brus brother

sounds about right

ok no better than car jack but can rustle one up about 20 minutes north of here. I'll keep an ear out.

Friendly face here in CT if you get stuck. Near exit 44 Merritt Pkway. Not far from Exit 19 Rte 95. I'll PM telephone.

What is the issue with Subaru CVTs? is it brand specific? Subie tech told me they are beginning to age out and showing their weaknesses. Is it something to still be wary of and if not, after what year did they improve?

200K miles andin addition to leaking VC gasket, a variety of issues from shock top mounts, cv joints, P0420, leaking HGs (radio works fine) are pushing me towards retiring the car. It is our second car but whenever I drive it I leave a puddle of oil. Subie tech suggested a complete HG and reseal but that starts to outspend the value of the car. Severe leaking from drivers VC gasket. Some HG leak on top of passenger side puddling in recesses (not from the PS pump). Just replacing the driver VC gasket might slow the leak (quoted $60 one side or $100 labor both sides) but question is would it be reasonable while in there to retorque or even overtighten the head bolts or am I just looking for trouble?

So the fuel pump continues to operate even if the sending unit variable resistor "faults"? Looks like the sending unit can be purchased separately LINK ??

So it appears on the 08 OB the fuel pump is integrated with the sending unit?? If that is the case, under the circumstances, is the pump is still operative(?) just a failing sensor? Dads hate to be responsible for daughter being stranded waiting for Darrell Darrell and Darrell Brothers Towing to rescue her.

12 year old vehicle.

2008 Outback 115K miles. Daughter was driving car and noticed that the gauge read 7/8 then next noticed it had dropped to 1/2 then after restarting the car it was back to 7/8. Thoughts?

Love these first time posters who appear with their hair on fire asking for help and disappear just as quickly as they appeared without even a "so long fellas". Hope he isn't stuck on the side of the road waiting for a flatbed tow. ;-)

Like GD said. I will add that after you reconnect the battery, turn the key to the on position and wait for all the gauges to run and then start the car without stepping on the gas and let it idle. The computer will need to "relearn" your car and it may take a few minutes at idle for things to smooth out. GD's suggestion to buy an inexpensive scan tool is a good idea going forward. Not only can you use it to clear codes but even the most basic scan tool will allow you to "read" codes when the check engine light comes on. If you want peace of mind without following any of the above suggestions, take you car to Advance Auto or Autozone. Here on the east coast they will scan and read your codes free of charge. If it comes back as a "loose gas cap" code (P0457), then just keep driving and the light show will go away by itself.

is the system run by vacuum? once on my old 91 Loyale a hose had come undone rendering selector inoperable. simple fix for me. YMMV

spoke too soon. misfire and code returned. pulled plug and sure enough, 'twas oil on the tube and not condensation. will need to change VC gaskets and grommets?

thanks for the tip GD. I assume you apply it to the outer lip of the plug wire as shown below at the widest point of contour? Or do you slather it over everything from the front bumper back to the A pillar;-)?

ok got 1 and 3 off. 3 had moisture down around the wire tube. Dried it off and put back together. Is there anything I can spray/lather on the boots to prevent the moisture from seeping down along the tube?

08 OB with 105K. I get P0303 when car has been sitting in garage and humidity is off the charts. Runs like crap then after sitting out in the sun (drying out) engine smooths out and code disappears after drive cycles. Wires or coil?

any chance you have a split cv boot leaking grease? when that splatters around, it smells pretty bad.

... not me. Geezers stay home in Covid days. Past three weeks, replaced the pool filter and changed 300 lbs of sand, re-grouted the pool wall tile (day spent leaning over the edge), reset stones in front pathway, pressure washed pool deck and all walkways, cut down six large trees overhanging the pool, trenched some new drainage pipe, re-stacked stone wall... I have friends and do eat lunch, but what is this golf game you speak of? I'll change the VC gaskets and save the environment and drive that sucker till the wheels fall off.

Interesting to note that the trany fix in a bottle for delayed engagement seems to work out nicely. Posted here for many years. Also SOA offers their fix in a bottle for external HG leaks. Not saying your statement is incorrect but there do seem some snake oils that actually have some merit.

Alright then I'll verify before using magic goop in a bottle. I know the HGs are leaking (it is a Subaru after all) specifically on the passenger top side where that channel runs across, (not the sensors as I had hoped) and for sure the driver VC gasket so hey wouldn't be surprised if the oil pan gasket might be a contributor to the party. Just need to clean up my act or start renting the car out to seal driveways.

Car not really worth much at this point 05 OB 200K miles. P0420, needing HGs and TB. Wonky climate control. Body is in great shape and I barely drive it as our second car. Anyway, the driver side VC gasket is leaking and will be addressed but there is a good size drip from the rear engine seal that I am hoping I can use a bottle fix. Anyone have any experience with Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer? Am I just looking for more trouble? Just getting embarrassing leaving an oily mess when I park the car in friend's driveways.

Ido a name or as in I do Subaru? I was just watching an episode of Fauda on Netflix and noticed a Subaru.

Well actually the hard part is getting the damn bolt out that fits in the groove. They rust inside the knuckle and then the fun begins.

whoah, did you say pop the ball joint out and no big deal in the same sentence?? Not sure about the op in Italy but here in the northeast rust belt, that ball joint is usually rust welded in place.