Everything posted by naru2
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Can someone tell me where I can get a ignition transistor or is it possible to bye pass it. On a 90 Loyale
- No power to my ignition coil
You need a lock cylinder as well.Wrecker is the only source I know. This may help https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147668-brat-ignition-lock-cylinder-stuck/ Apparently,part #783121210 fits an 82 but is not 100% correct.This includes a lock cylinder and switch.Goggle the part #. Maybe you do not need a switch.No point replacing the wrong part.If there is 12 volts on 2 of the switch OUTPUTS(not counting the white input) in RUN position,the switch is OK.- No power to my ignition coil
I should have said BLACK/YELLOW instead of black/white.(IGN terminal of switch) White should be OK since the starter works.- No power to my ignition coil
With tilt,you need to remove the bottom panel that surrounds the fusebox.- No power to my ignition coil
You will have to remove the steering column cover to access the connector if you do not have tilt steering.- No power to my ignition coil
Make sure there is power going into the switch on the large white wire and power power coming out on the others,especially black./white. Check the connector for overheating.- No power to my ignition coil
What car? No relays involved. Check fusible links and ignition switch.- No power to my ignition coil
Fuse?- Can someone tell me where I can get a ignition transistor or is it possible to bye pass it. On a 90 Loyale
That disconnected yellow looks like it belongs where the purple is.- Can someone tell me where I can get a ignition transistor or is it possible to bye pass it. On a 90 Loyale
That disconnected yellow looks like it belongs where the purple is.- I have a no start problems with my ignition coil
- I have a no start problems with my ignition coil
- I have a no start problems with my ignition coil
- New brat owner needs help!
This is correct for an 84 Brat w/tilt.Probably yours too.You get the switch,cylinder,and the aluminum housing. Punch the part number into goggle for more options. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Subaru-Ignition-Switch-783121210-/173202088170- New brat owner needs help!
What is missing is a good connection between the 12V output of your switch(you have 12 there right?) and the 8V measurement at the FPCU. Yes you need both.I do not know where to get a lock cylinder other than used. I am not sure if the ea82 switch fits or not-likely does. Ignition pulses from coil negative on the yellow are the trigger.The ignition switch supplies 12V to the FPCU for the fuel pump When the FPCU is triggered,the pump sees 12V- New brat owner needs help!
The ignition switch does not switch the tach signal to the FPCU. Your test light should pulse while cranking w/it is on the yellow FPCU wire. You need 12V at the FPCU. The switch in your link is an ea82 switch.They only have one mounting hole and may be otherwise different. Rockauto has ea81 switches.Tilt wheel switches w/a short harness are NLA.You need to cut the tabs off a normal one and solder wires on like I did.- New brat owner needs help!
If the switch is wonky,you need a new one regardless of anything else.I had to replace mine recently. Should be 12 volts on the thick white power feed wire all of the time.IG terminal (black) should be 12 volts in RUN.Blue will be hot in RUN or ACC. If there is less than 12 volts on the white,check voltages on both sides of the fusible links near the battery..- New brat owner needs help!
Progress! Do you have 12 volts on any of the FPCU wires? If not,the FPCU is not the problem. There are 2 seperate 12 volt feeds to the FPCU.One is live w/the key in ACC position and RUN position.The other only in RUN, One of the blacks is hot in RUN,the other is ground. Might be a bad ignition switch or corroded connector.- New brat owner needs help!
Here is one https://www.opgi.com/air-fuel-delivery/fuel-pumps-regulators/electric-fuel-pump-controller2/fuel-pump-controller-all-12-volt-ch30173.html Or,if you do not mind eliminating the engine stops/pump stops safety function(I did),just use a normal relay.- New brat owner needs help!
Yes,Should be very close to battery voltage. My test light lights up at less than 5 volts.You need a meter. If less than 12V,then bad connections or FPCU.Pump should run w/9-10 volts though. If the jumper wire to negative does not work,put a fuse on the battery end and jump power to the pump for a test.- New brat owner needs help!
Bad ground,if you have 12V while the harness is connected to the pump. Run a jumper to battery negative for a test- I have a no start problems with my ignition coil
- Valve cover grommet?
- Rear wheel brake cylinders
They are not all the same. Wagons and 3Drs use 3/4",everything else 11/16" The smaller ones won`t work properly. 25177ga360 NLA at the dealer,but,I see some at rockauto.- Cooling fan switch
The one in the squarish cage on the RH side is the engine fan. You can`t judge switch quality by their ebay price. I`d get the $8 one-same part. https://www.ebay.com/itm/BECK-ARNLEY-201-1381-Engine-Cooling-Fan-Switch-Subaru-Brat-DL-1980-1987-TS171/153812308455?fits=Year%3A1984|Make%3ASubaru&epid=76823248&hash=item23cfed91e7:g:aCkAAOSwf0dclOGy - No power to my ignition coil
