MR_Loyale

That is the best advice for sure. I did that when I did my timing belt/clutch/water and oil pump job and pulled the engine. It all started right up when I got it all back together because I wrote down each step as I took something off. It definitely slows you down but makes up for it in the end.

I have only done it once. I never touched the distributor. I pulled the engine too because it coincided with my need to replace the clutch. Having the engine out made it much easier to work on. I was also very anal about marking and tagging every hose or connector with a number in the order I disconnected them and keeping that in a list so I could just do the reverse when I put the engine back in. I was under pressure because my dad was sure I would screw it up. But it started right up after the first turn of the key.

I bought my Loyale new and after 42K miles the cheap plastic radiator began leaking. When I went to replace it, I aksed the shop if there was a metal version available and they gave me one for aLegacy I think. Anyway, no problems since. I am at 122K miles now.

The main reason I bought my Subaru (new) was because it was a great value. I bought it in 94 as a previous year new model (93). I paid $11K for it. Compared to what others have paid for new cars, I thought I got a good deal. The car has always started up and never left me stranded on the road. I do have lots of little annoyances but compared to Chevy, I am doing fine. On brand new Chevy vehicles, my brother father and cousin all got dogs that ended up requiring $4-16k worth of "rework" - on a NEW VEHICLE!! And on my brand new Dodge Ram 1500, it came from the factory with defective steering that took the dealer over a week to fix. Besides, I enjoy the enthusiasm and knowledge of USMB.

It has been a little over 4K miles since I replaced the timing belt. WHen should I be opening up the access hatches and retensioning it?

I didn't think to take any. Sorry.

Last July I pulled the engine and did the reseal, clutch, new water and oil pumps. Here are the pics I took. Hopefully someone finds them helpful.

Here is a pic of my Loyale with the engine removed. I cleaned it up a bit.

I have a good picture of mine, but I am not sure how to get it up here. I don't have a URL, it is just on my PC.

Ok. After 130 miles driving with 60% can seafoam in oil and 40% in gas tank I noticed zero change in the ticking. However the engine has more pep and doesn't bog down going up hills if I am in the wrong gear. This morning I drained the oil and tried Marvel Mystery Oil with the new oil and filter. I drove 40 miles and the ticking is still there but noticable less metalic pinging if that makes sense at all. This pitch changed from a high pitch to a lower pitch. I finally decided to employ the anti-ticking device that comes with every Subaru. I turned up the radio.

I will try MMO this weekend.

My version of the EA82 doesn't have push rods. I did get it up to about 6500 RPM while accelerating on the freeway onramp. It still has the ticking though.

Well I changed to oil, put in a new filter and new oil along with 60% of the Sea Foam. I drove it 50 miles slow and fast (highway) and the ticking is still there. Any suggestions?

I am experiencing a ticking in my 93 Loyale. I am at 121K miles and about 4K miles ago I put in a brand new oil pump and mickey mouse seal (along with timing belt and water pump), so I know that can't be the cause. I read some of the other threads here and went and got myself some SeaFoam to try in the oil. I also got a new oil filter just in case there was some sort of issue with the one I have on there now. The oil has been regularly changed, but I haven't ever done any Seafoam or other induction/oil/injection cleaning. I have owned the car since new and I do recall at about 20K miles the dealer offered me a similar "service" for $80 but at the time I thought it was a scam. My intent is to put Seafom in and drive from Bremerton to Portland and back (snag a powerball ticket while I am there). This will probably be around 400 miles and about 6 hours of driving. Is that too long to leave SeaFoam in the oil? I will be changing the oil Sunday.

I am saddened to hear of this. He will be in my prayers.

If it is the valve I am thinking of, you can put a resistor in there and fool it. I drove for the longest time with my light on because I refused to pay $120 for a solenoid which is just an electromagnet like your doorbell. I finally found a place online that had it for $48 and I broke down and replaced it.

In my Loyale on the passenger side engine compartment there is mounted a vacuumn tank that is used to operate the levers for the hvac. My heater would not switch from heat to windshield today so I checked it out using the wet finger test. I could feel vacuumn in the hose before the tank and when I connected the tank output hose directly to the tank vacumn input hose, bypassing the tank, the levers worked. Now it generally isn't my experience that smart car makers put in useless pieces and Subaru is a smart car maker....right???. But my hvac levers switch without the tank which leads me to question if it is necessary at all. Does it just even out for variations in vacumn with engine speed? Is something like this available at the average car parts store like Schucks or Auto Zone?

You cruel person.

Hit a Pheasant? Heck that's dinner right there.

Wow, you guys are really torturous to your subies. I drive mine like a little old lady compared to you guys. :-p

When I did mine I found that going really slow, mark and tag everything meticulosly and write it down on a pad helped my sanity. When I went to put things back together, all I had to do was read the steps backwards.

Interesting wasn't quite the word (of the many swear words) I used to describe that design. In fact I don't recall using the word insteresting. If someone knows how to say "interesting" in four letters, I'm all ears.

The pipe simply seals using an O-ring that typically comes with a new water pump. The pipe has a crimped section where it mates with the water pump flange. I concluded that was the portion that was leaking. Being the cheapskate I am, I deferred purckasing the $70 pipe and instead smeared RTV all over the crimped portion. For good measure I threw in some stop leak as well. You have to remove the alternator and set the AC aside to get at the pipe. For most experts here probably about a 15 minute job. For me, probably about 2 hours.

Dude you definitely get the McGiver award for that one. I feel so unworthy now that I couldn't get a spun crankshaft pulley back on in the middle of the night and had to be towed.