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Like Adnan I run it in my BMW manual.

houses. It may require a press and puller to disassemble though.I rebuilt a Chevy one years ago ago and just took the seal in to a commercial bearing house and matched it up. If you live in the country it might be tough to have access to bearing wholesalers.

Electric fuel pumps are cooled and lubricated by the fuel. If you run dry you are not doing it any favors. I use a quarter tank as my low level and fill when I get there.

that the 2.2s did not have this problem? The basic design is the same except for the larger bore. Frankly coolant maintence is good but does not make up for the fact that this is a flaw. There have been a large number of folks who took good care of thier cars that have been affected. To be an opinionated expert is not that hard in this society.

I would check would be the PCV system. After that the seals. These are the cheapest repairs and after that it usually gets expensive. I have a 99 Forester also that uses about a pint to an oil change. I have about 105,000 miles and all seals and the oil slinger back by the clutch were changed around 90,000 miles when it got new head gaskets and clutch.

elements installed in the seat, a relay, and a switch. This can be a fair size job which would be much easier if you could find a wreck to get the seats and the other bits from.

I wanted another TR3. I had one already and could not find another anywhere. I finally found one with quite a bit of rust and fixed it up. Shortly after I finished I found two more with cherry bodies. It looks like you got lucky and found close to what you want.

and driving who knows how long until you drive up to a store window and see they are on. Makes you feel pre-senile.

I have seen quite a number of likely cars for you in the past. Of course if you are looking for one none will be available until until you stop looking........

applications of the same basic unit. You have just learned why many mechanics keep the old unit until fitting the new one has been done and tested. Sometimes I have had to strip parts like the mount, or reclock (turn the houseing) on a unit in order to have the car done on time.

to pay off my college dept. One thing I paid interest on all that time was a used VW. I imagine I could have bought a few VWs with what I paid on interest for that car.

have seen would require removal of either engine or transmission. Perhaps someone who has worked on your model will respond.

do the inspection. That way they are rather obligated to give you a finished product that passes.

the car smells like a kerosene heater for a few days after, even when I rinse the heck out of it.

if that is the proper term on a Subaru.A lot of them are plastic and prone to leak. I had mine changed when I had the clutch and rear seal done. It is very easy and cheap when the engine is out and the plastic ones have a high failure rate. The new one is metal.

and the crank seal myself.

Being an old codger who has mounted both fog and driving lights on a number of vehicles the advice these folks are giving is sound. If you upgrade your headlights beware of overloading wireing and switches. It might be good to get a name brand kit and be aware of the state highway safety code.

The other skip did a really nice DIY series on this if I recall correctly.

I have what seems to be unusual internet advice for you. Keep your car well maintained and fix what is wrong with it. Oddly enough I do this myself and smog is not a big problem.

thermostat would trap less air in the block. I can't help wonder what effect having the thermostat at the top of a Subie engine would have on cooling problems. Since heat rises it seems more logical. Regardless of logic Subies do work. Perhaps Subaru is trying to have the hot water rise through the radiator?

Northwets way. Makes sense to me. I learned to do the job the way I did from guys who had trained in the thirties and there are always better ways. They do go bloop when a thermostat opens for sure, we were taught to stand back for the burp. The neatest way I've seen though is with a pressure tester and cracking the high spot. One thing about Subaru that I agree with Setright on is that Subaru engineers must have been given instuructions to use the oddest possible solution to any question. One of the reasons I bought this car was that the quirky engineering amused me. My BMW is completely conventional in comparison. I have had about 100 vehicles and nothing is quite like a Subie.

and Richard's comment about the rally race hit home. We had many miles of woods roads and an abandoned railroad track to the next few towns you could drive on before you had a license. I drove Greyhound busses NY to SF for 10 years with non syncro transmissions. The way you could tell you were tired was when you got off the freeway and could not find the gears. When Subarus first came into Maine years ago they were darn near the only resonably priced 4WD that was available.They soon earned a very good following for thier relibility and abilities in the snow. If I lived up there now I would probably drive a Legacy with an automatic.

going around since the 60s. I would not have believed how controllable an automatic could be until I owned a few. You often buy what you have because you like it. If you like it and it works fine for you that's what counts. In 20 years both transmissions may be history and I am not sure this will be settled then. There will still be old codgers on the porch saying my 5 speed would have climbed Mount Everest...... It would be very interesting to have a 5 speed vs manual contest next winter. I won't be there. I moved to CA to avoid the snow except on Xmas trips.

but if you turn the heater to on anyway it will work on all of them. It is a waste of time if you don't have the valve, but sometimes it is hard to identify the valve. I agree with you that a bleeder installed on the highest point would be a fine idea. I figure the next time I change my coolent I will install a bleeder valve with a hose running to the expansion tank. Then I could leave it open until I had done the warm up idle. I often stand in front of a car for five minutes or so watching it run with the cap off and keeping it topped up. I like to be sure the thermostat has opened, and refill it before the test drive.

I used to be a great believer in manual transmissions until I had a few late model automatics. My CJ7 with a rare Turbo 400 automatic beat the pants off my CJ5 manual in traction on any loose or wet surface. I know part of this is the torque converter's 40 to one launch and the easy controlability. Towing a sailboat out of a slimey boat launch my S10 Chevy five speed had to be driven like Mario Andretti. I stopped even putting the 7 in 4wd because it just drove out with no drama. For me the real choice is what I am going to use it for. For city driving in SF you can't beat an automatic. For stop and start commuting an auto is great. Right now I am driving a BMW M Roadster with a five speed manual and a five speed Forester. I have a short commute, only a tiny bit of snow, and little stop and go traffic. These are good choices for my curent life, but last month when I was consider a job with a 100 mile heavy traffic commute I was looking at automatics. Buy what you enjoy driving, it is your life.