MountainBiker

You people don't understand. The buzz is 100% not related to the resistors I've added. The buzzing is in stock vehicles and mine too, because my TCM thinks it is stock. Like I said, maybe my ear is sensitive to this frequency, because I hear it on all the 4EATs I've come across. BTW, my 4wd works so good (when I've engaged it) that if I try to make a u-turn, even on dirt, I grind to a halt due to binding. When I make tight turns in sand, I get massive understeer. It doesn't get much better than that. I'm not trying to force anyone to do this, and there are risks involved, especially for those that don't engineer a good system. With the proper design, install and use, transfer clutch life can be extended, and offroad capability can be improved.

Maybe it's just the later models then, or maybe I'm sensitive to the frequency. I've heard it on all Foresters from 2001-2005

one other reason: Because you damaged the pan by hitting it on a rock! Don't ask me how I know.

Actually, I don't get a light because of the resistors. Before I had those in place, I did get a light. In fact, Andy and many others have also reported getting the light whenever they used the switch. I also don't get a light, even if I leave the switch in the locked position when I shut off the car and remove the key, and then restart. I don't get a light, because with my setup, the TCM cannot tell what I'm doing. As far as it "knows", it is still controlling the transfer clutch solenoid. That is what one of the resistors is for, a dummy load that mimics the transfer solenoid. BTW, anyone notice the buzzing you get from the transmission when in R,1,2,3, or 4? Open your driver's door with the engine running and you'll hear it. Then place the selector in P or N, and the buzzing slowly goes away. That buzzing noise is the transfer clutch solenoid!

My '02 doesn't use a pan gasket, just hi-temp sealant according to Subaru.

I take a different approach, I use the switch proactively. When I'm offroad and I'm coming up on something that looks sketchy, I flip the switch before I enter the section. Right after I did this mod a couple years ago, I would leave it on for long periods of time (50 miles or more) when offroad. Now I engage it in sand and mud, and for other sketchy sections uphill and downhill. I try to flip the switch off when I come up on tight turns, in order to lessen the strain on the clutch pack. And like I've said before, I don't get a TCM warning/MIL light.

WooHoo! This is a great mod!

www.AJUSA.com is consistently the lowest delivered price. Their delivery can take awhile though.

Okay, good. That is what I've always read.

Great pictures! I didn't know that, but I don't spend any time in snow. The usual convention I've learned is that the uphill vehicle is supposed to back up.

Me too!

I agree the CC is awful. But the same thing happens outside of cruise control, regarding the TC unlock. The TCM uses the TC unlock in order to aid acceleration on light throttle inputs. At least in my '02 Forester.

Wow, this event is coming up quickly!

The unlock Porc is talking about is very noticeable when using cruise control. When you hit a hill and the speed drops, the TC unlocks, raising rpm slightly. After quite some time (too long actually) the TCM realizes that speed is still dropping, and THEN it shifts to 3rd. If the hill is slight enough, the shift to 3rd won't ever take place, the TC will just lock again.

Any more info on the r200 swap?

So if Subaru says you get a 50/50 TORQUE split in 1st gear, then you are only as good as an open diff, which also gives you a 50/50 torque split. Subaru also says that we have Symmetrical AWD, and that they "transfer power from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip". These statements aren't technically true, but they aren't outright lying either (they gotta prevent lawsuits).

No problem. I had posted a link on the super-long diff lock thread from earlier this year, but I just checked, and it looks like my linky is dead. Here is a new link to a post with the updated schematic. Check out the link that says MtnBiker, and I can vouch for the non-turbo setup working very well: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/forums/showpost.php?p=72318&postcount=66 If people are interested, here is a link to my trials and tribulations of trying to design this thing: http://offroadsubarus.com/index.php?option=com_forum&Itemid=46&page=viewtopic&t=686 DISCLAIMER: While I believe this mod to be safe when used correctly, use it at your own risk. If any thing harmful happens to you, your car, your possessions, innocent bystanders , or passengers, don't blame me, this forum, or anyone else but yourself!

Cheapest site I found for the GR2s is http://www.AJUSA.com

Yes, do this mod at your own risk! However, I've been using a switch and a set of resistors since January '05, with no problems. My setup is not quite the same as Andyjo's, it's a little more complex to prevent the dash light and to provide a soft bleed of voltage on the solenoid. In that time, I've only gotten the tranny temp light twice, and it wasn't on the next start, it was right after resuming AWD. Why do it? To eliminate the delay in transferring power to the rear wheels in tough situations, to get 4wd on deceleration, and to save the clutch pack when driving on sand (TCU significantly slips the clutch when on sand).

If the price I listed above is correct, then I'm going to try to get him to install a new Subaru axle with no labor charge. Seems like that will be the best solution. As far as the brand of axle that was installed, I didn't find that out yet.

A bad cat can cause bad gas mileage, and is usually accompanied by poor engine performance. If the material in the cat breaks up, it can clog up the pipe and cause a restriction.

As far as I can tell, it is installed properly. New parts from SubaruGenuineParts will be about $263 picture here The problem is, if I go with a rebuilt Subaru axle or a new Subaru axle, I'll probably have to pay for parts and labor myself. Sounds to me like you all think it is a bad install or a bad axle assy that is causing the problem. In that case, should I have them install another assy from the same manufacturer (which would be free if the wobble goes away)? What are the odds that will accually fix it?

Thanks for the pics!! What is the clearance under the Y-pipe, which is the low spot for the Forester and probably also the older OBW. If I were Subaru, I wouldn't use the lower control arm for my measurement, if I could get away with using a higher point somewhere along the center of the car.

I think all of the following should happen: -Talking -Inspecting each other's rigs -Eating -Trail run for stock vehicles -Trail run for modified vehicles (if there is interest) -Road run for street only vehicles -Camping -Repeat BTW, if we pull this off, I'll probably take a couple extra days to explore Anza Borrego, Joshua Tree, or other nearby places. Gotta make the trip worth my 10 hour driving investment!