sirtokesalot

does it sound like a ratcheting sound gets worst as u speed up does not matter if clutch is in or out only makes the sound while moving? would be interesting to learn this one i have a friend whos car is doing the same thing and he has been driving it like that for months.

i might be one of those crazy people that would wire an amp wire without a fuse. i know the dangers of doing so but i also cannot seem to put a large enough fuse in there without it blowing out after 2 or 3 songs. after replacing so many fuses i just gave up with fuses.

im pretty sure mine runs with that sensor unplugged. i learned this unplugging things one day trying to find out if it would run better with somtihng unplugged when i was having running issues.

i have but it was not as bad as you are describing. i used a combination of a come along a tow strap and a hydraulic wedge. we strapped the front of the car to a tree and used the come along to pull on the back of the car form another tree. sledge hammers pry bars and such. we got it close i never took any before pictures but there was a gap on the drivers side where the rear hatch would not close it was about a 2 inch gap.the tail light would not bolt on ither. the whole drivers rear fender was pushed in about 6 to 8 inches. this is what we got it to after a few hours.

did you change the wires too or only the coil and plugs?

it turned out to be bad information i had thought cylinder 3 was the front right one turns out its actually the rear left side. the cylinder had no spark unfortunately i did not figure this out until i had already taken the whole engine apart and verified timing. put another coil on it and all is fine now.

verdict is in. drove it to my uncles house for compression check on cylinder 3. it has good compression i forgot what my uncle said it was but it was up in the high 100's. i pulled the left and right timing covers off and lined the crank up with the timing marks on the timing cover. both cams are way off from the timing marks at the top of the cover id say close to half way between being pointed left and top on the cam marks. is it safe to say it jumped timing and this is why its running as it does? please excuse my crude paint drawing this shows what ive got going on. left and right circles are the cams the center circle is the crank pully

i put new wires on the car after this issue began i also started the car with the plug out / plugged into the coil and saw very good spark on cylinder 3's spark plug. the exhaust sounds like a dead spot is happening while idling. i can put a video clip up tomorrow morning.

about 4 hours ago it turned into a constant misfire on cylinder 3. i have since put new wires on checked for spark witch it has checked for fuel witch it also has im thinking the cylinder might have lost compression but i do not have a compression tester to verify this. what could have happened? the car is sort of driveable but misfires bad at slower speeds i had to drive it home 14 miles with the check engine light blinking half the time if i kept it in 3rd driving at 45 to 50 it seemed to not misfire and the check engine light stayed constant its an automatic. only p0303 is coming up in the code reader. the happened after a hard acceleration from a stop up to highway speeds during the acceleration it began skipping.

i have used both the good ones and cheapo ones with my 95 legacy and both read just fine however i do recommend getting one that will tell you what the code means on screen vs the ones that just give you a number witch u then have to look up in a book provided with the scanner. my book is gone now it went missing a long time ago but u can still check the code meaning on google.

wires are the same as when i got the car plugs are new and the coil is used but same symptoms with both coils. if it were wires would it not misfire every morning i start it due to moisture being there? i pulled the plugs out the other week but did not notice any coolant or oil on them i couldn't really see into the cylinders. i do not lose coolant often either it will stay full for months before needing a top up. the car leaks alot of oil and seeps coolant from somewhere the whole bottom of the engine is just oil sludged however it only consumes about 3/4 of a quart between oil changes.

i have a 95 legacy with the 2.2 im having an issue with the engine misfiring if i leave the car sitting for more than a day or 2. if i drive the car daily the issue is not there. so say i leave it parked for 2 days or longer when i go to start it it will start and misfire for around 5 to 10 minutes until the engine warms up and the misfire will go away and drive perfectly until i park it again for 2 days or more. what could be causing this to happen?

i have a 95 legacy wagon with very bad rust issues in the back i have recently been searching the craigslist for another 95-99 legacy but im searching for the car version vs the wagon i have now and im also shooting for a standard. im searching for cars that need an engine as well with the thoghts of swapping my good running 2.2 into it and using the manual transmission instead of the automatic i have now. would there be any cars i could not do this swap with am i going to run into issues using an automatic engine with a manual? i have never done a swap myself but i am very mechanically inclined and have garage space + my brothers help who is a mechanic.

i have a 95 legacy wagon with the 2.2 ej22 motor. if i leave the car sitting for a while then go to start it it will misfire for around 10 or 15 min and be undriveable durring that time but it clears up after that time and becomes driveable for weeks unless its left to sit again. what the hell is going on with the car?it has new plugs and wires recent coil i took the radiator cap off with it running no bubbles oil is spot on looks perfect.

junk yard 5 bucks a side

ive had an exhaust leak from the front flange since i got the car ive tried to fix it a few times now with no success new gasket double gaskets whats the best way to seal the flange when a gasket wont seal it? this is the last leak left in my exhaust.

i might back into this tree myself when winter is over if it doesn't collapse my then. i think it should be fine there's plent of metal left on mine but there's also very large holes. fiberglass is going to be my tool for repair.

sounds like my cars twin. bought it cheap cv's are going bad brakes were shot needed an oil pan speed sensor is iffy and sometimes does not work right away and my harmonic damper came off about a half a year after purchase. i torqued mine back on at 150. its not coming off again.

i feel like someone removed mine years ago or it does not work because i can shift without the brake on or without the car running even. i am required to push the button still but there was never a lock in mine since i got it or there is and it does not work.

id remove it if it were me. why does it need to lock?

do you think this seat belt warranty would cover the little plastic piece missing that holds the buckle from falling all the way down? its annoying to me having to mess with the belt to find the buckle sometimes it gets slammed in the door.

on my 95 legacy wagon there was no wires there i added the wiring and plug witch i cut from the doner car at the yard. i assume its the same on other subarus without the option from the factory?

does your car have fog lights? one of those is for a fog light switch i believe at least thats what i put in one of mine when i installed fog lights. for my cars case i used a second fog light switch to be able to turn on/off abs as i wish.

do you think it would be wiser to switch to the next style headlight with the separate side markers? those headlights have a clear lens without the wavy pattern in them.

im getting the stuff together for the projector retrofit and was wondering will the wavy clear lens of the stock lens interfere with the light output from the projector?