the_postie

purge control solnoid.yeah you can dissconnect ,stick a resistor in the wiring so no fault codes and crap runnining and plug the hoses.But if its working leave it in there its there for a reason.

Grab a tape measure and head off to a wrecking yard look for a 87 nissan pulsar,it has the right size outlets in the right spot its alloy and plastic and keeps the motor cooler than the ej rad up the beach;) i know it fits in a ea should be alright in a MY.Cheap too I'm running a 2 1/4" resonator and cannon its got a nice boxer note but may be a bit loud for what you a re looking for ,however my wife reckons it makes young fella's drop there jaws when she's doing the shopping in it.

The driveshaft shop told me two piece is a better option,less likely to resonate or vibarate.Phizinza the is a good pic on Ausubaru of the conversion no welding required just some flat plate bolted in.Look for Dazza.

Normally you would match the tcu to the box.internally early 4eat are the same ,the tcu changes were for the shifting characteristics.Yes if you already have a 4eat in there swapping in another from the same era or gen will work with your existing tcu.Yes watch the diff ratio.Also the 3at didn't use a tcu so it won't have the plugs on the box.I've got a sweet running 4eat running a different tcu and vtd rear transfer but it took a bit R and R to get going.

I had a turbo xmember when i dropped a ej22 in and the header pipe would hit on the scalloped side of the xmember as it hung lower.I ended up swapping in a N/A xmember and everything cleared with a bit of tapping on the heatsheild.

nissen solnoids are the same they just got to change the connector over to the subaru one and also are about a third of the price

The later ones have the same housing and mounting points as the early diff [ea and ej],all you are changing is the studs on the rear cover for the shorter ea ones or you can swap the whole cover over.I wanted a early one but later ones were more available.I got mine from japan thru a importer it came with the cups attached and they had gas axed the shafts off. Some one over here has fitted a complete impressa rear end into a brumby/brat by making a subframe/cradle and bolting it onto the rear end mounting points.Its doable if you got the gear.

in Aus you can get both male and female style 4.44 diffs.Early turbo auto's legacy had the male style and the later had female.I am running a 4.44 vlsd in my 88 wagon. For axles first i tried the late ea with the cv outer the ea shaft joined to the cup that came with the 4.44 diff using the ball and cage from that cup[the ea and legacy ball and cage are the same] however this pulled the cup out of the diff,not enough side ways movement with travel.Now i'm running the early style ea doj on the outer the ea shaft and the same inner setup as described above and have not had any problems. I have also dropped the diff a touch to take the the bigger angles out of the driveshafts,but i think with doj at both ends their should be enough movement nott to rip the cups out.Another fella over here has taken ea diff stubs out and machined slots into them to fit the internal circlip of the ej diff ,their is a left and a right with the ej,and fitted them in with success.

i made a adapter to mount the ea sender in the top hose,but ended up just using the ej one after the ea one would move up and quickly with the slightest increase in temp.

pin 6 on the g/box plug controls the lock up solnoid,up until a 95 model at least ,after that i don't know.

vechicle: 88 gl converted to ej22 and 95 vtd auto awd modded electrics to run box ,tranny history unknown came from a front cut about 80 000km.oil changed twice in 2 weeks Originally it didn't lockup or change gears and slipped but drove in reverse and drive,but that has been put down to no speed sensor signal.i am not convinced that it is electronic related,as it is quiet with about 4 litres of fluid and as you add to bring the level up half way between low and full the noise comes in whether the tcu is plugged in or not.Put it in gear it is still there but not as noticable.

got a rattle coming from the auto[tt vtd].It sounds like the torque conv noise when its low on fluid.BUT this noise only comes in as it starts to get the right level of fluid in the box.Also if do the old stetho trick it sounds like its coming from inside the diff housing.can't road test the car but on stands it now shifts gears. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

my temp sender is in adapter going to the rad,my fan switch is still in place and as a backup i plan on fitting a aftermarket temp gauge using the spot where the ej the sender is.

aus spec plug colours,whats needed inside car. 4 yellow ecu plugs. 2 small black plugs [single wire] for fault codes 2 small green[single wire] for fault codes 1 big black plug[red/black,black,light green/red,lght green/yellow,white/red,green/white] select monitor 1 off yellow tan plug[black/red,black/red,light green/red,blue/yelow,white,green white,yellow/red] check plug 1 green plug[fuel pump relay] 1 brown plug[ign relay] if you delve into auto madness there's lots more wires and plugs[i have]

auto turbo ej in aus but mines out of twin turbo

just fitted 4.44 into ea.you use the cups attached to the diff with your ea shafts and outers.a simple but messy 10 minute job.

a mate of mine was running chains from the front to the control arm.over here we can mod ford[local model] radius rods which r stronger to fit ,but them the next weakest link is where the mounting plate bolts to the floor which can be rienforced.

mate if its the way you want t to go do it.if you can get a zuke sierra with a commodore eng hilux diffs 33'' tyres etc rego engineered i can't see why you couldn't get your sube done.i'm hoping to squeeze a total of bout 5" lift and 28 or 29" tyres on my ea wag which now runs a ej22 and a vtd auto.Guess the trick is to make it look like its meant to be like that.some of the libs around my way sit up in the clouds of course not 8 inches but.

i few have tried to fit 4.44 in the front.4.11 seem to fit ok as in pinion angles,4.44 it don't match.i know someone who has built a 4.11 awd dual range box,but its hasn't been fitted.also spoke to aguy that said he got 4.44 to work but required a whole lot of machining.the rears just get amatching diff i've just fitted a4.44 vlsd with the female shafts in a 88 wagon one of the easiest jobs i've done.

good job on the intake ,very factory looking.

looking forward to that pic of the maf to ea box.i'm at that stage right now.

someone overhere has used nolathene bushes which tightens the whole unit up.Another mate is developing them they may even be done .you can try searching him under blackboxmotorsports.com

Cool paint work.Looking good.

http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3325 have alook at this one

come on mate auto's are alright;)just wait till i get this vtd tt auto sorted out in my L and lock up that centre diff:burnout: