superooo

So there's a thread on how to take the 3.7 LSD apart and put the internals in your open 3.9 LSD now my question is is there any other differential that works or does it just have to be this unobtainable Factory Subaru LSD? Because in my way of thinking if you're already grinding the carrier to fit the internals why not look for a beefier LSD and make it work I know the fluid ones fit with a little work but I'm trying to find a clsd, so I guess it's actually my question is if you're piecing it together you still have to get that hard to find golden LSD?

I had a guy who is interested then when I text him about price and stuff he kind of just stopped messaging me so pretty sure it's back on the market

Look at the post about the 86 sedan that's being parted out comma the motor in that still runs the timing belts are broken you'd want to go through it but it only has 86000 miles the guy drove it to where it sits and went to work on it and the timing belt broke

Everything is there, teaar down to begin this weekend

Ive had a similar sound outof my 4wd hatch, im going to do all my front bushings, theres a thread on here about making your own ot of poly, molding them im guessing, aside from that, fleabay and the dealer

Wagonist would this be doable in my ea81 4 wheel drive diff?

How much does a new radiator cost you from Subaru

I have a rebuild kit for a hitachi, dont know if anything in that would hlp u

Does it have to be 85? I have an 86 or 87, i would let go cheap, 86k, coming out of a wreck, roken timig belt, but ran til it broke the belt, im not in oregon but i dont want a lot, and i guess greyhound shipping is reasonable

Getting this car mid august,, will be pulling what i need but the rsst is up for grabs, 86k on the clock, clean interior, crack free dash blue, took a front impact that bent the pitch stopper, but i think the block and heads are still good, the auto trans is questionable but was driving to get it to where it sits, make a list if you want stuff of it, its a gem, sad to see this happen

That car had rear drum but I believe the drum is bigger on the 8th 82. I'm about to get one for parts if you'd like me to pull the drums and send them to you. Ea82 had a self adjuster in the drum and a proportioning valve for the rears..

So still have this front to back play on acceleration and stopping, with a thunk , gone thru and re torqued everything, anything you guys can suggest

Air dam for 84 gl? Cyclops light and grill? Brush guard and skid plate? And any special rims?

Ive seen a lot about identifying them, i just get the impression that hydro lifters have more to fail so they tend to have more problems.

Yeah I was just thinking about that, I don't believe your car has the automatic adjuster that ea82 would, have have you tried adjusting your rear drums

What year is your car?

I just did disc brakes on the back of my 87 hatchback ea81 there is a GL 10 at the junkyard by me if it has disc brakes I could hold them and you could install them on the rear of your car I don't know if it'll solve the problem you're having but it is a definite upgrade and it's a direct bolt in all you would have to do is get the calipers turned or possibly buy new ones depending on condition and same with brake pads I could probably pulled the parts and get them for like 75 bucks plus shipping if you're interested like I said if the car has disc brakes

I'm doing an ea81 build and I'm curious what you guys opinions are on hydraulic vs. Solid lifters. Do you guys prefer one over the other I'm favoring the solid lifters but the motors I have to build are all for hydro lifter setups. Is it possible/worth it and what would i need

The guys here are so cool, ive been following most of your stuff as im currently building an ea81, like mr loyale said, its all experience, and since its being documented we can share our experience. If everyone was as willing to help the people around them as the members here, humanity wouldn't be so hopeless.-end rant That being said im about to crack open a j/y ea81, anything i dont need for my build id let go for shipping cost, so if you're still needing odd parts in a couple of days i got you

Anyone done the controll arm bushings before?

Ok, thank you very much guys, indrid, you're talkig about the 14 mm on the inside of the control arm? I think that is it,while pulling and pushing i noticed a minor wiggle at that bushing, tightened it up and the sound is mostly gone, mostly, so maybe i left it loose or it was going out anyways, but that bushing is prolly smoked now, the reason i was thinking bushings, my old bmw would make a bunch of front end noise when a bushing went out. And i believe mr loyale that is the pitch stopper, mine is pretty tight but i will pull the spare and check today afer work

So i have had a clunk in the front that started rather recently, it happens when im stop and go on hills mosty but starting to hear it in the turns and when braking more and more, i have my wheels off and i can see slip marks on the leading rod where the busing and stabilizer bar connect, so is it as simple as replace that bushing? (Doubt it) or is there a deeper problem here? The tie rod ends look and feel fine, and my manual rack feels nice and tight. Im dropping the skid plate to look, but it all feels tight, and has new wheel bearings and axles in front. Ea81 87 4 spd d/r hatch

Its going in my87 ea81 hatch,

Thanks a lot for all of this guys, youve been a huge help. Can i get pictures of the relay boxes you guys used? Like how you did the wiring to them and stuff? I pulled one out an 84 bmw, and cant see how its supposed to work in gds pics

I see, just the connectors, well i took allthe plugs on the manifold side, and pulled all the sensors and stuff so i have spares