the_postie

88 tourer ej22 + vtd auto 4.44 diffs 2" lift 27" tyres Cargo barrier,bullbar,swing out spare carrier and more

Not to0 sure what you guys are up to.I can tell ya that power up the duty c in tt box,this box is vtd different to the awd clutch pack normally found in 4eat,fully locks the rear but in a standard 4eat unlocks.This box{vtd }you can spin the rear wheels while the front is braked.Lock the back in and it behaves almost like a rear wheel drive car.On road you can have no input to the rear transfer[speed sensor dissconnected] and it behaves like open centre diff front to rear,like a range rover box.The vtd extension can be added to a standard 4eat box but requires a different tcu or a bit custom electrical work.These are great offroad espically with a 3000 rpm stall:burnout:Even if you don't lock the rear it will go most places.

the 4.44 came with and without stubs.The early aus rs had 4.44 with stubs.I've got a late 4.44 lsd female style diff in my 88 wagon.i used the wrx inner cup and the ball and race from the legacy is the same as the ea ,so it slips staight onto the ea shaft.

i have used subaru upper engine cleaner.Yes there is a improvement.This is the stuff you spray into the throttle body.

to test the connecter at the ecu use sewing pins pressed into the wires you want to test ,connect wire to these and alligater clips.

Working on this myself.I'll be coming from the front of bullbar to back of tranny and will replace the sump guard as well.My tranny x member is custom so is plenty strong enought to mount off.At this stage it'll consist of 2 light weight rails with alloy checker plate attached.Something i'm a bit of a beliver in is making a guard the will absorb impact and not transfer the most of the impact back to the mounting points or into what you are trying to protect.

i've had similar probs.Check the ignition relay.This supplies power to the iac also to the o2 sensor and the purge.This is what was happening in my case the relay was letting about 3 volts thru to the side that supplies o2 iac and purge and full voltage to ign side ,it showed as a 35 and 24 code .I could tap it or turn it off and it would sometimes work.Once the relay was replaced the problem went away.

.Good call.Would never thought of looking at the hub.Got a similar thing happening on right hand turns,guess i'll be pulling the hubs.

Sounds like you've nearly got it sorted.You are gunna love the low end offroad.Any ea ej'd is a absolute pleasure to drive.

the ecu grounds the relay to turn the fans on.

88 touring wagon ej22 + auto converted to vtd transfer with lockable centre 4.44 vlsd 3.5" rear lift 2" front rear wheel carrier,alloy bullbar future mods 5 stud and 4" lift 15" wheels.

hers 3 ways of fitting 5 stud on the back without xt6 parts. 1/ turn down aset of ea drums to remove the drum and make hub like the legacy. redrill 5 stud pattern space legacy backing plate to suit[this one gets a bit of feedback] 2/machine out spline section of ea drum [you need the spline part intact] machine out legacy hub to except spline ,pin and weld. 3/legacy hubs can be resplined to suit the ea spline. all the above needs accesss to lathe and mill

22 replace knocksensor. 24 clean out with upper cylinder cleaner sprayed into the bac where the air lines connect. 35 put a resister inthe wiring and block up the connection at the throttle body that goes to the cannister

heres one in action.Its unstoppable offroad only got ea81 motor and running gear

burrs on the clutch hub,if you dump it a lot the the clutches groove the hub and it looks like they can't operate properly ,bad design for hoons good for grandma,VTD rear transfer much better design.

re rough idle.BAC give it a clean.Check ignition relay,without going into to much detail one side can play up[powers the o2 sensor, bac and purge sol] by not letting enough volts thru and cause havoc on idle and even cause the engine to run on 3 cylinders sometimes shows as code 24 or 35 or both.Then it will come good and then................

http://www.crossbredperformance.com/all is not lost.We have a guy in aus who manufactures brand new hubs to fit 5 stud on the older subes.Maybe you could get some one over your way to do the same.oops seen poormans post. Brat's website above

Sure does .Was used when a mate[buddy, friend] shouted[brought a round of drinks] drinks.You gotta love aussie slang.

i've dropped the diff 2" ,front mount spaced,the shocks 3.5" the rear crossmember 2" the centre bearing 1.5".The propshaft doesn't like its angles changed if its done a few miles.The setup i'm making for the centre bearing now is to get the propshaft to run in a str8 line.Pretty much like Phiz is describing.

the rad wiring is your choice.Mine is hooked up to the ea sensor.Most of my mates have a permanent fan on ,brumbies and ea's,with a overide for off.From memory the ej ecu and the standard thermo switch turn on at the same temp.

Not a 100% sure but i think the 89 rad is different to the 87.

did the check engine light come on?

i used the mpfi pump that was already in my car when swapped to ej didn't remove anything.What probs does the regulater cause if left in ?This is the first i have heard of it,i've seen a few conversion and nobody mention it.

you've got to put a resister,can't remember the ohms, in the wiring that goes to the ecu it'll fault code and run a bit rough.What it does is open that line up from the canister back to the throttle body to purge the vapor/fuel thats in the canister.I know guys that have run without it.You'll need it if you want to get your conversion complianced.Might smell a bit fuelly.

Yes it can be done.I have seen a ej converted ea82 with working a/c.it was done by using the ej compressor and fitting the ej ends onto the ea hoses[ground off ea ones and ej ones recrimped done by a hydraulic hose specialist]The ea wiring was used to fire the system up it didn't have idle up control but this was accomplissed by using the cruise actuator.A mate has seen the ea compressor grafted onto a ej motor but it requires custom mounting brackets.