superu

The "quill" is the part of the Aluminum bellhousing that surrounds the inputshaft of the tranny where the throwout bearing rides. So apparently that can get some wear, steel bearing riding on Al shaft can lead to wear on the Al part.... THIS they've designed a retrofit sleeve (steel) to fit over the worn quill and provide a steel surface for the bearing...problem is now it's an oversize outside diameter shaft for the bearing, so they designed an oversize bearing to fit onto the steel sleeve. BUT you can't get JUST an oversize bearing.... It's part of the whole clutch kit.... so (as far as i've been able to figure) to get an oversize bearing, you need to get an entire clutch kit which comes with the oversized bearing = MORE $$... Can't just get a $164 clutch kit plus an oversized bearing... the oversized bearing clutch kit is like $240. . . At any rate, here's the retrofit sleeve on the quill (fitted on my 99 OB 5MT) And here's the quill from my 95 5MT

copy that. . . .

right! Sorry to contribute to a diversion [quote name=monstaru NOW' date=' went on a road trip to an interview this weekend.she handled well even at 75mph.no sway bars was a skosch crazy next to semi's, but she powered through.it's amazing the topend power that i get with big rump roast tires at like 65 and up....nuts.top speed was about 90 passing a convoy of trucks.... people were looking at me like WTF!It was awesome.got several honks, head nods and waves from enthusiasts. cheers, b[/quote] Man, dual range with locking center!! all over again plus all the other crazy goodness... I get moist reviewing this build So, is that turning a 2.2 or 2.5? And what EJ/RX hybridizing did you do? I forgot, started reviewing the thread, then got lazy PLUS, what's the final drive now? I just swapped for an OB 5MT to get 4.11s (and regain reverse and report similarly as you, regarding handling at speed and regaining the power in the top of 5th (not to mention the bottom of 1st-3rd), that I'd lost with the tire upsize. anyhoo, props again

Aah.. right! I remember that meaty tire squeezed in there... Would the tires hit the fender? then strut top spacers (http://www.subtle-solutions.com/product_info.php?products_id=107) would do it. Or would the tires hit the lower spring perch? then you need a shorter tire profile... maybe 28.5"-29" max? good work, auto, lift, welded rear diff!! (sorry for thread diversion

Hmm. . . Makes me think I do have one, just burned out bulb or blown fuse... but everything else seems to work fine... I thought it was a little LED or tiny bulb. But then I saw there's the same little button symetrically on top, next to the "F" My guage is horribly inaccurate (again). I go like 50 miles for the first 1/4 tank, but by the time I fill up (with 11 gals, i.e. only 3/4 tank) I've gone 330 miles... I dunno, shrug...

Hmm, an interesting idea. That actually sounds like a fun project.. 1.8L FWD IMP with 4EAT running SVX 3.54 ring and pinion... 34+ MPG anyone?

No, I think I'm the confused one... I probably "never saw the light" I'm pretty sure we (95) don't have a light.... It looks like Tom modded his instuments.. "Yeah I swapped the Fuel gauge from a "Real" Outback thinking that was my issue, that's why its red" And I think that got him a light... I guess we (the rest of us 95'ers) just need to watch the mileage and not hope for the light. I've stalled out at least once "looking for the light"

Hey you have a light for "low fuel"!! I thought I did, as in I think I saw it once like 7 yeara ago when i bought the car...but then I've never seen it again... (confused)... AND, sweet hood!!

Ahh yes. So then it's electronically controlled and not viscous? So, while the RX had a locking center diff (covet covet), and all other FT AWDs are Viscous center diffs, the DCCD is electronically controlled and made for race use/abuse and therefore wouldn't be an economically viable or functionally good center diff "lock" option for off road use, right?

So, how does or does that account for the VCCD (if those are the right letter?) variable center diff. STIs had that "dial-a-center ratio" right, but not WRXs?

right! quote=91Loyale;1020159] Oh, and there's no 3.54 front ring and pinion sets available. The wrx's that had 3.54 rear diffs had 3.9 front diffs, and 1.1:1 rear transfer gear sets, so it was effectively 3.9 all round. that was bugeye WRX or all of them? I kind of remember that WRX's had a different front:rear split from NA 5MTs... the different gearing would explain it like you said then. didn't the SVX have some weird FD ratio too? and they were all autos too. "luxury coupe" and all

teehee

Right! This is what I thought, not quite the easiest affair.

