lmdew

The mounts are different. Hit the yard a grab a drivers side. You can change the motors from side to side, but you may have a hard time getting the fan off the motor.

12 mm I don't have the pitch. They are about 2" long. I'd just hit the yard and pull another set.

Yes, just clean and grease the ball joint and put the good boot on. The top retaining ring is hard to get on. I safety wire it instead. I'd just clean the seal, lightly grease it and leave it as is. If its in good condition no reason to change it.

The rev Clutch packs do go out. I'd take it to a good trans shop and get them to check it out. Most do it for free. 5sp swap is a good way to go if you are going to keep it.

I'd post this over at NASIOC.com. More in line with that group and the mods you've done.

That's normal. I've had shops leave the hose off and the car will not run. It will start but that's about it. The best way to clean the IAC is to remove it and you can then clean the complete valve. I have run SeaFoam through and it works pretty good. I pull the hose, pour some seafoam in and then put the hose back on. Start it up, you will have to give it some throttle but it will run. You have to do this a couple of times.

Yes, I cut out a section from a 97 OBS that was in a wreck and I parted. I have both sides. About 6" high by 12" long.

I always anti-size the bolts when I put them in even in CO.

90 - 99 2.2 and the center cover from the 2.5 will all fit. The newer 2 part 2.2 will not work. They are not to expensive from the Dealer.

Don't drop the pan its not necessary, but do flush the transmission. Some here like to drain and fill 3 tiimes with driving it for short intervals in between drain and fills. I like to drain, then pull the radiator trans hose and put it into a empty gallon jug. Fill the transmission and then start the car. Pump about a half of gallon out, then shut off the car. Fill the transmission again and repeat until you have clean fluid coming out. This usually takes 3 to 4 gallons of Trans fluid. Good luck with it.

Grip Force, I've bought 6 or more as well. Great service and fast shipping. Check out thier online store as well.

Anyone ever deal with this code? It's on a 98 Impreza Wagon. Thanks Larry

Have you flushed the trans? Does the FWD light come on when you put the fuse in? If the light comes on the C-Duty coil is good, but it could be a plugged valve. New fluid may take care of the problem. There is a gasket for the C-Duty and I'd get 3 gallons of fluid so you can flush the trans when you put it back together.

Over on the passenger side strut tower on the front side. Look at your emissions sticker on the inside of the hood.

They are easy, if you get the stock plug Subaru Sensors. If you live in the rust belt, use some PK Blaster and soak the threads a few days before you want to change them. Get a 7/8" tubing wrench or the special O2 sensor socket and remove the old one and put the new one in. You have one on the front cat, just behind the axle on the passenger side and one on the rear cat under the car. You might want to clear the codes and see if they come back. I'd start with the front O2 sensor and then see if you need the rear one as well.

pull the fuse for the brake lights and see if it still happens. If pulling the fuse fixes it you have a short in the brake lights somewhere.

To bad you did not post last week, I was in Saint George UT, just down the road. Sounds like the IAC to me. No codes but when they stick it can cause high or low idle. Dose it have a 1.8 or 2.2 engine? If she puts it in N does it still die? What's the RPM when it idles? Should be lots of USMB members in UT. Larry

My 98 OBS is rusted in the rear quarters but the strut towers are solid. IMHO the problems is the 3 or 4 layers of metal that all come together here. Any moisture/salt that gets in there never comes out. If you cut and weld, you have to work out a ways from the wheelwell so you can get the inner and outter metal welded up. I have some rear panels about 6 x 12" for a 98 OBS if you need them

Yep, expect some lifter noise as it can take days for them to pump back up sometime. I run 5-30W and they have always pumped back up for me. If it's a car you are keeping long term it's nice to to the routine maintenace while it's out. - Re seal the breather cover on the back of the engine - Valve cover Seals - timing belt, cam and crank seals - Oil Pump Screws and oring - plugs Then drop it in and you are good for 80K. I've also dropped them in with just doing the rear breather and made sure it runs well. All the other stuff can be done while the engine is in the car. Your call.

To be safe, I'd get another one, used is OK as they never fail. Let it all the way out and then slowly compres it. I use a wood handscrew clamp. Put a little pressure on it, let it set, put a little more pressure on it, let it set. In answer to your question, if you compres it quickly it will bind a the viscus fluid inside stops the movement.

I got one and then instead of $20 they wanted $65 so I told the yard they could keep it. So much for that adventure. Larry

I do not have one but I could pull one from the yard in CO. Let me know if you want me to do that. I'm going Friday.

Not that I know of. If the ABS was not working the Light should be on. It just dumps brake pressure, if it's off all pressure is routed to the brakes.

I've been very happy with the Grip Force Clutch kits off Ebay as well. I've put 6 or more in and they have been very good. Have the flywheel ground as well. About 50/50 on pulling the engine or Transmission. If you have any engine work to do, t belt, seals... pull the engine. Seal the Breather plate on the back of the block while you have access to it. I like the aluminum plates but those are getting harder to find. The Subaru Stampped steel kit with screws are about $20.

I'll check when i get back to COS. $60 shipped, work for you? Larry