
wrxsubaru
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I tried to bleed my brakes using the way a chiltons manule say to do it, but now my SVXs brake pedal can go about half the way down before it starts to really work, and it does not have a huge amount of stopping power, it cant get near locking the brakes up, i know it had alot more sopping power before i did it. I had to bleed the brakes becasue i had to take off the brake master cylinder when i was doing the 5spd swap, are you spose to do it another way?
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US-vs-ROW
wrxsubaru replied to JEGIII's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Yeah and you can get low range. -
I talked to the dealer guy and he siad you could swich the yoke but it would screw with the bearing settings onthe input shaft and you wouldhave to re torq them sothere was 6 foot inches of resistance to spin the shaft. Is this true? I am using a 1 gen legacys 5spd becasue it was extremly cheap, and i couldalwaythrough in another cable operated 5spd in if it breaks or grinds bad.
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I am doing a 5spd swap in my SVX today i was hoping to finish so i was working on it. I was putting on my drive shaft and it went into the trannie with no problems, but then i tried to put the 2 inch extension on the drive shaft ( 5spd is about 2 inches shorter ) and bolt it up to the rear diff, i was trying to put the bolts through when i noticed that the drive shaft extension had a larger diameter than the diff bolt patern part, then i tried to put the bolt through it and sure enough the bolts would not fit, i could only get one in. So i spent about 1/2 and hour looking and tring to see if i could get it to fit, i figured the bolt holes werent evenly spaced out, unseccesull i went inside and measured my old diff from the auto, the circle were you bolt it to the drive shaft was about 3.25 inches, I then went out side and meared my new diff, it was only at most 3 inches. I got all of my stuff from a 90 legacy wagon with a 4.11 diff ratio, the stock rear end on a SVX is 3.545, both are r 160 diffs or should be. Whats wrong???
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I dont want to want damage the bearings any more than i have to sence they already have 190,000 on them, and i dont have a torch handy i will try this later if it comes down to it. I sprayed some penetrating mystery oil, in there right before i put it all back togher so hopefully that will help. Were getting a new rotor to put in so i guess iam going to try the pushing method again hopefully I dont break the rotor again. I think iam going to try the bfh idae but it will hard not to hit the studs, and other parts.
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Ive done half shafts before about 10 in all from the 1 gen legacys to SVXs, but my aunts 92 legacy half shafts were not greased by the person who put them in,so splines on the half shaft have rusted to the hub making removal very difficult. I already did the passanger side, it was rusted and i ended up using a steering wheel puller to push it through. On the drivers side half shaft i tryed hitting it with a hammer, no luck, tried pushing it with the sterring wheel puller( first time broke a bolt on the sterring wheel puller, then i got stronger bolts and ripped a pice of the rotor out) I have no other ideas on how to do it. Any one have a good way?
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I was working on the 5spd pedal assembley(90 legacy assembley) when the spring poped out of the pedal assembley. I have no idea were it goes, there are to holes that kind of work but when the clutch pedal is deppressed completly the spring holds the pedal down. Does any one know how to and were to put the spring in.