll check dealer for rebuild kit. style changed in 04. Steering is still solid on mine. Let me know if the Grease Gods are good to you this time around. What brand are you buying? Anyone have a link to FSM?

It's not the o-ring on the top of the pump. That was replaced two years ago. Can't quite see the leak. Reservoir was near empty and the top of the engine had fluid pooling in recesses behind the pump. If I don't repair/reseal, is there a decent aftermarket to consider? Genuine is pricey. Also, anyone have a link to FS manual?

hey Paul. I'm awake. need a ride? Jim