Steptoe

Sort of Ford Pinto look at that angle eh? Yes, clarification is good. Calling it a Hatchie and think everyone understands anyone with an EA82/LSeries hatchback calls them an RXIi

That cool thing is the Unicoil, invented , I believe, by a fella last name Bozic in Perth, Western Australia. They were marketed in a bizarre way, seemed to only be sold in pairs of either 1/2" or 5/8" and a metre of heater hose to suit. Not sure workshops wanted to buy heater hose they already had at bulk wholesale prices. We bought them for the jigger Fantastic device I believe was licenced or something to Gates who made them available individually. My local Gates supplier put me in a panic saying there were out of production, NLA. Moving right along, finding that a typical line from them for stuff they can't supply. Seem to be marketed again as or by Unicoil . Best Subaru application I found is for the bent coolant hose at the back of the EA82T along with silicone heater hose. If anyone finds a general hose adapter for these two sizes feel free to put in a link

Ok, so I still don't know what body shape you have - suspect it is typical EA82 body shape, with an EA71 (late) engine EA82 body is wider than typical EA81 Gen2 which is wider than typical EA71 gen 1 body. Then late Gen1 also got EA81 engines, maybe it was these (only these?) that got wide case EA71 gearbox?

A local specialist used to offer exchange EA engines they had simply slapped new rings and bearings and serviced the heads. Out of maybe fifteen EAs I have pulled down, only ever found one crank with a scored crank journal. I also had one crank that would flex a little and pounded the block on the central bearing, mushrooming things. This gave quite a growl as the load and revs got up, but never let me down. I am the responsible party on that one, still took 180,000 km to do it, and the number of revs this beast saw often, it probably felt it had done double

Tell me you have engaged 4WD off road ...these babies can be hairy if left in FWD off road

Well Ricky, if you can include links to what set you right might help anyone in future Like el Freddo I have pulled these dual range 4 speeds apart, never back though. The first one required a jigsaw. So it had no chance. I had no care when doing the second Unless you are gearbox experienced and already have work methods set out for success, I am going to suggest my way I worked out for successful assembly Wash the box out before dissemble , once outside is clean, spotless. I now put a litre of kerosene inside drained box, roll about on my engine/ gearbox stand, tip up, drain down, drain and rinse repeat. I assembly totally dry, then once everything is assembled, gasket goo set 24 hours, add a litre of so and tumble and spin, up end etc before instal

MK1 was an analogue meter stuck to the dash top with blutac MK2 was a seperate powered LCD unit mounted in the clock hole of Project Cheap Grief - my GLA SeriesOne EA82T It's plastic screen buckled under our sun MK3 is this new $2 eBay Voltmeter powered and earthed by the former resident's supply. Cig lighter socket lived here. It should display 5.0 with IGN on, but gives 5.88 It should display 1.7 engine running,but gives 1.6 When a knock is sensed the Volts should rise incrementally from experience, up to 4.5V. As or if this happens, the timing is retarded by up to 10° from experience. It is also incremental or seems to be as the naked brain catches the actions. Volts signal is taken from the Black/white trace wire at single white female plastic terminal at the ignition coil of 85,86 SeriesOne EA82T that run flapper AFM, white two pin knock sensor and 3 plug ECU, and seperate Knock Control Module KCM mounted between glovebox and body Really not expecting to see this activate much due to higher octane LPG. I ran it for almost three months with KCM accidentally disconnected and no worries, no audible ping

An 86 body is usually coil spring not torsion bar rear unless it is a ute, or did the hatch also get an extended production ? Wherever you may be that got ea71 in 86, your engine may be step or two behind but surely and 86 Gen3 body will not take Gen2 rear suspension without a fight

Think it is partly also in the springs

A bad experience with a flex hose in the 80s put me off them for life. Maybe we just had a bad one? I sort of view them the same as a temporary spare and only if you must. Maybe I need to change my views of them Also feel we have big companies choosing what they bring in to Australia to retail. You choice you Americans have is mind blowing. Fancy getting an AC service kit at Walmart Might be time to get some accurate lengths need and import a few personally if this cherished adaptor won't work

