brus brother

do you have the overhead console by the rear view mirror? there was just a write up on how to re-solder connections. check underseat connections.

wish I lived closer!

cornering sound might lend towards bearing. more when turning to one direction than another? when you are travelling straight if you turn the wheel side to side does the sound change? always indicate year and model in postings as there is oftentimes known model specific issues (i.e. Forrester right rear wheel bearings)

Call up your local Subaru dealership and ask them to match the online price mentioned by idosubaru. MOST dealerships now have online divisions in their parts departments. They all get their inventory from SOA. At the very least, they might allow you to return the old one for the core charge since they all get sent back to Subaru of America.

The variable might just be Tony Soprano's hot temper Go sit in a few subies at your local dealer and check the temperature readings. If they are more in line with your app (or even each other +/-) and markedly different as compared to yours then there is something amiss with your sensor. That would be the scientificological approach as I understand it from reading Roller Derby Monthly magazine...

common things occur commonly

https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/19053-05-06-09-how-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.html perhaps this should be stickied

yup there is talk of damage to the cable or rust at the interface with the hub

hub

If you are questioning the one axle, did you return your old cv axles?? reboot the better of them and replace the one you are in doubt of (new one not rebuilt) Do the code readers tell you which corner the issue is located at?

@Tony Soprano perhaps elevated temperature results from being a hot head? ;-)

Notwithstanding grandpa's position, pitch a bitch with SOA and they will change the sensor under warranty if it is that inaccurate. They replaced my inaccurate clock under warranty even though I could have relied on the sun's position to approximate time. Hopefully they won't muck up something else while replacing it ;-)

Not local. Called last night to confirm the Missoula store operates like Autozone here in CT. They are able to test the alternator on the car and read the CEL codes while you are there as well. Let us know what Ashley comes up with AND your year and model.

or this?

I'm not sure if Dude's suggestion will fix your problem. Instead of throwing parts at the car (knock sensor, new tires, window tint) might be better off having a FREE alternator test done at your local Autozone parts store in Missoula. Speak with Ashley. She opens tomorrow and will gladly test your alternator. They can also check to see if you have any stored or pending codes. The next question is year of your car and how to proceed if alternator is crapping out. Some say stay away from aftermarket ones and go for a rebuilt original.

Have a store like Autozone nearby to check the alternator?

sounds like a grounding issue. something backfeeding. take out both brake bulbs and see if it still happens. had you changed bulbs recently check fuses for corrosion?

steve. if you want a second set of eyes on the project, please post or send me a high res picture of both sides of the board. I can forward to a buddy for a quick look (he designs and builds pc boards)

Just got a text answer from a subie tech who said code should reset itself. Also check out https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/42574-2006-obw-airbag-light-my-fix-1.html post #80 they got SOA to pay for repair I'm only up to page 9 but thought I'd give you some reading while you wait for others to chime in. There are many excellent photo write ups. Seems that various points on the board are subject to poor solder connections. One poster with apparent electrical background does a fine analysis of the root cause. If you can return the scanner, do, and put the money towards the console if you end up taking it from the dealer. You were advised before the scanner purchase what the problem was by other members here. Anyways, nobody at this multi-page link speaks of erasing or resetting the code. Did you try gently re-flowing (All) the solder connections for the third time? Be careful as I once was so aggressive with soldering in my earlier days that I actually toasted the copper beneath the board! EDIT: Just finished page 12 and someone even solved it by re-flowing solder of one of the LEDs.

Search around. I recall reading that removing the positive and negative leads to the battery and then joining them together for a period of time will clear the codes. Then reconnect the positive cable to the positive terminal and then negative. I will hunt around and get back to you. Hopefully someone else will chime in and warn if this will blow up your car.

you are correct msmithmmx

steve. while those values may be correct. Unless you actually scratched the trace below and exposed the copper, you still can't be sure that you have gotten a good solder joint. I am no expert and always remind myself of the lament 'I cut that board three times and it is still too short" any interest in re-flowing those solder joints perhaps with a touch of fresh solder? from the video, the fellow struggled to get it right. as I said earlier, I bought a new unit before discovering the "fix" so I am just cheering you on from the cheap seats.

I just searched a few youtube videos and it appears that code should clear itself after you turn the ignition on/off/on so probably no specific other clearing procedure. Reason I asked is I saw one video but it was for wrx where they shorted pins but doesn't appear relevant here?? Have one last go at re-soldering?