brus brother

Does anyone have the stepwise flow diagram in diagnosing the P2098 for Subaru Outback 05 Auto 2.5 non turbo?

there are 5 sensors total (2AF precat, 2 O2 sensors, one on each front cat, and one O2 sensor on the rear cat) there is a small exhaust leak at the joint where the passenger cat (bank 1) joins the driver cat (bank 2) and before the rear cat. I am just curious if this could be the culprit since while not audible, if I plug the exhaust and push air back up with a shop vac, I can see air bubbles if I spray water on the joint. If this is indeed the location of the cause of the P2098, why would this read as a bank 2 error?

3Pin the code I am getting is P2098

05 Outback 200K miles OK so I have had the P2098 for the past few months and now I am noticing a serious oil leak. I will crawl under the car tomorrow and try and see if I can track down the leak but in the meanwhile, is the valve cover leak capable of producing a vacuum leak and pesky P2098?

please delete

snow tires

Got a new notice regarding airbag recalls. Vehicles affected... certain Legacy and Outback 2003-2014, 2003-2006 Baja, 2009-2013 Forester, 2004-2011 Impreza and 2004-2014 WRX (including STI) vehicles equipped with a non-desiccated Takata-sourced passenger-side frontal air bag containing the propellant Phase Stabilized Ammonium Nitrate I received notice for my 05 OB today and after speaking with dealer discovered my 08 OB is also covered. I had already had both vehicles service for the initial recall so while I couldn't get a clear response, apparently this is in addition and may relate to what was used for the initial replacement.

reviving this dusty old post. I got the p2098 on my 05 auto outback. any update on this old problem?

I can't remember what type of transmitter I was programming (could have been a garage door opener, radio/phone pairing or remote starter for all I remember) but is it possible that the key fobs only store a certain limited number of codes, after which you need to clear the stored codes before programming a new code?

That second line of text appears the same in both images. Question remains if the "new" plugs show any other telltale signs of those noted as counterfeit. Also I made a jpg of the text in the first image and without mentioning anything did a reverse image search on Google and the response came back with reference to NGK. LINK On that same search page there is a customer service number you could always contact. You could just say you found them on a shelf and want to identify them.

I phone 6... geesh, I'm on a Smith Corona typewriter ;-) but here is a LINK that describes how those with white fruit phones can do a reverse Google image search. Fingers crossed that you didn't get farked again. I missed the reference to the youtube video issue of color difference of the plugs.

Hey Paul Right click on your photo and select "search google for image". Obviously your pic shows up but all other references to similar images (text) are Japanese related. You might still be OK but there's no guarantee that Chinese can't print using Japanese text and you'd never catch them as easily as with your original "Genuine Rarts" image above.

to your question... not sure but it does look like a broken weld. Seems structural but as a temporary fix to quiet things down try high heat furnace caulk. It's about $9 a tube at Home Depot. LINK or one for $12 I used at Lowes LINK Clean it as best as you can and apply caulk, perhaps embedding fiberglass cloth into the repair?

I'm guessing I could figure out the o-rings, gaskets, and retaining clips but what are the two items circled? Guide pins??

No yards nearby and could end up with another failure in the near future. I'll check dealer for rebuild kit. style changed in 04. Steering is still solid on mine. Let me know if the Grease Gods are good to you this time around. What brand are you buying? Anyone have a link to FSM?

It's not the o-ring on the top of the pump. That was replaced two years ago. Can't quite see the leak. Reservoir was near empty and the top of the engine had fluid pooling in recesses behind the pump. If I don't repair/reseal, is there a decent aftermarket to consider? Genuine is pricey. Also, anyone have a link to FS manual?

hey Paul. I'm awake. need a ride? Jim

LINK Odd, that while I see a relay for the 99 Forester, the above link doesn't show it as a part for the 99 Outback. Was there a relay on the parts car? Trouble diagnosing when mixing parts from different model years. You might want to call a dealership and ask them by VIN if there is a relay for your car or if they can send you their parts schematic for the system.

"and it is "brake" "break" is to break something, or take a break.." Problem solved?

Well, I guess that was his problem all along?

is there resistance when you push the button? if it is the same style as the one pictured in the yt video seems like the spring may either be broken or getting stuck?

is there a button on the lever? is it stuck? did you try wiggling it (professional term)? tighten the button? LINK guy made home made button out of old knob LINK guy fabricates button for sale but you might get an idea of how these work

yup, I just learned to tap the climate control face when it occurs. my understanding, grounding issue where it makes contact (at least on my 05). too lazy to tear into it. as far as the airbag code, did you verify that the Mercedes dealer checked for airbag code?? here's a link for comparison LINK of "best of" scanners for ABS/SRS I don't own one of these. I think I got a tech to read the code for me on one of my trips to dealership when I had the problem. I use a cheap $20 OBDII scanner for my check engine light (always friggin P0420) to clear the code and get me passed inspection but you can get autozone to read codes for free. just waste of time driving there AND more importantly, they usually won't clear codes. Maybe one of the "specialists" on the forum will chime in for a recommendation.

I was curious and just trying to help you out here. A quick call to Autozone in Seaside, Calif. confirmed that they don't check airbag codes, just check engine light (CEL). That was my experience here on the east coast as well. I guess they don't want any liability of you lap dancing with your front grill if the airbags fail ;-) You might want to verify what Mercedes did for you but as for Autozone... seems not too much. If you do a lot of your own work, a ~$100 scanner with ABS/SRS ability will be of use. Dealerships, especially Mercedes can do an airbag scan but generally, not for free.

I once had an issue where someone in the rear seat stuck their foot under the driver's seat and dislodged the connector. Not sure why it would be so susceptible. Try re-seating the connectors? Odd that there are no codes? Who read the codes? There are special code ABS/SRS readers for airbag info, different than then standard OBDII readers.