superooo

I can go take any pictures you guys need.

So ive had this car for a little while now, failed emissions like 9 times, each time we corrected something, another was just over tolerance, finally got it to pass, now on to making it what i want! Got my spfi stuff, still trying to get experienced input on gear orientation on the sfi disty shaft, but thats another thread. But i was underneath the hatch the other day and noticed a lot of fluid on my trans. Checked its level and its at the L. Considering its never left a puddle anywhere this is a new development. The other day i noticed its pass axle is starting to make noise when its moving in 1st under its own power and when im braking, 99 percent thats just a worn cv, but where the cv neets my trans is covered in fluid, driver side is bone dry. Axle seal? Thats why im here, looking for input, im looming for a dr 5spd that doesnt have 1000000000 miles on it, brut until then i have this, so need to keep it rolling. Also, is this the pulley to use on the maxima 90 amp alt?

I use these for mounting hardware, theyre rubber, put a dab of silicone to hold it and add waterproofing, but the rubber crushes to seal the hole, 36/c ea at ace. Any time you drill your exterior its best to scuff and prime the hole, even if its parts store primer, these cars already rust like a Scottish fishing boat, so if you dont want to eventually sweep it out of your garage, do all the preventative work youcan lol. Just my 2c

Ok so it backfiring and you need to know vacuum line routes?

Bump

Ok thank you, looks like itll be trial and error, was hoping for some different experiences with different placementS, prolly gonna tanke it amd tack weld it in a few different spots and see what works best for me, will report back whem done

So i am prepping parts for my spfi swap and most of the links on here regarding the swap are broken or dead or lead somewhere else. I need to know the proper orientation of the gear from my ea81 disty on my spfi disty shaft, ive read about people consistently ending up "1/2 tooth off" and i would like to avoud that if possible. Should the new hole be in line with the original or perpendicular, anythin.. thanks

Ok, thanks, in your exp did you line up with the original hole in the shaft, obviously the gear is too tall to line up and use those ones but i mean did you try lining your new hole off the old one?

My concern is rooted in the write up i have saying the ecus and harness from 88 and 89 are different, but so far everything plugs in... maybe the dl was 88 manufacture and 89 my

Ancient thread, but when drilling for the ea81 gear, what would be the peferct orientation for the gear on the shaft? Like, everyone says very carefully. But ive read abput others always being 1/2 tooth off. Thanks for the input

What part of nm? Got a cousin who can pass it without even seeing it, just needs the info off the vin tag, but he lives in abq. Mine was like 50 bucks i think, pricey but g2p

The rest of that section of the write up, for your reading pleasure

I'm going to talk largely about the SPFI as it applies to manual transmission applications. The automatic's have an "inhibitor switch" responsible for telling the ECU what state the transmission is in, and a kickdown system with a relay that is controlled by the ECU and operates a solenoid on the side of the transmission. I have no experience with hooking these up, but it seems fairly straightforward - the inhibitor switch looks to be inside the shifter of the EA82, and the kickdown solenoid is on the side of the tranny. Being the EA81 used the same automatic transmission, I'm guessing it wouldn't be a huge deal to hook it up. However I have no exprience with them. The manual transmission setup is what I want to discuss, and specifically the differences between the older black ECU, and the later silver ECU. The black ECU used in 1986 was only used on automatic transmissions according to my research. Only 2WD automatics got the SPFI in 86, and the 2WD 5 speed version was probably either carburated, MPFI, and possibly some turbo models. 4WD's did not begin receiving the SPFI system till the 88 model year (late 87). This makes the 86 ECU unsuitable for anything but automatic installations, and the wiring harness has some unusual connectors for things like the distributor, coolant temp sensor, 02 sensor, and possibly some others. Personally I avoid this early 86 system's wireing harness, and ECU because of these differences. They are, fortunately, pretty rare as well but it's important to know the differences in case you do run across one or aquire one for parts. Most of the components other than the wireing and ECU are the same and can be used with later systems either directly, or sometimes by just changing the wireing plug. The black ECU used from 87 to 89 uses only a single neutral switch located on the side of the transmission. This is obviously a problem for the EA81 4WD, 4 speed manual and the 2WD, 5 speed manual because they were never equipped with this switch and sadly have no provision for adding one. Additionally, the 86 and 87 4WD, 5 speed transmissions (a common upgrade for the EA81) do not have the neutral switch either. The 88 and up transmissions should all have the switch as carburators were discontinued after 87 and all the forms of fuel injection require it.