I think many seats are also just ever so slightly made to angle in towards the centre These seats have the fold release lever of coupes in the Brumbies so these would also prevent straight side swapping Getting a bit sick if passengers saying how comfy the seats are - not true on my side ( at present, just wait) Zip ties good idea. I threw out my fence netting hog tie pliers mistakenly it now seems lo

Instead of chasing seats to make fit the Brumby and suit my driving position, I am thinking of swapping the seat squab springs and foam from passenger seat to drivers Also thinking of modern seats having a metal bucket instead of foam over springs, wondering if I can make or convert mine to same MX5 / Miata seats would be ideal except for cost, so wanna work with what I have

That's the sort of detail I needed to hear , thanks 86Bratman funny , down under a driveshaft is usually a front axle CV shaft, and your driveshaft is our tailshafts. Rear axles are rear axles

Haven Industries in Clayton turned it up from my idea, improved on it with their own specialist touch. Sounds like this sort of thing can be found in the US, maybe by Gates? Started off by purchasing within Oz and having the seller post direct, supplied and delivered cheaper than I could post one from my place!

This custom modified adapter could butt up at either end , radiator or engine, or mid hose. It was made from same as red thing in photos

Well, see what arrived in the post today

I used to hoard EA81 fwd auto CV shafts as these were said to be part of fitting EJ box in EA81. Skinny things they were, and I made decision to stay EA - back then

Noted. GC auto thanks. Now, not really EJ conversant, I know GC8 the sedan 93- 2000? And GF8 as wagon same era. No idea the letters assigned after gc and gf8

Well, at least there are two of us at this stage My plan is to whack in the 23 spline stub axles so don't have to mess with custom front CV shafts I had to do this before on an EA box with 25 spline fuel injected box in my Brumby

Thanks for that input Got some inside info from a fella who had a Brumby with an EJ and AWD EJ box Mr Sti22B knew it well L Series gearbox end of tailshaft and K Series centre bearing EJ rear diff end of tailshaft And an EJ rear diffs flange on the EA82 rear diff to mate the differing bolt patterns Only found this after hopping out 35 mm if EJ rear end tailshafts didn't I ? The Impreza tailshafts tube thickness is just 1.6 mm !

XT pedal box is a bit more complex than EA81 stuff. My bet is the cable or in the clutch fork

Well got the hatch @ 2380 , 80 mm shorter than sedan sedan & hardtop @ 2460, 80 mm longer than hatch Wagons DL (2WD)? 2455mm and 4WD 2445mm Brumby spec not in this manual so pulling it from Australian MV supplement booklet...2445mm So same Brumby and 4WD EA81 wagon Give that memory a gentle tap Bennie And Mr22B, was thinking of this, just trying not to waste cyberspace .Must hit FB see if Toonga recalls Thinking centre bearing support mounts remains same so front shaft length is what changes and then suggestion is mix EA and EJ stuff too Won't hurt me making up a dummy shaft out of useless parts. A mate when he needs my help is a welder with an invoice book when indeed help has nice saw and welding stuff

OK Whoever has done the full 'just EJ it's to an EA81 body BRAT, Brumby, wagon or sedan Maybe not the hatch coz think it was shorter wheelbase My first hands on looked like 50-52 mm should be removed Now, made up a support to prop up the tailshaft as it comes out of the AWD box Recap, if is an EJ20 and AWD 5MT out of GF8 Impreza of 99 EJ sits in the engine bay with gearbox bolted in place, gear lever shortened 60 mm, stay rod yet to be mounted to floor Using an EA82 brace that used the automatic crossmember mounting bolts in EA82 in the EA81, spaced off floor about 14 mm, and AWD. just resting here Now it looks like 35-40 mm is needed to be removed Planning to grind off the lump of weld at rear yoke to see if I can pull tube off yoke, cut then weld up again The uni is a little arthritic so if I stuff up boreal harm done

I have often seen what theory says is a weak spark yet car has no problems Do you have starting or running problems to report? There is the seal in the front pulley as well as the oil pump and oil pressure switch that can leak up front - it takes some effort to determine where oil leak is, as well as sump gasket..... Water pumps rarely get replaced due to preventative maintenance. Best first step is just to have a new pump in your hands, or shed, bedroom Rockauto.com is a good starting point to find parts or at least correct terms, zero in on part differences between the years and models I use EA82 Y pipe on EA81, just about 3/4" longer at join end and often the rubber hangers can take up the slack