Phizinza

unlike most four wheel drives, Subaru's aren't scared of getting a little scratched

wow serious overkill on saying whats been said.... lol :-p

Spike the tank and catch with a tub... easy :-p

Yeah, for what you describe I reckon locked in low will be fine. Theres always 4 more gears other then 1st to use. You will not be able to do really hard stuff softly, but it should be ok. I would figure out the gearing for you, but all the gear ratios are on here somewhere and its just a small bit of math.

In 2WD all the same stuff has to turn as if you were in 4WD. This is because Subarus don't have locking hubs on the rear. The only thing that will be a problem with economy is torque bind, which AWD doesn't get. I drived my old 4sp around in 4WD for about six months. Only thing it wore (noticable, transmission was used for a year in another car after with no trouble as well) was the rear DOJ cups. Easy fixed

Personally I wouldn't get over 27" OD tires on a Subaru. But if you have to pick one of those two I would go for the 205's, as the width is already pretty good for a Subaru and the gearing will be better with those.

Or in this case, doesn't work properly!

Took it for a test drive without exhuast and with the second low range. He done the propshafts himself and done a good job. No wobbles on the rear one and only a little wobble at 80kph or more on the front. But with 2 auto lockers any more then about 40kph is unsafe in 4WD. He got a PLX pyro gauge, its sweet. Changed some timing on the fuel pump and it gets around 500 to 700 degrees fahrenheit under load and goes down to about 200 idle. Although all that means nothing to you poor petrol guys. He used a tank out of my old Range Rover (82 litre) where the spare wheel goes normally and removed the old tank because it got hung up on it too much before. He also painted the roof and hood white, to be different. The barwork including rock sliders will be white as well. Installed a Range Rover York aircon pump for an air compressor. At 1400rpm it pumps up his 35" from nothing to 30psi in about a minute and a half.

been talked about and yes, with a S/R XT6 FT4WD box and a D/R FT4WD box you could make a 3.9 FT D/R box.

Thats ok, Done this one two years back. Never had seen a welded diff before then and just thought we'd keep on going. Put that diff through some hard work and never had a problem so I can't see it being a waist. I would prefer to have a well done (over done) job then something on the edge.

A mate of mine drove his L series running on two down his driveway and back, basically couldn't get past 20kmh and probably wouldn't do it again. 3 cylinders is fine I reckon, done it a couple of times.

Angle grind some off the diff spline... Might make it easier.

Without cutting, welding and heat treating (expencive) your only options are: PT4WD D/R box, 3.7 and 3.9 FT4WD D/R box 3.7 and 3.9 (3.9 is using pinion from XT6 4wd box) EJ AWD D/R 3.7, 3.9 (and 4.11 with 1.44 low range ratio, std Forester D/R box) with some machining of the crown wheel the EJ AWD D/R can take 4.11 and 4.44 with the EA82 1.59 low range.

When I first saw this I was going to post a picture of the one I done. But I didn't want to spoil your fun. But you have seemed to forget about this. So......

Yes they are pretty much the same as the standard 5sp for installation. Low range is 1.19 to 1. normal 5sp is 1.59 to 1. Depending on how you like to drive offroad and where you like to drive it may be ok or not. Personally I find the 1.59 to 1 way too high. Wiring it up is easy enough if you make sure you have the solenoids and vac diagram. Low range lever will need some custom making. Yes they are 3.7 ratio. No there shouldn't be any mpg difference between a PT and FT gearbox. This is because Subarus don't use locking hubs on the rear so in both gearboxes the rear driveshafts and diff is still spinning even in 2WD. All the rear diffs with male splines used the same 23 spline count. Its only the front diff in the gearbox that got different spline count.

Fun fun.. Makes me want to go offroading.

I used to snatch, and get snatched a lot with my alloy bullbar on the old Brumby, that just used standard mounts, 4bolts. They are pretty tough for an old unibody

From Similar threads at the bottom of this page: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52234 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11762

Want a BOV, get an aftermarket ECU as well. Get a BPV and just stick it in.

Yes, my brothers garage has a pit. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=720388#post720388 Pretty sure they are stock on Brumby's over here. Every Brumby I've seen has one or more still on it. I think I was missing one out of the 6 the car has. They work good at protecting the CV boots.

If you run 6 or more inches of body lift, yes.

The header for my dual carb EA81 (bigger manifold plate, wider spacing, then standard EA81) two 1.75" into 2" Sorry, but the image is actually of my custom control arm setup, just so happens to have the exhaust in it.

Well, we've got a turbo on it now, no exhaust hooked up yet and the current down pipe is in the way of the front prop shaft. His installing a 10degree clocked Marlin second low range atm. Its got a front anti sway bar to make it acutally drivable on the road, quick disconnects will come soon. Due to the antisway bar the bullbar had to go, but a custom tube bar will be in the making soon as well. Still has the winch, but the bracket was hacked a little to increase approch angle. I'll get back with some pics soonish. With the second 2.28 to 1 low range and the turbo I dont think he'll need anything else. Just some time to go out and have fun. http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=C6C8BF470CFB22AF Theres a link to all the videos I have of his truck on youtube.

When I photochop bobbed my Brat a while ago I made all the measurements and took as much as I could off the front that would acutally work in the rear. It was 6". With a custom bumper that would really make a Subaru better offroad. Oh cause you'd need the rad mounted in the rear.