Lol, just do it for the smog test! In this write up it talks about certain manual trans not coming with a neutral switch on it, so maybe yours didnt have one to begin with...

Thank you for the reply tho

Im more curious the auto ecu on manual spfi wiring harness, im gonna grab both harnesses i guess, im going in the morning for the parts so... also the dl wagon has an uncracked digi dash, gray or blue or something, if anyone needs one thats crack free..

Thats whats in the swap write up i was talking about

The neutral switch provides information to the ECU on the gear state of the transmission. It's a simple switch that is closed when in gear, and open when not. Some claim that not hooking this switch up at all is "ok", but I prefer to hook as much up as I can as it's not possible for us to look into the ECU's software and forsee all possible consequences of the alternative, and even though it might run fine, the ECU will complain with a "check engine" lamp after driving for only a few miles. Also if another component fails it could setup a scenario where the ECU is forced into "limp mode" due to too many system failures when it would not otherwise have done so had the neutral switch code not been present. Thus I sugest you make every effort to install the system the way it was intended to be installed. One solution I've found with a transmission that does not have the switch is to use a clutch pedal switch used with EA81's and EA82's (and possibly others) to control the cruise control. This switch is shaped like a bolt with two nuts on it and it threads into the stop-bolt location on the clutch pedal. Just like the transmission neutral switch, the cruise control switch is designed to be closed when the clutch is released (in gear), and open when the clutch is engaged (neutral). So as a surrogate neutral switch it works well, and is acceptable enough to the ECU to prevent the code 51 error indicating the ECU can't find the switch.

Im not as experienced as these guys, but to my understanding when retrofitting a spfi system onto a carbed car, the fix for the neutral switch error code is to put a switch under your clutch pedal, zome cars have a switch there not connected to anything fromthe factory i guess, but like i said im sure ill be corrected but im doing a spfi swap into my ea81 hatch and swear i read this

I have a spfi from an 88 gl and can get an ecu for an 89 dl, will they wirk together, spfi and my car are manual, ecu is auto with cruise, im going to fi in my ea81 hatch. Also the donor dl has a . Uncracked digi dash if anyone needs one (blue) i can get it when i grab the ecu. Thanks guys

So I've heard you guys talk about "just get it shipped from Japan" where does one find a website to order things from Japan firstly and does anyone know where to order some of those Japanese fenders with the mirror notches for the leone, or whatever it is?

Are you doing anything with your spfi harness and ecu leftover? Lol. For real, that looks reallt clean and nicely done, you can do my 87 ea81 hatch next .

Ok thank you, i thought i had read they breathe better, bur ive read like 500 threads on this site over the last like week or so, so its getting a lil fuzzy. Sorry for the typos btw

I have a cha ce to get a pretty complete ea81t from an experimental aircraft guy, for 100$, but he doesn't really know anything about it before it was pulled so wondering what you guys think, im building a. Ea81 with spfi pistons didnt know if the turbo heads are better, also the onlt dr 5 spd i can find is 265k and leaking, anyone have one in decent shape? Or have any experience getting one rebuilt, is it worth it or just pray i find a better one, thx superoooooo!

For some reason the first thing to go in most cars at my local pap is the ecu, same thing when i had my civic and my 83 320i, and theres a guy with a datsun shop who religiously searches for the r160 lsd, im lucky i pulled the manifold and everything on it and other misc stuff for the swap before someone else beat me to it. And the ones im finding on ebay are n/a but i dont have the part number, i got my stuff from an 88 gl wagon if anyone can give me the part number for the ecu from the fsm i can find one on ebay prolly