naru2

Fusible links and ignition relay. Check voltage at coil + while cranking

Flat rate for a manual rack is 2.3 hours says Chiltons. I did my power rack many moons ago.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Subaru-Parts-Catalog/133305555530?hash=item1f09a15a4a:g:I1EAAOSw6SNdr3Dp Maybe you can scan a page missing from mine?

Found a spec. 2 way valve relieves pressure above 0.5 psi+/- 0.2psi.

Pull a couple of the new plugs and inspect for wetness.Verify they spark w/removed. Be aware that plugs might spark OK outside the engine,but,fail w/engine compression etc. especially if the spark is weak. How is the distributor cap and rotor?If they are anything like the plugs,you are not going anywhere. Check the coil and plug wires w/an ohmmeter I would use a half thimble of gas (before cranking).I have never used carb cleaner as starting fluid. Pull the fuel line and verify fuel flow w/cranking. No reason for compression to suddenly disappear in all cylinders,but,a test would still be a good idea. Don`t be such a quitter-This does sound like a simple repair

Has to be 2 things at once. 1 Either the ignition switch is not really off or the relay is stuck. AND 2 The fan switch is fubared or the wire from the switch to the fan motor is shorted to ground.

Not when the are that bad.

That is baked on oil. Change the plugs and check resistance of the plug wires. It will run. Buy a fuel filter while you are at the store.It needs changing and will help you see what you are looking for,

oil

The plugs are complete garbage.Of course it will not run. The filter is near the pump underneath.You did not look hard enough. Your car does not have points,

The filter is underneath near the pump,but,you are barking up the wrong tree w/that anyway. Super rare for a bad filter to prevent idling on a carbed car,but,test(blow thru) and replace it regardless. Much more likely to be a plugged idle jet,emulsion tube,bad idle stop solenoid or non functional choke. Can you see fuel in the carb sight glass? Does the accelerator pump squirt? As stated,a flashing timing light does not = good spark.Test spark by making it jump a gap. Pull the spark plugs to verify they are not fouled.If they have any fuel smell at all. dry them w/a torch or kitchen stove. It should start even if the idle jet is blocked if you prime it w/a few squirts from the accl. pump and vary the throttle position while cranking Much safer to reinstall the airfilter before cranking

Sounds like a vacuum or unmetered air leak to me. Regardless,the first thing to do is verify proper fuel pressure before wasting time on other items. In addition,I would probably try pinching the return line on the fuel pressure regulator progressively closed to increase fuel pressure and richen the mixture hopefully smoothing the idle. Or,feed it a little propane for the same purpose. What is the O2 led on the ECU doing during the wandering idle?O2 sensor voltage? Unplugging the auxillary air valve won`t suddenly alter idle speed because the valve itself is thermal.Leaks in the hardened hoses connected to it could be a problem. Check the large rubber intake boot carefully.They crack and have many possible leak points. My car has a wandering ilde at a certain rpm during warmup due to a bad spot in the airflow meter. The egr valve might not be seating all the way. Any codes?

It should hold SOME pressure.Can`t find a spec,but,I think it should be under 2 psi. Might be worth checking that the line to the cannister is not blocked.

I have 3 on negative.

It controls vacuum and pressure in the tank.

It is the 2 way valve.

I went w/an aeromotive 13301 after trying a $20 ebay counterfeit Chinese Tomei(goggle it). https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/universal-bypass-regulator/ The $20 one almost worked OK,but,the spring is too stiff(when adjusted for 36psi) to be responsive enough. The 13301 works great so far.Even improved transmission shift points. Stock operating range is 26-43 psi depending on vacuum/boost 26-30 is idle fuel pressure. Fuel pressure is always 36psi higher than manifold pressure. The gauges that come with the regulators are garbage.Almost useless unless visible from the cabin anyway.I use an electric one.

Make sure the shielded wire is attached to coil negative.No injectors w/o that.

Hmmm...,not too sure about that. If it is on constant immediately after a cold start,it must an electrical problem as the sensor takes a minute or two to warm up and generate a rich signal.

If the O2 sensor input to the ECU is constantly rich,the LED will be on constantly.

Digi dash uses a different fuel level sender and it varies 86-7..

The original question was whether Subaru omitted O2 sensors on 85-86 EA82Ts in some markets,NOT what happens if an O2 sensor is removed. Given the worldwide FSM notes ,I am thinking yes. Why have an O2 sensor if you don`t care about emissions? I bet the ECUs for group A rally cars did not use one.Can`t be 100% sure though even after looking at the rest of the rally prep manual.(exhaust gets replaced)

The real point is that an O2 sensor is not required just because a car has a turbo.so the possibility exists that Subaru did not use one in some markets.

You seem to like to make up concerns about whether the plugs will foul.Why not follow your own advice and just go unplug one.