Phizinza

Yeah, it's annoying about that, they are also only 197mm wide... At the moment I am thinking wider is better. That's what you see on most extreme offroaders, and is also better in sand. Anyone know if BFGoodrich are truthfully the size they say. I was thinking of some 235/75R15 MT's or some Toyo 225/70R15 AT's...

soobmater, what size tires you running? I'm using the kumho 27x8.5's. I get the feeling wider is better and I also get the feeling subies can't take much more then about 255mm wide before it starts getting abnormal bearing wear because of the extra offset you need to clear the springs..

Looks pretty deep, must be nice to live where it rains a lot.

Nah, won't work, different design. Here's what I done, didn't finish it, I tihnk the gears needed to be grinded so it would engage.

interesting. I know they also have things in commen like the R160, same prop shaft splines and design, same rear calipers in some cases. Theres more I can't think of right now, but it's good to know where to get parts from. Anyone else know what else is interchangable?

Skip work, it's free, you don't need money for free! :-p Yeah, I know.

I will give this a go in a couple of weeks when I get my EJ in.. Thanks for doing all the math

I think you'll find they stopped using lead a lng time ago. It's all graphite now.. Just count yourself lucky this isn't on a EJ22, there plug holes are so bloody deep you would have to that the head off..

See... Now theres a real offroader, just if I could drive something like that on the road..... Really you will just want to do the general tune up, check out the ECU codes if theres anything wrong, and it should be a decent car for what you want.

When my brother put a 86 EA82 carb manifold on his 83 EA81 he had the grind about 2mm off the top of the engine block in the middle. As for lining all the fuel and vac hoses, it was really just comparing what went where with the carb when it was in the EA82 car.

If it were me, I'd be on the road now and getting it no matter what. But that's because I want another brat to modifiy and I like cheap.

joostvdw, thanks mate. Heres what I have in mind. Drill out the holes in my bracket so it points the cable in a more level line along the gearbox. Shorten the adjuster part on the cable to get the shortest setup so the lever is closer to 90degrees. And figure out some thing to get the lever longer... Hopefully that will work.

Agreed 100%. But as you can see there really isn't enough adjustment in the cable to do that without making a bracket out of steel and doing what the original looks like in the photo's now shown. I have mounted mine where the bolts are on the case. It looks like the lever is ment to be bigger, hmm. I was told the push button 4WD trans lever would work by a guy who owns a Subaru repair and modification show (who I got the trans off of, as they are import only items here in Australia.) So by the look of it, I need a lever with a longer arm, and to bring the mount up from where the cable sits atm. I guess I am going to have to make a new arm, as it's going to be as hard as finding a needle in a hay stack getting the original.

I don't really think there is anything that is "easy" or "bolt on" to up the power of that motor. A full rebuild if it's getting tired might help. But otherwise your really looking at things like aftermarket ECU and getting ride of all the pollution stuff if you want it more powerful. PK lift, or SJR lift would be the most sane option I would think for you. 27" is a nice size, I run the Kumho 27x8.5 MT's on my Brat, still good onroad and still ok low range offroad.

I know, I just can't stop asking questions about this..... Now I need to know what the bracket on the side of a diff locker box looks like. I have made up something using a S/R lever and vacuum thingy, but it doesn't seem to work. I really can't see how one of these vacuum things can pull and push 50Nm.... But I know they are what is used, and this is what I have come up with. Both pics are in the unlocked position. The lever goes to the left of the picture when in the locked position. Now, whats it suppose to look like!!?

Looks pretty good. Nice and clean

I thought that the 4.44's only came with the stubs attached to the driveshaft, more like the old nissan R200 diffs.

Didn't think of that.. Blue tack is a rubbery sticky thing that you use to hold posters up on walls, wireless cameras under bumps and the like .

I know the fenders are the same. And I know the metal behind the light is different. I think the mounting points are the same, but I thing there is some metal in the way behind the light.. Not 100% sure, but I'd say it would be possible with little work. You also have wiring you need to deal with.

Hahaha. As far as I can see it holds the oil in the first lowrange gear so that gear can push it in towards the imput shaft bearing. But I can't see how that bearing is going to have any shorter life then the one at the back without the piece. If anything the first bearing is going to still be getting more oil to it. I'm going to see how it goes without it, if the bearing dies I can easily replace it, or if I want that part back in there I might also be fitting a front LSD at the same time.

+1, execpt I don't think the brand and pressure matter too much. Also if that all seems right we had the same problem with my brothers wagon when got it because it had a 3.7 ratio diff in the back and a 3.9 ratio in the front. As for checking your front diff ratio, I have no idea.

last time I checked it was a made up word so there for it can have what ever spelling the user wants :-p Can anyone tell us what this device is really called so we can stop all this non-sence??

My sister had a piece of spark plug fall into her 2L Nissan motor (one of those twin spark ones) the vacuum cleaner didn't work, they finally got it out with a stick with blue-tack on it (she said it took 3 hours:eek:) It's only wood, just run the engine :-p it will burn out

Yeah, it's basicly the same as thingy, but just said thinga.. what are we talking about?

New problem... I am trying to figure how to get the vacuum actuator to fit on the gearbox with all the levers and stuff for the diff locker. I got this gearbox without the original levers and things, was told the PT S/R gearbox lever would work which I have but I need some pictures to show me how the original fits on. So I can make up a bracket and stuff to make what I have work. So any pictures of the diff locker lever and that area would be awesome! Cheers,