TheSubaruJunkie

I unbolted the downpipe from the back of the turbo. My exhaust is all 1 piece, no flanges at the end of the downpipe. Once the engine was on my workbench I removed the turbo and up-pipe. -Brian

Ouch... that was below the belt Zap. I say go for it though Patrick. 1st chance I get im runnin out of cali, thinkin of heading up that way myself. -Brian

When i removed my EA82T, I 1st removed the intake manifold with the smog canister and all the hoses. Then I removed the block from the car with heads, and turbo attatched. When i reinstall the motor, it will be complete. -Brian

I wouldnt pay 10g's for a 30yr old subaru after only seeing one picture of it. Someone local should go take a look -Brian

The Napa listing for the parts im getting were NPT. Are subies NPT? -Brian

the 6x140 conversion is the easiest and cheapest way to get larger rims. -Brian

Make sure your radiator is full. Then leave the cap off the radiator and run your engine. Let the engine idle and warm up. You want to reach operating temperatures and then look into the radiator through the cap. Look to see if there are any bubbles appearing. If the coolant in the radiator bubbles over a prolonged amount of time, and doesnt stop that is a sign of a faulty head gasket. A compression test on the engine will also reveal a bad gasket if one exists. -Brian

Yes it helps a bunch!! Thanks! -Brian

Anyone know off the top of their head what the thread pitch for the water temp sending unit on our EA82's are? Im going to be replacing the gauges with new, mechanical gauges and Napa lists like 4 different units. Im not sure which one i need. -Brian

Are you guys talking about a head gasket kit? or a complete engine gasket kit? I priced complete engine gasket kits. Head gasket kits will be missing oil pan, water pump & oil pump gaskets. Along with the valve guides and whatnot. -Brian

Yeah someone has already found your webpage and we've seen this car before. Its a pretty impressive little hatch. What have you done to make all that power? Here's the thread we have of you from the past: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46392 Welcome to the board! -Brian

You can see it in this picture here: http://gallery.usmb.net/albums/album42/DSC00641.sized.jpg Its located in the block, behind your intake manifold. In this picture, its the little green thingy right above the hole in the block. Your block shouldnt have a hole like this, but you should have a knock sensor there. It maybe easier to get to if you remove the PCV hose from the block. You can follow the wire to the Knock sensor. The plug is tricky to remove, but once you do its easy to remove the knock sensor. -Brian

Yeah Patrick, and I photoshopped this one as well : That was the 1st time I had ever torn an engine apart. I did it about 3 years ago and havent had to do it since. Now im up against the RX and will be doing the same thing as soon as I get a replacement block. I find it best to buy an engine gasket kit. Napa said they could get them for around $200. I opted for the SOA Kit, and was told it was the last in the US (sorry ) Timing belt kits are going for around $70 on ebay, just got a set and they look pretty good. Idlers and all. -Brian

I'd drain the oil 1st and see just how bad it really is. Ive seen milkshake on my oil cap before due to bad PCV but not on the dipstick. Subarian is right, the dipstick should be overfull if the mix is really bad. If you goto drain it and it does this: Then yeah, you probably have a problem. The above picture was from an EA81 I got with bad headgaskets. Prev owner drove it for a couple months until it wouldnt turn over anymore. Took about 10 days to teardown and put back together with all new gaskets. Thats including waiting 3 days for the machine shop to finish my heads, and working only 2-3hrs a day after work. -Brian

Its okay, i understood what you were saying. Something about going through 3 blocks cause you like to blow up subaru engines (sick and twisted bastard you are). -Brian

Yeah my radiator is a new 2 row. I think im gonna do it. Just gotta find the right block. -Brian

You look new. In fact, under your nickname it sais your new as well. Im glad you spoke up. Now I know not to run 15psi through my motor. Im okay with stock boost, i was happy with 10psi but shortly thereafter is when my engine started to burn a massive amount of oil. And then not long after that is when the block went. -Brian

Thanks. Im going to have to find someplace to rebuild my heads and machine them. Im wondering if they can take the heads from the MPFI XT and tap that port in the 1/3 head. -Brian

Thats the last thing I need. -Brian

Ok so this would be like putting a turbo on a standard MPFI engine then. Here's another question? Can i make the VF7 produce LESS than 7psi (what the wastegate is set at). This would be for long hauls, 300 or 400 mile round trips to Reno. Also, it wouldnt be hard to drill through the block to insert a PCV port would it? -Brian

You didnt mention heads Will. -Brian

Well sorry but I cant wait for you I gotta get this engine put together. I was thinking to myself earlier and I wondered if the EA82T heads are the same as MPFI? Would having a 9.5:1 block be like having a standard MPFI engine... meaning i wouldnt even need the turbo anyway? -Brian

I came home today to find my gasket kit waiting for me on the doorstep. So now all i need is a block and im set (hopefully i dont need new heads). Im leaning toward the carbbed block. Nothing ive read has convinced me otherwise. This weekend is the weekend to look, who wants to go to the junkyards with me? (Sacramento, then Reno NV if i cant find what I need). -Brian

Cummon, speak up! Who else is out there? Could use your replies here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48312 -Brian

Make sure you get the lug nuts from the Peugeot as well. Stock Subie lugs wont work at all. 205/55R15 should work. I ran 195/50R15's and it worked out really well, until i lowered my car. A stock EA82 shouldnt have any problems with the setup your looking at. -Brian