brus brother

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/23909-08-o-b-radio-hvac-control-lighting-prob-6.html post 55 shows arced area on faceplate/unit contact area circled in red in attached imageother posts early on speak of weak solder joints but this poor contact beneath the faceplate seems to be my issue since merely tapping on the faceplate can at times rectify the issue.

++ John's reply above. I had intermittent cutout on my 05 and pressing the faceplate in that area seems to rectify. Apparently from my googling, someone discovered that there is a passive grounding point that develops carbon between the little metal arm and the faceplate. If you decide to explore you will see the area. I will try and find a link.

I did just that on my 08 at the tb change at 105K miles. In truth, it had overheated once due to coolant leak from lower radiator hose but this was my intention anyways. My 05 started with hg leaks about 10K after the tb change so I considered the HG change a matter of maintenance. Now , barely 5K miles later, I am getting the damn P0420 code on the 08 just as I did on the 05. I am not going to waste time tracking this down again. I will just reset the code before inspection every other year since I don't use cruise control which becomes inactive when check engine light is on.

I see you are from Texas. I guess you should also be wary if the NEW car was also in a flood!

https://slickdeals.net/f/11243923-subaru-25-00-test-drive-offer?v=1 I did this a few months ago. I still love my 05 and 08 Man those new cars are nice though!

Subaru techs refer to this as the battery kill switch as it kills many a battery!

Saw this on a deal site link and discussion. I don't have any of this new fangled stuff on my 05 or 08... Mods please move to where appropriate if misplaced here.

did the dealer tell you "it's all in your head"? heh heh

Seen Netflix "Dark"?

are you losing any antifreeze fluid. My 08 had a leaking lower radiator hose that went unnoticed until I overheated (twice) simple things first

Fluid level? Any leaks?

agreed. bet ya its P0420 I have had the code for 95K miles. I bought a $20 code reader that also clears codes and just clear the code and reset the systems to pass emissions every 2 years. Do you need to pass inspection that reads OBD in your particular county? How did you determine that the bulbs had been tampered with? Is the cruise control working? Cruise will cut out if there is a CEL.

yup, same thing happened to me when I tried to start my wipers while they were frozen in a pack of snow on the windshield.

I know you said it seems fine but I would check for continuity on the appropriately colored wire before and after the rear hatch harness as it goes from body to hatch. Mine wasn't obvious at first glance. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/163213-broken-wire-to-rear-hatch/?do=findComment&comment=1356799 see pic in post #4

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiz25mXqP7XAhXHSCYKHaEZDzYQ3ywIKjAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DszwclmmKwLg&usg=AOvVaw1paMnBvC3YBCUQ3qP3YO4v

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/165080-2005-outback-rear-window-defroster-not-working/?do=findComment&comment=1371248 check out the above post about faulty wiring to rear defroster. Many of us have problems with the wiring as it goes from the body through a rubber boot to the rear hatch. The above post has links and descriptions on how to access the area for repair.

Not so sure about the reprogramming of remotes. Have changed battery and never had to reprogram the remotes on my 08. I use a cheapo scanner to scan and reset my 05 and 08 like the $15 one linked below: LINK It plugs into the terminal and doesn't require a computer or smart phone. Simple to use. I have gotten error codes when I turned the key to the on position Before attaching the reader. Correct sequence: key off/attach scanner tool/key to on position/hit scan button

top mount for strut has possibly broken loose from assembly

Can you provide a picture of the connector? Get yourself a mirror and a flashlight and you should be able to see where the mate is for that connector. It's impossible to see under there otherwise. I "disabled" my motorized seat one time after some overzealous cleaning. Another possibility would be a passenger in the rear seat sticking their feet under the driver's seat and disconnecting the cable. Once you visualize where it goes the trick will be to reattach it essentially by feel. There may also be a connector to the side airbag so BE VERY CAREFUL while monkeying around in there or better yet disconnect the battery first.

Well sounds like you'll be going back in the water... If you can identify the color of the wire for the reverse lights, remove the gaiter at both ends and tug on that color wire from either end of the boot. Since you said you cut and taped the boot, you might open that up as well to make sure the wire is intact and not frayed as you tug on it. If the wire is intact, trace the wire from the bulb back to the easiest point of access of a connector before and after the bundle and check for continuity along the way. Could be one of your connections failed (mine did the first time) or it is one of the wires you didn't repair (yet). Electricity is a linear event.

what gauge wire did you use?

Agreed on availability of piece for replacement if it needs to be replaced. I am not getting any failure reports of sealing though have been warned that aftermarkets can have issues. My situation is that a tether that doesn't relate to function other than forgetfulness of the operator failed first on the 08 and then later on the 05. Making the cap idiot proof as far as leaving it at a gas station is the only function of the tether. The adjacent plastic did not seem fatigued as I was able to jam it into the weed whacker gas line splint. 86 Trans am is an admirable save. I have a buddy nursing three 1968 Subaru 360 sedans and one truck. He actually found rings for the engine through SOA for peanuts. So I will take my bow as MacGyver in training and report back in the future if/when it fails. Believe me, as a practicing dentist, I know full well of the potential or should I say inevitability for failure of parts made by God no less parts made by man!

Darn. I knew I should have titled this post "Broken Gas Cap Tether... Just Buy a New One" Perhaps there should be an entire section in the FAQ Sticky Compilation for "Broken item, buy a new one" Problems Solved!

@GD, I admire your tenacity. However, the thought of squirreling away one (or two) spare parts for every possible scenario, for the day they may become useful, is beyond the storage capacity of my attic, basement and garage. I will continue to cobble together solutions and remedies when possible but at some point realize that there does come a time to say "when".

The gas cap tether on both my 05 and 08 outback broke. getting forgetful and not wanting to leave it at a gas station or on the roof of the car... I searched around on the web and found someone making a replacement for about $10. Subaru only sells the cap which comes with the tether for about $26. I saw a youtube video where they lapped the broken ends, glued them and used small zip ties. I have a simpler solution and time will tell if it is durable. I didn't use any adhesive but just jammed the broken ends into a small piece of chain saw gas line. I don't know the exact id of the line but it was a real tight fit and seems to be holding. If it fails I might consider some silicone or other adhesive like M-1. sorry picture attached out of focus.