Steptoe

Oh, drop the E from the tranny name, that did not come in until the E4AT as I have seen Japanese brochures refer to what everyone else call 4EAT

Well done.It is often difficult to find best fix over the net based on description from both sides i had this particular kind of shifter slop in my first Brumby.... actually it had it prior to my purchase and some butcher fixed it by welding the outer part to the shift rail that goes through the housing is an oil seal. Problem I inherited was this butcher did not care that his repair left a lump to punch the oil seal every time second and fourth was selected. While in car I got some small tools to remove weld, repair rail back to round with epoxy, brought back to shape with that plumbers gritty flywire stuff and tightened his roll pin replacement. I still had to replace oil seal annually due to my epoxy section not being smooth steel The best repair I have seen for this was M8 bolt and curved washers. Research sloppy shifter fix as well , about $20 genuine bits for base of shift stick These babies also develop flex in pedal box structure and also the firewall where a brace for spare wheel ledge support can start to break it's spot welds away from firewall - both reduce cable effect. Most sane, and sociable people do not need to attempt repairing the 4MT boxes beyond this. I reckon a rebuild or even just a reseal of these requires a skill level beyond the EA82 five speed 4WD conversion enjoy...

Good news on the auto fix :- but we give out this help for you to tackle the problem at home on your own. Speaking for myself, some of us are cheapskates On the spare carb, if its donor is month and year match to yours it will likely be the same. Six months either way and it could differ enough to be an awkward straight swap. Check its features and freckles to see if it is same or different

Is this the last thing you need to do to finish the lift? Never done a lift myself but was preparing by collecting different length steering shaft splined bits n bobs over the years, so I think the trial and error method exists for you to measure up how much is missing, trail the wrecking yards for right length PS or manual rack may also make a difference in the parts available to try as I noticed my PS unit has a longer shaft coming out if rack for starters so maybe if you had PS, just some manual bits may do the job

Put it in neutral, fwd and Jack up the rear wheels off the ground, spin one wheel by hand what direction does the other wheel turn?

Rae , go to nearest Subaru dealer for new clutch cable for your beast. I got one in last 12 months

People sell cars because they are too cheap to replace or clean a radiator. I find if you look after a car for keeps you get to see how long a new radiator can last and know you have done the right thing

strip and quote, Ido, strip and quote I don't know how hard it is to get in on the LHD cables for XTs, the RHD, absolute Fujer of a job

Like to think a few minutes should do no harm When starting up new or reco I have had to drive around the 'hood slow speed for probably 20 minutes to stop the ticking

Just a bad cap will do what you describe

Yeah Firstly, a lot of us like to swap radcap for a recovery style then add a coolant reservoir to the mix I have had one as far away as the space near RHS bonnet hinge This keeps a cold radiator chockers in a healthy system, eliminating air space that can compress and maybe boil up also. I have run a few EA engines including turbo without thermostat for years in -9° - +42° C environment Sounds like your radiator needs assessing for % blocked

Just had a quick look. A well thought out index with parts diagrams, prices and discontinued notifications

took the little ute with trailer to get some garden compost and recalled 2 cubic metres was a bit heavy some years back so ordered 1.5 Still felt a bit heavy, so next load, I ask approx weights, to be told about 300 kg. The trailer is about 250kg, so a cubic metre was next order and on my way out I tried out the weigh bridge ..... 2.02 tonne !! It still felt a bit heavy but the little EA82T dealt with it very well, and the RX disc rear helped the front anchors also very well

Is that a 4,000 ml gallon or 3,880 ml gallon? I have seen US gallons expressed as both options. We have 4,540 ml gallons in Oz which makes our gallon about $6.50 AUD and our current dollar buys about 68 US cents

