MountainBiker

Model and year are in my sig. '02 Forester, so it doesn't have the automatic activation during defrost as some other models/years do. The battery is in really good shape, and is about 3 months old. But a possibility is that the alternator loading may occassionally call for the "idle up" It's a 4EAT. And the trans control unit might be doing some funny things. Yes, this is the likely culprit! However, it is controlled completely by the ECM on my '02 Forester and it is also used to control the normal idle speed. When this problem occurs, I am usually at 1500-3000 rpm, so I need to figure out what input is causing the ECM to bump the air volume in an effort to increase the idle speed. Obviously, at that rev range, I don't need an increase, but the ECM seems to think I do. I expect this idle up phenomena is just a normal occurence, but I want to disable it. Of course it could also be a symptom of something malfunctioning on my car, but I doubt it.

Besides the Air Conditioner? I know that when the A/C pump is on, the engine "idle up" function is used, but there is something else that is triggering it, because it happens even with the A/C off. If you are on a super steep road (think San Francisco, but longer distances on dirt or gravel surfaces), and using a low gear to control the speed, every so often, the engine backpressure decreases, causing an increase in speed! I'm pretty certain this is the "idle up" function in the ECM. I can easily turn off the A/C on these steep decents, but something else is causing it, so I'd like to disable it with a switch. This can be a bit scary when on loose gravel roads, since you speed up when the "idle up" occurs, so you hit the brakes, and ABS engages, while continuing to speed up! ABS disabling on gravel is an additional subject, not in the scope of this thread.

I'm all for pushing the limits. <Start Rant> However, this is a bad trend. I ride many single track motorcycle trails (legally restricted to M/C only) that people have taken quads on. Now it isn't singletrack anymore! Similarly, taking anything over quad size, on a legally designated quad trail, changes the trail into a road. This is the kind of stuff that gets areas closed to motorized vehicles! I've seen many areas closed over the years here in California, and it is very frustrating. The anti-access crowd says: "see, the BLM/ForestService/StateOrganization can't properly manage their trail area, so it must be shut down", and this argument works all the time! <End Rant>

Thanks! Now I see the two options, either the sandrail hydraulic system, or a modification using two handles pulling on the parking brake cables individually. On my Forester, the parking brake is on the rear discs. The sandrail one looks real promising, among other links I found this one, that explains it pretty well: http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Dunes/4099/turn.html I'm a little concerned about the comment on breaking the differential. I suppose on the sand you'd be using them all the time, I just want it for the occassional time when I have diagonal tires spinning, and I'm wondering why I paid extra money to get the worthless rear VLSD!

Any pics or details on this?

I've been thinking of doing this on my Forester for the rear e-brake. I tried searching with no luck, so does anyone have any install tips or links?

I've had mine on for hours at a time with no issues. When the transfer clutch is "locked", it isn't generating any heat. If left unlocked, it would generate a lot of heat due to constant engaging/disengaging and partial engagement. So I postulate that if you had built up heat, it was due to the torque converter, not the transfer clutch override.

sean, I'm still wondering what car you have. Can you fill out your profile please?

I'm working on finding the answer to your question: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54492 If you have the '04 struts in hand, please measure them like I did in the post above, and then we can compare. I think '97 or '98 was the first Forester model year, and the struts first became different in MY03.

I've been asking them about that since January. The response two weeks ago was "no lift yet for the Forester", even though the web site claims it's existence.:-\

Get them sent from down under via Aust Post and it will be even cheaper!

That is Fish Rock Road, near Gualala, California. It is a great rally style road, with lots of redwoods!

The SF.com meet is open to all Subarus. And they are doing a "spirited" drive as well.

It won't NEED positive camber, but you will get positive camber until you correct for it during alignment. Check out this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56392

I'd be up for a Bay Area meet, and perhaps a Reno meet. Assuming of course that new gens are allowed! Perhaps we could do an offroad drive along with the meet? BTW, the more street oriented SubaruForester.com is meeting on May 13th in the north bay: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/forums/showthread.php?t=1129 All Subarus are welcome!

Thanks for confirming that!

They list springs that are lower than stock(L), stock ht(S), and higher than stock (H), for both the front and rear end of the Outback. What am I missing? 96-10/98 OUTBACK 2ND GEN Front L/S/H: KFFL-25/KFFS-25/KSFR-26 Rear L/S/H: KSRL-25/KSRS-25/KSRR-25

The rear only has one lateral link. Ao adjusting the length of the rear lateral link with the inboard adjuster affects toe primarily.

But I thought that adjuster is used for toe, and then you get whatever camber it is when the toe is correct, or vice-versa.

I've read in the service manual and elsewhere that the Forester rear camber is not adjustable. I assumed the impreza would be the same? In that case, I would think that the aftermarket camber bolts would be a good idea.

King Springs lists standard height presumably stiffer springs. Contact them to see how much stiffer they claim to be. You can see the Outback springs on page 21 of this application guide: http://www.kingsprings.com/kings_master_catalogue.pdf

So what am I going to do? I'm trying to get a rear strut from an '03-'05 in my hands, because I believe the spring perch is aligned the same as on my '02. This should make it real easy to mount the newer strut with more tire clearance onto my '02 Forester, while also giving a bit of lift. I've got a SubaXtreme lift kit on the way, so hopefully I'll have the strut situation figured out by the time the lift is ready for install.

Forester Front on Left, Outback Front on the right. Forester Rear on left, Outback Rear on the right. You can see that the spring perch is higher on the Outback, but also that the spring orientation will need to be different, perhaps requiring the use of the Outback tophat.

I was able to get a hold of KYB struts for the 98-02 Forester and the '96 Outback. You can view my measurement results in the attached file. It appears to be possible to use the Outback struts on the Forester (might need different top hats). Doing so would give more tire clearance to the rear struts and more height, due to the longer rear Outback strut length. Tire clearance was the reason I looked at the Outback struts, but the fit issues and the decreased stroke make it not worth it for me. Anyone with an Imp wanting a lift, I'd suggest you go with the Outback struts if you are considering getting large tires. I've also observed that '03 + Forester struts have more clearance too. strut.pdf

For that kind of use, stock is adequate.