MR_Loyale

I still get some rumbling from the right rear tire when I go over bumps. Sometimes at highways speeds if the road is rough the rumbling seems to go for quite a bit. Checked the wheel for play, there was none. Took it off anyway and repacked the bearings. Verified again, no play in the wheel. Bearings seemed fine. Anyone ever have this symptom before?

OK folks, I WAS JOKING about the Fram. I am not that dumb. Well not always.

Buy a Fram. You want "the good stuff".

Ok, first issue since the Uno build. I was so concentrated on the engine that I neglected the wheels. I was driving 30 around a 25 corner, slightly fast i know, but as I went around the turn my rear wheels rumbled as if they were skipping out because of my speed. Took it home and lifted up each rear wheel and tried moving them to see if there was slack. The driver side had a little so I replaced the bearings. It was not easy finding anyone that had a seal in stock. I then took off the passenger side bearings and repacked them as the wheel seemed to get a little too warm. Just got back from a 40 mile drive with lots of highway and no heating and no more skipping. Tomorrow the brakes will be verified and adjusted as needed. Now at 525 since first start.

Excellent thread. Gonna lift my Loyale Ash probably in the fall when I return and I appreciate all the folks reporting their results. I will make it a bit easier for those that follow.

Make sure the transmission is in gear so the splines do not move as you rotate the crank.

Take good care of it and it will do the same for you.

So far over 400 miles on Uno since first start and no issues. Got the hill holder properly adjusted.

I feel you could improve your prospects if you simply took the time to glue the body molding back on. Also your CL pics show a drooping front bumper whereas your ones here show a shiny aligned bumper. First impressions are often the difference between a sale and a pass. Go look online at dealer lots hat are selling Loyales. Most have given them the spit shine. You may be over on the price but your really only have to find one sucker uh er buyer, not 10. Clean it so it sparkles. No missing body panels, no misaligned panels no mismatched panels. Just my opinion.

Nice find. Now get it inside so the elements don't ruin it.

Can you come do my living room floor?

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo. (sniff) Um, is it too soon to ask if you are parting it out? I mean uh er my condolences.

Check this out:

Ok boys and girls, don' be like me. ALWAYS disconnect the battery if you are going to swap alternators. You might fry your fusible link and they are a pain to find. No auto parts stores seem to have the 1.25 fusible link.

Wow. Very nice. Did you use actual wood veneers on the steering wheel or plastic look a like? Looks like a nice burl of some sort.

F those damn corps that ship the jobs off shore to unstable countries and then when the unstable countries have a coup, they come crying to the US government to send those same folks they sent to the unemployment line in to risk their lives rescuing their property. Start holding your lawmakers accountable people! Forget democrats and republicans - THEY ARE ALL THE SAME. Only out for themselves. Be the thorn in their side. Ok, rant off.

Well I took the overheating alternator back to Autozone and the girl at the counter brought out another reconditioned "new" one. Then a male employee came over and tried to talk me out of it being bad claiming that the bearings would be making noise and such. It was triple checked at the factory he said. Yeah, I guess in Malaysia they may have thought Triple Sec not triple check cause this one I KNEW was bad damnit. I told him to put it on his tester and I followed him there and all three of us, the female and male employee and myself watched as the girl loaded the alternator on the tester. It spun up and reported it was BAD on the screen. Voltage too high. Now I could have been a pain and claimed it damaged components being bad but I didn't know that for sure. I asked them to put the new one on the tester to so I didn't waste my time. It checked out OK. I grabbed the swapped one and asked the girl to put her battery tester on my battery to test it out. Honestly I was prepare to buy a new battery, I wanted to buy one. She tested it and declared it good so I hopped in Uno and drove back home. I installed the alternator and it did not get hot. But the issue was still there just not as intense. So I thought of vacuum leaks. I sprayed around with carb cleaner and on one of the throttle body gaskets, I got an idle change. So I tightened down the screws and the problem got better but not completely gone. So Next I poured a bit of Berrymans cleaner in the IAC and let it sit for a few minutes. Started the car and it seemed even better but still had the issue. The last thing I did was replace the fuel filter because I had a bunch when Rock Auto had a sale. They won't age like wine, so I put it in. Then I took a 50 mile drive and it all seemed much better. No hints of idle stalling at stops etc. To summarize: This was a multi-cause issue. No single thing fixed it. - Bad reman alternator. - Intake gasket leak - Fuel filter Hope his helps any one else experiencing this issue.

Here is a top shot of the finished engine.

I got some new parts for the install of the engine - all Genuine OEM.

I still got my old head bolts if anyone wants em for free. Got the intake bolts too.

What Subruise said. Miles Fox made a handy dandy series of videos doing just that. Begin at the begin:

Yeah I thought about the screwdriver in the flywheel hole but I think it would mar the bell housing. I think it would work if you don't mind a divet in the bell housing.

I put the engine in Uno and didn't tighten the crank bolt to torque. Though it runs, I know this is just waiting to fall off at an inopportune moment. Does anyone have a clever way to stop the crank from moving while torquing this? I know I can put it into gear but it still has some play. I guess I am interested in something like the Subaru wheel stopper tool that holds the flywheel solid. Thought to build one myself actually because I hate to buy one time use tools like that. Any ideas to stop the flywheel while tightening the crank bolt? Should I also add some thread locker or will that make future removal too had?

I will do that. Thanks.

The battery is over 6 yr old I know that. I will do that today.