MR_Loyale

Retread?

That is a good suggestion. I will check it when I pull my engine next month. Any pics?

I do agree it usually is economics that causes the cheapest solutions to be tried first. I must have missed that he already did the mickey mouse gasket. As for the oil pump, the OP did say he had a rebuilt one put in. Should he go with a brand new Subaru oil pump? Personally I had TOD in 2006 and when I did the timing belts I replaced the oil pump with a genuine Subaru one bought from the dealer service department. If I am getting my knuckles dirty and doing all that work to get there, I am not going cheap sh*t to save a few bucks, but that's just me. That was 40,000 miles ago. Now I am at 40K miles on the new Subaru oil pump and TOD has returned. Not super bad but I want to deal with it when I do my next timing belt job. They rattle upon acceleration too. Engine wasn't overheated, oil wasn't caked last time I had the engine out and covers off, and the car is definitely not abused as anyone here who has seen it can attest. I am the original owner and put every one of the 157K miles it has. The original HLA's are however, over 20 years old. So are you telling me to not get them rebuilt at Mizpah and instead buy another new oil pump to get rid of my TOD? What should I try for my TOD?

I have heard the thing is not the oil pump but the Mickey Mouse gasket that gets compressed over time and allows the oil to get aerated.

No, everything is stock. Never heard of faster speedo until now.

Have the hla's been worked on? You might want to consider sending them to mizpah and getting them reconditioned. I think there is a nylon or other non-metal bit in the hla's that wear and is what mizpah replaces. Even though the engine has low miles, non-metal parts wear over time and get brittle. http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm I have used Marvels mystery oil in the past and it helped a little bit. Or you can just turn up the stereo.

Seriously, no one has ever had this happen on theirs?

I know where you are going with this. I know jj, it is a manual. The solenoid is only on automatics, right? Haynes wasn't specific in their diagram.

You could be on to something. Looked at the wiring diagram in Haynes last night and it shows a kickdown solenoid in the iac circuit.

You tested all the sensors and they checked out. But that doesn't mean the ECU sees the sensors are being good. There could be an intermittent issue in the harness wiring anywhere from the sensor to the ECU. Yeah I know you jiggled it, but did you jiggle every inch of it? Since it sometimes works, the ECU must be working. I am guessing the IACV circuit as reported. The thing about jiggling a wire to find something is that it is more likely that the wire is broken and jiggling to make it connect is less likely than if it were connecting and working properly and the jiggling caused it to not make contact and the malfunction appears. I hope that makes sense. In your case I suggest you get the wiring diagram for the IACV wires to the ECU and then disconnect your battery and do a step by step continuity check of every single wire involved by testing from the plug that connects directly to the ECU and the one that connects directly to the IACV. It is a PITA but really the only systemic ways to isolate the problem.

That would be a good place to start.

On mine I have only noticed the electric fan kick in when the AC was running.

When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?

I have noticed that my speedometer is sluggish to respond to changes in speed. Is there something I can clean or lube that will make it more responsive? 93 Loyale Sedan

Last weekend I turned the adjustment nut on the hill-holder cable because the hill-holder wasn't engaging. That and the clutch adjuster nut were loose. Tightened them both and it all works now. Time for a nap.

Just a long shot but try this - take off the distrubutor cap, wipe out the condensation and any carbon buidup. Make sure the set screw is on the rotor shaft. Polish the rotor tip with some emery cloth to remove carbon and expose shiny metal. I let my Loyale sit for three months and this was required to get it going again.

I am interested. How much does it cost? When where, name the place and I am there.

You can do it. I did mine in 2006 and prior to that hat never done timing belts or pulled an engine. Go slow, and mark every connector and fitting yo remove with masking tape and write the number of the step you did on a sheet of paper: 1) Disconnect AC wiring harness You end up with a nice list documenting everything you took apart and then you have only to reconnect in reverse. That is what I did and at the time I hadn't a clue what half the connectors did. But I got it all back together and it started first crank. Come here often for help and ignore what non-subaru mechanics tell you. They try to view Subie's and any other kind of car which they are not.

+1

Check for vacuum leaks around hoses and the intake gasket. With mine I have taken the strategy of just replacing the 20 yr old vacuum hoses on principle. They are rubber and will deteriorate over time. They are not expensive and saves me having to chase down piddly little leaks in hoses that cost 75 cents to replace.

Look at all that hair!

When my Loyale did that same thing it was the O2 sensor, but I had a code as well telling me that.

Since Tahuya is 20 min from my place, I would love to go, only my Subaru isn't 4WD, it is FWD. Got a Dodge Truck (reg cab, short bed, automatic 45RFE) that is 4x4 but don't know if it would be crap on this trail since I have never driven it off road before. It only has 9.5 " clearance on the rear differential (I measured it), everywhere else >14". I have also never done off road before, so if this is really just for experienced folks who get mad at anyone just learning, just give the say so and I will stay away.

Go to the grocery store and get shoe goo, used for shoe repair. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3630595&KPID=6111454&pla=pla_6111454

If cranking the torsion bars counts, make that two friends doing a 2" lift.