superooo

What did you guys do? I have had the swap in for a while and am having problems with a 1k rpm idle once warmed up, and after driving i can hear that black tank in back gurgling, its an 84 hatch. Im gonna try a new iac, but still need an answer on the black box, ive read letting the tank vent dangle under the car, but not sure which line to disconnect

Its pretty simple bolt in, one of the first things i did, i havent added the prop valve yet but others say its really important so ill let you decide that, whan you pull the pars pull everything from the backing plate forward and take all the rubber brake lines you can, and i would buy new rotors, oreillys initially told e they wouldnt dit in the machine to rurn them, they fot it to fit and turned but i think they aren't true now because i get an intermittent squeak out of one under light brake pressure, so backing plates the hubs that bolt to the rotors, the calipers, and the prop valve which is bolter in front of the gas tank with 4 lines coming out, take these hard lines connected to the valve so you arent making your own

And apparently my gl sticks to the road even upside down, lol

Trans mounts, the body side bushings on the sway bar endlinks, and both front axles again, bad trans mounts chewed my last axles in like 3k miles. Grrrr. Finished spfi, sent bratsrus my stuff for a 5 spd kit, and got one of those streetlight rainy pictures that make our cars not look like rust buckets

Ill draw it and post a pic

Could you put a 1 gal fuel cell nxt to the stock tank and run its outlet to a y so both tanks supply the pump, a one way valve so it doesn't siphon into the larger tank, run the f/i return to the fuel cell and have the fuel cell overflow into the main tank, in essence a baffle, so the cell always maintains fuel to the pump on hills and coming to a stop, or is it easier to lft it and put a fi tank under, if so which tank will fit with what amount of lift and still clear my diff. Thanks Zeb

And rockauto.com has rebuild kits for calipers, if you really wanna make sure its 100.

Im replacing both cvs today after maybe 5k miles because they got ate by bad trans mounts, just my 2c, dont chase it in a big circle, while you have it up check engine and trans mounts, im doing my cvs the sway bar end link bushings on the body and checking engine and trans mounts

Isnt that what subway guy got arrested for? Topless brat pics, lol

Ya, im no good with thread sizes, just robbed one off another dist

Doing my fi swap had to return and 88 and 89 rotor because they were slip fit, got one for a 92 loyale and it was the proper one, so between 89 and 92 lol

Or something, just help me tune this spfi in, its running, just having some problems out of it, like it bogs and almost dies when i shift to second, and it diesels after the key is off..

Yes,youll be fine, my 87 didn't have the centering lip until last year, but i would swap to disc rear anyways, too easy not too

I believe it's intended for hardcore 4-wheeling and the white plastic is just for the hubcap. Basically that lip take some of the sheer pressure off of your lug nuts so that they're not the only thing holding your tire on and taking all the force of an impact. You could get an extra set of Hubcaps and bend them to where they fit and keep your stock so if you ever go back to using the other rims

Those are one of the only rims that will fit

Its the drums, i just put new rear drums and had the same issue, some have the centering lip some do not

I think its old 80s accord calipers, whichalso allows you to add a rear e brake, or two e brakes for hardcore offroad, think jeszek has a write up on it,

I was looking too deep into it, on the harness side of my coil plug ,not the amplifier plug, black wire with a diode for god knows what in a 92 loyale, cut it off, ran my tach signal to the remaining yellow from that plug, also swapped to a known runnig amplifier but dont think that was my problem, and the biggest thing, i think i was somehow mistakenly running it off of an 86 ecu lol

Codes cleared, maf cleaned, i just took a cutoff wheel and grinder and made my own maf adapter. Ran and drove great yesterday, think my oil pump needs a reseal because its ticking, but this tired old ea81 is on its way out, for my almost complete freshly built hicomp ea81, i didnt want to be working out the bugs on a brand new motor still in its break in period, and the way it flooded and backfired the first couple cranks, im glad i did it that way

My carby when i started the swap. Also forgot i tried to clear the stored codes and it won't start with the plugs connected

It runs good, gotta clean the maf, cause its got a code 23, it idles real high (varies between 1500 and 1000), and on two random occasions it was surging, like 1k-1200, when cold disconnecting the iac had a large impact on idle speed like the book says it should, i think my throttle position sensor needs to be adjusted as i had to take it off while doing my install, gotta do my timing, right now i think im at 28 btdc, have to grind a little more off of the disty mounting ear. Ill start with the disty and cleaning my maf, but from there not sure where to start, i dont want to chase a simple problem ariound in circles, so thought id ask here, gonna try to adjust everything by the book the best i can but i have a hard time translating book theory jnto real world, a denver local who could show me the first time and help me get it to spec would be the best way i could learn, if anybody wants to get a sixer for the help! Lol. But any advice will be greatly appreciated

It works with the bend even but your hammer just wants to roll off onto fingers lol, so i cut mine as it was a cheapy harbor freight.

Just a set of the long allen wrenches, cut the bend off, every punch i tried that was the right diameter was too short, ill see if i can dig it out for a picture,

As for the stubs, i have no tips sorry

Kinda shadey tree style, but i cut a long thin hex key to be just a straight punch, cut the little bend off, and it lives in my axle/wheel bearing kit