MR_Loyale

Took off the heads and dropped them off at CD in kirkland along with the flywheel. My transmission tech removed the transmission from the vehicle (thanks Grant ): Now I have neither an engine nor transmission

There is a radio show called the Northwest Auto Show here in the Seattle area and the host was talking with a fellow who wanted better motor mounts because his souped up hot rod was ripping them up. Tom Turner the host (who has his own shop) said that all aftermarket motor mounts come from TATA, an Indian company. http://tunein.com/radio/The-Northwest-Auto-Show-p29382/ http://www.autocarpro.in/ap/features/3817/powerhouse

So what do people do to clean this up without gouging the block surface? Parts of the head gasket are stuck to mine as well as the heads (which I will let the machine shop deal with). Also, how the hell does one get those HLA's out of their bores?

Do you have the automatic or manual adjusters? I still got my old brake shoes if you want to compare.

Started the teardown: Are the head bolts supposed to be carboned up like this?

True. Plus if I am ever homeless I got somewhere to haul my belongings! But this thing was made from scraps. Actually the plywood was at first being used laying across the legs of the engine crane. I just grabbed it and some 4x4 leftover stubs and said "why not?".

Excellent suggestion. Bad tranny mounts could also explain some of the trouble I have had with the clutch skip and pilot bearing munge.

I am considering replacing the motor mounts on my EA82. They haven't failed necessarily but they are rubber and I know it would be much easier to do this now than later on when the engine is back in. My only real hesitation is that I have learned that the aftermarket for all motor mounts comes from TATA in India. I would rather have my eyes gouged out than put in any part from TATA. They don't necessarily look bad to me but then again they are made of rubber. What do you think?

Did some degreasing and cleaning before I dig into taking it apart:

Ok, so I got to the degreasing prior to disassembly. Still tarnished but it will do for this purpose:

Kind of looks like you got grass growing in there too or weird spiders.

I have my EA82 out of the car and on the engine crane hanging like a piece of meat. I have carefully collected all the potential environmentally hazardous fluids such as the oil and coolant and properly disposed of them at the appropriate facility. I have looked at all the engine leaks using UV techniques so that they may be remedied. Now I have to get the engine out back of my house so I can give it a good cleaning before I begin disassembling it. There are two ways from the front of my garage to the back yard - around the outside through the grass or directly through the garage and out the laundry room door. The grass is very deep and I know that those steel casters on the engine crane or the engine stand will probably dig in and it will be hell fighting it through the grass. The other option is through the laundry room. This is ideal because it takes me onto a covered concrete pad under the deck. Unfortunately the engine stand is too wide to make the maneuver through this: So of course I had to build myself a narrow dolly: Nice and narrow with nice rolling rubber wheels to get through narrow doorways and over thresholds: Pushes the EA82 along like fruit in a grocery cart:

HOLY CRAP! That never occurred to me. That would definitely munge the pilot bearing too wouldn't it?

The area on top of the block just above is bone dry clean.

The pilot bearing was all munged up. You go to turn it and it is like there is sand in it. Maybe that cause the clutch marks?

The pics show that indeed the "plug" appears to be leaking: What tool do I use t get that plug out?

Yup, I got an oil leak to fix, I think that is established. But the question is this from the transaxle (which is also covered on the inside) or the engine. OK so I removed the flywheel and there are no plates back there, just two big honking hexagonal keyed plugs that I think are used during assembly of the pistons to access the wrist pin clip thingies. One appear to perhaps be leaking. Gonna do the UV light tonight to be sure.If no glow is there then it is definitely from the transmission. Pics soon to follow.

I am posting the forensic evidence so that hopefully someone can see something that was done wrong. 43K ago I put in a new pressure plate, clutch, pilot bearing and even took the flywheel off to have it surfaced. Oh and I replaced the rear main seal too for good measure. So now I have the engine out and I put my finger into the pilot bearing hole and it has a grinding feel. Then I get the pressure plate off and I see score marks on the clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel. I know there were no contaminants on either the pressure plate, flywheel or clutch because I used surgical gloves and it was cleaned with brake cleaner prior to install. However I did occasionally have clutch chatter. What went wrong? I don't want to make the same mistake twice! And what is up with the grease in the bell housing? I replaced the rear main seal 43K ago. Could the transmission be leaking this? It is also all greasy inside and I cleaned very well 43K ago.

Adam- BRZ looks gorgeous. Have you experienced any of the fo9llowing with your BRZ? High Pressure Fuel Pump "Cricket" Noise. RPM Dips: This occurs in neutral before coming to a stop. The rpm will dip to 500 rpm and it will feel like the car is about to stall, but it never does. 4th Gear Grind: This happens at 6,000 RPM going from 3rd into 4th. Tail Light Condensation: Water condenses inside taillight.

Yikes. I have yet to order mine but I am interested in the answer to this question.

I am going to have to send my heads (EA82) out to be done. Can I please get any recommendations of shops people have used in the Seattle/Bremerton/Tacoma area? Good or bad I am interested. Thanks

Found this on the Subaru global site:

Fun with UV dye checking for oil leaks:

So I am looking at the engine out of the car under UV light, I can see definite oil leaks. The cam tower/head seam on the driver side: Top front driver side head/block seam: Front bottom of diver side head/block seam: Lower rear of driver side head/block seam:

I am sure some cuss words will be necessary. Got real lucky on the crank bolt though. I forgot to bust it loose before I took the engine out. I was sure I'd use a week's worth of cussing getting it loose. Followed Mile's suggestion about using the air impact wrench and with once zip of air it was loosened. I did the happy dance on that one.