Soo that's where the coup went... Welcome! I've been wondering (just not digging too much )

I've seen some of your posts and pix but I've been wondering why you don't want to do a lift... You've squished some meaty mud terrains in there haven't you? Anyhoo, strut top spacers are like $215 shipped, and of course OB struts would be better but also more $$, then there's 2nd gen forester strut assemblies. just curious...

Yes Bennie, I highly recommend it, especially with your 1.59 low swap but given the choices for your box, check your 5th gear ratio... Apparently OB 5ths here (at least 1st gen OBs (96-99 here)) had .871 whereas foresters, some impreza RSs and my 895 legacy (not too sure about other earlier ones) had a .780 5th. So just a thought about overdrive gears... That .780 might be a better highway gear but it might not have much oomph for slight (5-6%) grades... Just a thought. Now I'm able to climb stuff I couldn't pull with 3.90's and that's with NO low gear!! this is about as far as i could pull this hill with 3.90s and 27" tires but just the .21 difference of 4.11s I pulled the entire hill and with some power left!! I'm working on cutting a couple video to upload... But, I'm still looking for a D/R EJ 5MT to import, but now I can put that on the back burner and really wait until the one I want comes around (97-98 fozzie). Well, 250, but who's counting? It's not too bad overall, and 3500 RPM doesn't feel as bad as i thought it would, so no probs doing 75 on the interstate, if I need to. AND I have a WAY more powerful 5th!! Where I used to have to downshift [on the highway] for hills and grades to make it up are no problem in 5th, at speed, even with a/c on!! I'm psyched! OOH, and now my speedo is pretty accurate too! Now instead of 5% under, it's about 1% over, so it reads a % or so faster than I'm actually going...

Yeah, i remember chatting with you about this lifting stuff a few years ago... What are you in now?

so by "that's it", you mean to swap FD ratios you "just" open the box (transmission main case) and get the ring gear and it's pinion gear out of the front diff? Likewise one "could" change any diff's final drive by swapping the ring and pinon gears, but in practicality why do that when you could swap diffs (axle issues aside)?

success.... I buttoned it up a couple days ago, then after some hill holder and clutch cable adjusting. I took it for a spin! I reinstalled skidplate today and will take it on a trail run tomorrow (long canyon in Moab). So, here's my report: clutch kit spec'd for an EJ22 (carquest 15-004) and the oversize bearing that came with the OB tranny was my final setup... I took it for a drive today and here's the quick and dirty... 4.11s are awesome!! Mine are paired with 27" tires = fantastic!!! I don't really notice a difference in the seat, but I sure do notice the difference in the shifting, more accurately the LACK of downshifting on grades I couldn't pull previously without downshifting in the stock 3.90 FD with 27" ATs. EJ22 with 3.90 FD, 70 MPH @ 3000 RPM (Actual speed 75MPH but VERY weak 5th gear with respect to hills!) EJ22 with 4.11 FD (99 OB 5MT), 65 MPH @ 3000 RPM EJ22 with 4.11 FD (99 OB 5MT), 70 MPH @ 3250 RPM EJ22 with 4.11 FD (99 OB 5MT), 75 MPH @ 3500 RPM EJ22 with 4.11 FD (99 OB 5MT), 80 MPH @ about 3750 RPM 5th has more pull (a confound or combination of 4.11 FD with the shorter OB overdrive ratio (.871 vs. .780) than the stock setup with oversize tires. I think all in all it's deffintely more like what stock would be, save the higher top end on the interstate... But I have no need to go 80 MPH (I'm not in my late teens through mid 20s anymore. So, that's my story and m I'm sticking to it!