75-85° C is my usual op temp

Hmmmm.... If it helps, on my EA82 car and engine I used the TM2 on I saw 109°C , the temp needle just nudging the red zone of Subaru gauge I was running cardboard complete coverage of radiator , following engine guru instructions to set the Sealwel magic black block - it worked sealing a source of steam that was there after a cooling system cleaner used. I then serviced heads, new genuine HG and still got steam - hence Sealwel I never wanna see 109 but suffered no damage at that temp for just a few minutes. Your thermostat is supposed to be fully open at its set temp - 95°C which is supposed to be the temp petrol engines are most fuel efficient. I set my fan on at 92, off at 91 Use Google for F conversion My auto 4WD 3 speed used to hang onto gears longer than I liked. When I converted to manual box, I found the vacuum operated do dad on the RHS if trans just above the pan - loosely threaded in and weaping fluid. Maybe check your vacuum line, connections and this do dad is not loose

Great stuff. Even better is that you did it ! The world will love you Be interesting to see if you find better fuel use

Kick panel down under usual refers to the panel on the outer side edge of each footwell. Trying to recall how I did my EA81 cables, but keep finding myself in a fetal position on the floor or just similar but upright and rocking on my bum Turn the music up, banish all visitors, lock yourself in shed, remove drivers seat ( it is EA81 body not spacious EA82) The plastic panel above your feet - give it a name of your own- remove it's screws up front , two of, unclip from above brake pedal and near bonnet release. Look forward for four 12 mm nuts that hold brake booster and pedal box together Disconnect ACC cable above pedal, may need to release at carb first - yes you do. Two 12 mm bolts securing steering column to pedal box front Disconnect the safety pin connector at brake pedal, booster rod. Twist pedal box out gently pulling clutch cable through. This tricky task makes clutch cable install a dream. or find little kid with both a technical bent and strong fingers and do cable in place without pedal box removal, but then you may discover box has break, cracks and flex

Rae, genuine Subaru clutch cable should still be available around $100 from your local dealer here in Australia. Yep, bastard of a job, but could be worse - you have Japanese engineering not 60's English !

OK. Time to look at the dizzy and see if it is what others expected I know nothing of throttle body injected distributors I know multipoint injecteds used dizzy caps with screw down retention whereas carbied EA82 all had spring clips Some carb dizzies had the module you showed first. Ihave never seen the other thing with flyleads. Other carb dizzies had what looks like two brown plastic covered modules under the spring clip cap What Dave says above sounds good about trying to restore the spfi, but if you just want to get it going with minimal poo fight - find a carb model dizzy and coil

Bennie has a point here....maybe second sensor to auto trans pan or a body housing bolt? Somewhere to monitor trans temp guts. Once you monitor and test it's temp range can set a higher temp for alert? If I had auto this would be my move. Thinking cars with oil temp monitors have sensor on tin or alloy sump close the oil. I'd go side of pan myself

I think the more you take a specialist sort of vehicle to either wrong specialist, or an ordinary workshop - the more you will want to learn to diagnose, fix and maintain your beast yourself. Maybe mount the oil filter sensor to a magnet to make oil changes easier. Grease monkeys likely to not expect an oil filter sensor. Do your own oil changes now. An overheat often kills engines and transmissions. Maybe a compression test for engine now a good starting point?

Need some ideas, photos, tips on how to make a tail shaft centre bearing fit up to an EA81 transmission tunnel And, for once, I am asking in the most appropriate forum section I have an EJ20 from AUDM GF8 Impreza sitting in the engine bay with widened slots. It fits. Then I have the Impreza 5MT AWD box sitting behind it without flywheel and clutch at the moment - working on an H bracket crossmember So, wondering what others have done to mount the tailshaft centre bearing for full EJ conversions I have done the flat bar method before using EA82 five speed and two piece tailshafts. Also done another make centre bearing support bracket The EJ tailshafts centre bearing sits a little further back from EA82 location and it doesn't look so easy The world is full of EJ conversions but most seem to be engine only with adaptor plates. Unfortunately I got a bee in my bonnet about using more modern driveline... So, some pics and text would be greatly appreciated

Love it when practicality forces us to alter more than one thing at a time so really don't know if it was one thing or the combination of things fixed it. I have in the past just adjusted my timing belts and got rid of the tick. Not exactly the tick of death either. These poor things don't stop because if this noise

Not the same as the same year with the US manuals I got on CD from a pretty girl on eBay , she had no idea what she was selling Forester? Hmm no.... I think Su mmer is a better time to look through my local Subaru library. I think I need to approach in a different way ....maybe knowing wire colours I have for starters