Steptoe

Asked self this a few times Bennie (& others) No overlap line? Looked like it just asking to butt up and be welded? It is a prototype? I had these old as blazes rods I nearly chuck out every clean up and thought "what the heck" I am working out the front section as if it is to be welded same way now....starts out almost as wide as an A4 sheet, shaped to cling to the underside of the manual gearbox crossmember which now think butt weld to the plate, and bolt to crossmember

Bump

Allcarmanuals site does not list 2.0 Bennie I wonder if we can rely on LHD market ECU diagrams anyway ????

The sway bar spacer blocks are still under development but they do the job adding 11.91 mm distance between body and bar, allowing for straight plate over the bar and up to the EJ gearbox mount.

5 & 6 mm plate welded with GP rods 1/8" @ 130 Amps Not bad for 30-40 year old rods

Great stuff.

Hmmmm, at the moment it is a work in progress...there is a bit of 5 mm plate 100 mm wide that is drilled for the EJ Impreza gearbox mount studs to go through Idea is not to weld but bolt this plate to the underside of the original manual 4 WD gearbox crossmember Currently working on spacer blocks for sway bar to body mounts 82 mm long , central 34 mm housed out 6 mm using 12*30 aluminium flat bar. I should be mocking up out of timber first but I know this idea of sway bar drop works Also playing with an idea for tailshaft centre bearing mounting but would love to see how others have done this. All you others, this does not need to be the Bennie and Steppie show either.....

Thinking if I make up spacers for the sway bar to body mounts by 12-15mm may not need the half pipe to clear sway bar

Any harm in starting another thread for EJ stuff in EA81? If anyone finds good threads for an EJ AWD box in EA81 bodies please don't hesitate to add links I have seen some photos of some impressive work, just some build instructions would help Here is my start Flat bar mild steel 5 mm X 40 mm wide Centre to centre for the automatic transmission mounting captive nuts rearward of sway bar line ~280 mm I started with more flat bar than need so I could trim to size once cold bent in vice. Bent with BFH. Once things bent, marked out the ~280 mm hole centres, then marked out 20 mm from these centre punch marks for cut mark. Fitted up, 25 mm might just be bit better Marked centre line, then 50 mm each side, so 100 mm apart I used these marks to set in vice to bend from there to 45° using combination square and bar set up on flat bench as I went -easy. All four bends are the simpler 45° This one set out and ended up surprisingly to be a total height of 45 mm Plenty of clearance of gearbox and sway bar. Same for an exhaust pipe. M10 1.25 bolts for the captive nuts in the body, drilled holes in this 11 mm

It could be possible the tick came back after another 500 km , yes, I don't know, and from this experience I bought new or got Mizpah reco units for my own builds and oil pumps always get new seals when I am in there. "Usually" but not this mechanic. Had a typical Of today's world way back then, offer half the asking price, over the phone, without even looking at it. Persisted in calling back too, so I had great pleasure in telling him wagon had gone and we got the advertised price i have some idea that lifter free by Wynn's was also available in a trade only strength and it is probably an additional detergent to add to whatever is in engine oil for starters. I like to use Diesel spec oils in family cars last ...err...nearly 30 years! mainly for better detergent packages for multi valve lifters and my EA82s though this is early 90's thinking and today's oils for petrol engines probably have similar additive levels

Factory Shop Manuals ? In the Blue plastic binders? I was in Fuji heaven in the store room Bennie - nothing but these things. Picture book shelves about six foot wide, five foot high, crammed with these folders ! Shh...nobody let me in there, just had to freeze as Dealer Principal stuck his nose in there , switched the light on to find me with my micro camera and head torch if you find a pinout for entire ecu please yell out !

Two piece or two wire? All EA82 are one piece screw in 15/16 tube socket. They become two pieces with a little effort though

Having done the Tambox string alignment I would hazard a guess front and rear is same

Is an oil pressure number indicative of bad oil pump causing this lifter tick? One of our earlier ones in 1996 had a tick that went quiet as you let clutch out to give gentle load. A lifter free additive went in, took 500 km to resolve issue, then sold to mechanic full of praise for its condition

E10 , sounds like a fuel ! Spied a set in mates store room today, so got one Maybe a love tap to next one prior to undo attempt. Pardon boys

Series One EA82T seems to be a bit more like EA81T than Series Two I wonder if EA81T knock sensor is two wire Is module Denso or Hitachi? Knock module may be between glovebox and body Plastic black may be Denso, think Hitachi were all gold zinc metal module box S1 knock has white plastic in body, S2 is green Series one knock sensor part number I have recorded as may be 22060AA000

No ecu pinout in the Subaru manuals at my dealers...I was expecting to find just like the EA82 manuals

Look at that taper, deffo something to need some serious lube prior to undoing So, what is tightening torque for these? The flange nut at the front of rear diff is same as axle hub nut 145 ft lbs

Welcome to the Paul & Bennie chat show I was a little surprised to see a Subaru Guru asking this question but as soon as drugs have affected your brain, I understand Honestly only just noticed these odd bolt heads in the centre of my EA82 3.9 rear diff output shaft stubs as I installed it two days ago - after 20 years of Fuji Fiddling ! Paul - oh Master - can you give us a shot and story on what Fuji Forsaken tool you have to undo it please? I have no idea Did you soak the recess in CRC556 or something prior? Impact blast or long breaker bar? Surely other members also have good and bad experiences with these bolts. Having chucked out 7 diffs three years ago I now question why I didn't pull one apart, even if just for a paper weight or two

So many words mister ! But you've some pretty good detail My recent EA82 coolant losses have been water pump Seal so leaks out weep holes top and bottom of water pump housing. The other, seemed to come and go. Having ethylene glycol in there helps engage the smell and taste senses for diagnosis. Noticed each time I smelled, tasted coolant, was moments after spirited driving requirements. Turned out to be a 5.5 mm inside dia rubber hose from the middle of the top of engine block to the thermostat housing next to temp gauge sender unit. This hose had a cats bum * look about it with no extra spirited driving pump pressure surge behind it. These cats bum * like cracks opened up spraying fine spray all over the place making it tricky to spot source New hose. Job done

Modern cars, modern service procedures at the stealerships that have an interest in no troubles during warranty period will add a pre change oil cleaner to your invoice at least. You used a coolant system cleaner, so maybe after 30 years an oil system cleaner cannot hurt too much A block heater ...brrr...oil grade recommations need to take in your climate I use a diesel spec oil for its supposed better ( more?) detergents in the mix. Been doing this for multivalve engine lifters for 25 years and no problems and cleaner innards 15-20 years ago an engineer's institute fix and tell page quoted the EA82 as a victim of over filling sump causing oil aeration causing noisy lifters

Feel your pain.... my first and only EJ donor got everything pulled, nothing identified, to rely on diagrams later. Diagrams plural. For my donor 99 Impreza there is no single ecu pinout, just lots of little single circuit diagrams to piece together

I like your consideration of a manual choke. They are more tactile, let the human interact a little closer to the operation of things. My experience with automatic chokes is limited as I always had old stuffed and cantankerous ones to play with. As a result I convert to manual choke every time. My latest is a mix of things ...propane with a momentary primer button for shot while cold cranking and throttle open a little, as well as an electric fast idle solenoid to let a little air bleed past the throttle with a manual on off switch

Oczuk , how did its smog test go?