Sooo, I read more about the OB trannies and people aren't too excited about the high revs on the highway, since I got a 99 OB (would have preferred a forester but wasn't sure why) to swap for my stock 95 legacy's 5MT with a failed reverse gear. The story is that my 95 legacy's 5th is .780 ratio and outbacks (from the top of my head, at least the first gen OB and maybe 2nd. . . I just need to reference the subaru tranny chart to verify that) 5th gear is .871. Foresters have the same 5th as my 95 legacy (.780) and later Impreza RSs are also 4.11 FD withth etaller overdrive 5th gear (.780), starting around 03? Previous RSs, like OBS are 3.90 FD. While small, combined with the 4.11 FD it amounts (crunching the numbers) to about 250 RPM at the same speed. SSOOOO . . . . . . . AT LAST, I answered my question! My research, the info and number crunching from others and my suspicions are confirmed! 4.11s are great with 27" tires!!! I don't really notice a difference in the seat, but I sure do in the shifting, more accurately the LACK of downshifting on grades I couldn't pull previously without downshifting in the stock 3.90 FD. Here are some quick pix while driving at various speeds. EJ22 with 3.90 FD, 70 MPH @ 3000 RPM (Actual speed 75MPH but VERY weak 5th gear with respect to hills!) EJ22 with 4.11 FD (99 OB 5MT), 65 MPH @ 3000 RPM EJ22 with 4.11 FD (99 OB 5MT), 70 MPH @ 3250 RPM EJ22 with 4.11 FD (99 OB 5MT), 75 MPH @ 3500 RPM YAY for confirmation!! I thought about swapping my legacy's 5th gear. BUT through more investigating (mostly online and picking the minds that know about 5MT internals), I found out 99 trannies had some big internal redesigns and the 5th gear and its bearings might not swap from 95 to 99. Although apparently the 5th gear is NOT in the main tranny case, it's in the rear case (housing the center diff), so that would've made it a bit easier... BUT, i'd need a press, maybe machining ability if things did't fit, etc. wetc. and so on... SOOOO, I'll happily roll with this OB tranny while I continue my hunt for a dual range EJ (ideally a 4.11, so I won't have to get into the main gears and front diff to swap that out, just the low gear set, depending on the D/R 5MT I end up getting) Soo, thank to all who've helped me on this hunt.

Hmmm, curious. . . . what trans and diff does thatswhatshesaid have going on?

Awesomeness!! That's what I was hoping to hear. Today's goals: mount clutch install tranny and rear end. I'll continue to gather axle bits then do the LSD later, but priority one get the car on the ground and driving again.

AMS (the makers of most OE clutch kits, and supplier for carquest) said the toyota bearings are less than ideal as they don't fit the clutch fork retaining spring. BUT the newer kits have a Subaru-appropriate bearing that fits the spring correctly. this is what I'm told. That's cool, where did you get that sticker? was it part of your retrofit kit? When i saw that on this outback, I didn't know what it meant and considered taking the sticker but forgot to grab it when I got into taking out the rear end. Sumo parts huh? I'm not familiar with that one. But What you say makes sense about reusing the old bearing. This one fits the retaining spring, spins WAY better than my 2-year old exedy bearing (which was missing one retaining spring for the fork and doesn't fit the retrofit quill sleeve anyway) The clutch went with the engine the day before I saw and responded to the "part-out" ad, so I had not chance on getting the clutch too BUT I've got a new clutch anyway, and today's goal is get the tranny back in the car... I'll deal with my rear diff upgrades later when I get the right axles to make that happen. AMS also said there is NO [physical or capability] difference between the 15-010 clutch kit (spec'd for 99 OB with EJ22, also spec'd for my 95 legacy with EJ22) and the 15-040 clutch kit (spec'd for 99 OB with EJ25... Well really that's the kit for ALL NA EJ25 5MT Subarus). He said the difference was a minor and meaningless OE specification difference of approximately 1/4" inner diameter difference in the clutch cover's spline opening. NO HP or torque capability difference, identical clutch, throwout and crank bearing part numbers. SOOO, for a $40 difference in price, I got the kit spec'd for the EJ22 (which is what theis OB tranny will be behind anyway Updates tonight, hopefully :thumbs up:

I'll hold you to your word! I don't want no axles separating when I'm flying around a FS road or stompin' it in a rally cross! I'm going to try to get it all back together and on the ground tomorrow then gather axle parts and do the LSD swap at a later date... But seriously, thanks for the beta on the gen 1 leggo axles! I'm psyched I'll probably get to keep and use this CLSD!:banana:

Hells yeah! The bearing that came withthe tranny seems fine, so I was planning on reusing it, but a new one would be better. I saw that sticker on the car and didn't know enough then to know what it was describing....but NOW I do! My parts store can't get the oversized throughout bearing alone. Standard bearing alone yes, oversized only omes with the WHOLE clutch kit, and at a primium cost.. Is it a Subaru part number? thanks man, -mark-