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the escaping gas forces the coolant out of the highest points. When I have seen this you usually have an overfull expansion tank.

A few years a go both Toyota Corrollas and Chevys (I think they were called Novas) were made on the same line at the Fremont plant. The Chevys were cheaper new and lost thier value quickly. Savy consumers could pick up a good Corrolla with a Chevy badge at a bargain.

every seal you can get to. The oil pump o ring and crank especially. Check valve clearance. If your money is still good rear seal and change the plastic seperator for a metal one. Water pump and tensioner if you have the money. You will probably find something else too, but if it is a manual tranny this is a good time to do the clutch. This is what I had done on mine, it does not leak and I hope it stays in the car till the rings wear out.

I hate to say it but a head gasket is a good canidate.

up on a rack. Good luck Blitz, you might speak to your local front end shop and ask them which bushing goes most commonly on Subies in your area. Jamie has hit the most likely canidates except sway bar busings.

on my BMW and the last Mercedes I rebuilt this was a no no. Bolts stretch to get thier holding power and a lot of the new ones are only supposed to stretch once. This is sort of like when you stretch an elastic band. The head bolt is always pulling the head down at a predetermined pressure. Bolts used to come loose more because gaskets would compress, dirt in the holes would come loose, or the lesser quality of the bolt steel would stretch. Heads often were off several times in the life of a car becuse you had to grind the valves regulary and decarbon. For these reasons checking the torque during a tune up was common. With a modern car the head often stays on for the life of the car.

would be pretty unusual. Still possible but odd. We need to know more. Where was the leak? Did the car overheat? Was the usual stuff in the expansion tank?

all the usual noises and can help you pin it down. The internet often fails us even on easy noises. I recall driving around with a customer after hearing the description of a noise. From their report I would have formed one impression and after the test drive I would have another.

it ought to be a lot easier on your car. We used to retorque heads as a matter of practice years ago. Let us know how it works with these bizzarre new headbolts. Wait till after winter though, because we don't want you to freeze if it does not work.

I am glad someone has a memory even if it's not me.

at the rear of the block is a device that is known for leaking unless you replace them with a new steel part. I can look it up when I am home if need be, but if you aren't going in the rear to replace the rear seal it would not be worth it unles it already is leaking. My 99 was.

frankly on that car it is not far from a retorque to replace the head gaskets. If it was not such a pain I am sure folks would do it. They do say not to retorque a lot of one use head bolts, but I am not sure what yours uses.

a car with 108,000 can run. It uses a regular small amount of oil and a bit more when driven hard or on trips. There is a reason the manual tells you to check the oil with each fill up on gas. Good thing you checked when you did, but there may be nothing really wrong with a 97 that used that much oil in two months other than being a bit old.

If it only occurs under load and higher octane cures it. I agree with the above that these cars carbon up and the Seafoam may help. As an engine wears oil gets past the rings too which also causes pinging. In the old days we just retarded the timeing, but you can't really do that now.

and that stupid plastic oil slinger in the rear replaced on mine while it was out. I also had the tensioner replaced because I really don't want to go in there again while I have the car.On that car don't forget to check valve adjustment while it's out and easy.

of Budapest is rather unlike the climate in Arizona or Florida.In some cases the extra cooling can make a tranny run too cold. Subaru may have omitted the cooling in your area.

after you do it. It will wear your tires quickly and can be dangerous if left uncorrected. I would replace the tie rod end as soon as I could.

If it were mine I'd tear off the heads and see what I had in there. I have also heard of a seized cam and if I recall when they got that engine down it was determined to be because of low oil pressure due to an oil pump seal. Trust me that it is truly frustrating to go to a lot of trouble and find out later you wasted all that time.

to get it out. How are you going to do that with a pitching stopper in place?

you know its a problem after all. I'm halfway tempted to change my senders as preventitive maintence.

and is one of the reasons a lot of shops set thier guns too tight. I retorque my BMW alloys a few times over the next week when I have them off. The Forester has steel and I only do them twice.

they really feel a lot different. Dealer is curently trying to twist my arm to trade my 99 forester for an XT Forester. For my use the Outback and Legacy are too long as they require one more back up in my yard to turn around and don't park as well in the city. Nice choices to have.

that could save us a lot of time.

this also reinforces my belief that the cold forces Canadians to have a sense of humor.

Or adding studs instead of head bolts. The layout of the engine makes most common fixes a real hassle. Maybe this is why the phase 1 is on it's third head gasket revision.