CaptainDub

I don't have experience with a Brat but maybe go somewhere in the middle like 3-4" lift. Should be a bit less stress on everything and you can still put some good size tires on it.

Crawl under it and look at the shift linkages while someone moves the shifter in the car. Check out this parts diagram to identify bushings, It shows every bushing in the shifter assembly. Also the coupler that attaches to the transmission shift rod with a spring pin gets worn and will be loose. it doesn't have a bushing but If that's not tight on the shaft you'll have to either cut the coupler and put a bolt through to tighten it up or just tap through the coupler and the shaft for a 3/8 bolt.

That's exactly what I did on my 5Spd D/R, now it's solid! I also changed most of the shifter bushings while I had it all out.

Have you looked here? http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ EA82 Service Manual part 2 has all the Engine wiring stuff.

I'm about 3 months late on this and the issue may be resolved but here's what I know. Check your clutch cable adjustment, maybe it's too tight and isn't disengaging the clutch all the way. For the Pressure plate, the XT6 and EA82 PP are the same. The extra clamping force you're looking for comes from having the step on the flywheel machined to .815 which is the XT6 spec. This is what I did for my clutch, we'll see if it works out when I finish my swap.

Not the experience i had. I had to drill out the holes for the locating pins as they were too small and the holes for the pitch stopper bracket don't align with my bracket.

I need a new center timing cover for my EJ22 that is out of a 93 Legacy. I see several different part numbers for what looks to be the exact same timing cover. They range in price from around $30-$100 and all look the same. I'd like to get the cheap one but not if it doesn't fit right. Can anyone confirm if there is any real difference between timing covers from different years. The part I technically need is 13570AA052 but the cheapest one i find that looks identical is 13570AA101.

I've got it pulled out now. Name your price!

Just did compression check today. Cylinder 1 - 160 Cylinder 2 - 145 Cylinder 3 - 150 Cylinder 4 - 135 The previous owner resealed it, to what extent I'm not sure but it hasn't put a drop of oil on my driveway in the 5 months it's been there. It's out of an 86 GL. It's got the Hitachi carb which was just rebuilt. As far as mileage I'm told it's around 180k. I've only put a few hundred on since I've had it.

Sounds like you need to pick up my EA82 out of my Loyale after I do my EJ swap in the next month or so. I'm in Kansas city so a short 3 hr drive from nebraska.

In my 94 Loyale wagon the Auto seatbelts were removed but the control module was still causing a significant drain on the battery I could pull the horn,clock,hazard fuse and the drain would go away but I wouldn't have horn, clock, or hazard so I just unplugged the module and i haven't had an issue since. The module is located behind the rear plastic trim behind/above the wheel well.

Probably not much help but I have a similar problem in my 94 Loyale. The fuel gauge goes up a little with every flash of my right turn signal so It usually looks like I have a full tank. There must be a short somewhere between the right turn signal wiring and fuel sender wires. Perhaps yours is also related to a short elsewhere in the vehicle wiring?

I have the Chiltons but the only spec it shows for the loyale is resting pedal height of 6.22" and free play. What I would need is pedal stroke spec. If anyone can find the factory spec for the loyale brake pedal stroke please post it.

No idea how old the alternator is. The car has 135k but the engine is said to have 185ish. This might also explain the erratic fluttering of the voltmeter and the meter doesn't hop up past 12 until I rev it past 2k. I have a spare alternator, I'll try that out and see if it goes away.

My 94 loyale failed state inspection due to a few issues. The minor ones have been fixed but the ones I can't figure out are the following. Brake light is on when you start the car every time until you rev past 2000 then it goes off and won't come back on until you restart Actually all warning lights are on when started but the brake light is the one failing me. MC is full of fluid. If the inspector doesn't rev it then he just sees the light and doesn't know why. Is this a normal behavior or is something else going on electrically? The bigger concern is the brake pedal travel. He said he puts his foot under the brake pedal and if the pedal touches his foot then it's too far to the floor. The brakes feel good, not spongy and it seems to stop fine. I bled the brakes and checked the rear cylinders and the auto adjusters seem to be functioning properly with no binding. At rest the pedal sits at 6.25" and fully compressed it's about 3.5". Is this considered low or is my inspectors boot just too big? I've considered going elsewhere to get it inspected where I know they'll pass it regardless but I also want my vehicle to be safe.

I just recently got a 94 Loyale with a carbed 86 EA82 in it so some of the info will be useful for me in the future so I just downloaded the whole site using HTTrack. It makes the site viewable offline. There are other whole website downloaders but HTTrack is the first I came accross and it worked great.