vtwinjunkie

Wow. So this all started back in winter, I noticed a funny rotating noise that increased with engine speed but was intermittent in nature, and would kind of go in and out depending on conditions or even bumps in the road which I thought was really crazy. It was a faint humming noise and it was driving me nuts but I decided to let it go until it got louder in hopes that I could track it down easier. Fast forward a few months, noise is a bit louder and I have been trying to pinpoint the conditions in which it shows up. It is intermittent, usually around 40mph, sometimes goes away after 60mph, sometimes its not there at all. it would change pitch as the car downshifted and I was starting to fear the worst (pinion bearing on the front diff or possibly trans related) ! Unlike some of you all I have to work with is my driveway, a few jack stands and a tarp to cover me if its raining....but luckily (fast forward again to yesterday) I was able to get my buddy to allow me to use a lift at his shop just to try to get under the car and listen for this highly annoying noise. Once I got it in the air it was evident that the intermediate bearing on the driveshaft that connects the transmission and rear diff was making the noise! Kind of a bummer since I have to replace the entire driveshaft but at least I have found it!!!\ Last night I ordered an SKP driveshaft from rock auto for 200$ Hopefully Its a reputable brand....anyone have experience with them? I wanted to tell everyone since I honestly dont hear much about these failing. My outback only has 120k miles on it and was never abused or off road driven and was always maintained to the letter from day one! Seems like a rarity but looks like I got one of the bad ones driveshaft wise haha. How many of you have had issues with yours?

The way I read this was that it would cost $25 to test drive one... Although after clicking the link It looks like you can earn $25 to test drive one.

Where was the camera/recording device located whilst recording this audio clip?

I get what your saying but the water was legitimately yellow. Like Urine color yellow or yellow coolant color. And it was thicker than the water.... you could see the water around it not mixing. Although there is no way to know for sure, I just dont think that was it.

Hey all, Car is a 2016 wrx Very odd thing happened today. As I was hosing down the underside of my wrx in prep for the winter fluid film application, I noticed a heavy yellowish fluid as I sprayed the turbo. The fluid was coming out of the heat shield below the turbo pipe and I can only assume that it was antifreeze or some type of oil (perhaps something from the factory to prevent rust) as it was seemingly thicker than water? I assume it was just draining down from above Hard to describe and caught me completely off gaurd.. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the explanation. So basically for the 2004 Forester it will be ok to clean it up and drive it some more to actually see how much oil it is leaking. A friend who is the original owner says he only puts a quart in per oil change so It may not even really "need" to be replaced at this point. I am aware that it will only get worse....but If I could at least drive it till the summer and do the job in the warmth, I would feel much better about it!

CYA? Forgive me, I dont understand this acronym. I did not know that about the conditioner. Ill definitely check it out, thanks for explaining.

What is so simple? Head gasket replacement?

Interesting, Although your experience is valued, The 2005 Subaru Genuine service manual specifically states to add it during the coolant replacement. Not sure how I follow your logic about the conditioner making the system dirty..it is from a sealed bottle. Its not a contaminate. Could you explain your claim? Thanks

Crazy that my 2005 outback is still going strong at 120k. headgaskets havent gotten any worse from what they were when I bought the car at 97k. Perhaps the religious maintenance schedule and subaru coolant additive is working

Never said head gaskets were diagnosed. Sorry for the confusion.

Hey all, I am picking up this Forester and I wanted to know if the 2004 Forester was known for its head gaskets or if it could possibly be valve cover gaskets instead? It certainly has an oil leak as I can see it from the top but have not yet examined the full extent. I already have a 2005 outback that I picked up with 97k miles and although the head gaskets has a very slight seep that hasn't progressed in 2 years since I bought the car, did require me to change the valve cover gaskets early on. Question is...does the 2004 forester and the 2005 outback 2.5i both have the same engines? If so, I am hoping it could be just a very bad valve cover leak but I havent had the chance to get under it due to snow...either way I will still pick it up, Just wanted to hear everyone's thoughts.

Same thing happened to my 05 outback. Do a google search for outback fuel clamps or the like. I found this pretty quickly it might help you find it. very common for our cars. Not sure if that link showed up.

I picked up a set of medium grade Cardone select off rock auto for $50 each ($100 total) to replace my fronts and they seem to be fine....I held on to the old ones to reboot and swap out if the boots ever go on these. Good to know about the HD ones though...

Good to know, Since I dont get all the fluid when I do a drain and fill I just replace the fluid every 15k or so...Ill be sure to replace the filter next time and every other fill from now on.

I diddnt even replace that filter. From what I hear it can cause issues. Have others replaced it with long term success?

JB weld! pics would help

hesitation from first to second is normal on the auto. I have it as well. Not sure about your second to third gear shift though. Second on the new fluid

what year is your car? on some newer soobs there was a brake recall. My 05 had the recall that had something to do with the lines rusting out.

check for voltage drop across the starter cable. (at battery end and starter end)

Thanks, I am not sure about the weather package, I have heated seats and a heated windshield...so maybe? I am the third owner (got it with 100k miles) and the paperwork says rear diff was done at 50k or so with 80w90 (made no mention of friction modifier) I will get it in the air this weekend and have a look

I am leaning towards no. but I wanted to ask the gurus. I contacted the dealer and got conflicting reviews from different dealers. one told me it has the limited slip and I should be using 75w140 synthetic rear fluid the other told me that it does not and takes the standard 80w90 gear oil. I ended up putting the 80w90 in it but I am wondering if I may have screwed up my limited slip by doing so..... anyone know for sure how to tell?

look at the spare tire well. that will give you a better idea

you dont need AC in bozeman!

Question about differentials.....for those of you that know anything about them? On Newer Subaru's (specifically 2015+) Is it worth spending the extra cash for the LSD front and rear commonly found in STI models? I know the Open differentials front and rear on the WRX is semi-redeemed by the use of traction control to help out when needed.... That being said...I was wondering others opinion on the matter.