calebz

4speed turbo tranny? You are going to stick with an automatic? Have fun with that, they have their own computer and wiring harness that must be installed with the tranny. Not something I would relish doing. Regarding the temp gauge.. I if there are any grounding issues anywhere in the car, the temp gauge on the 87+ digidash will do all sorts of weird stuff.. I finally decided to put in a mechanical aftermarket gauge.. much more reliable.

As far as I know, its a straight swap.. I am assuming you are referring to a legacy? If you do it, do all 4

You can install a higher rated FPR without going to the megasquirt system. The stock system isn't really intelligent enough to know there is more fuel going through the rail. It will keep opening and closing the injectors at the same rate. At the stock 36psi, our injectors go at about 185cc.. 245 at 43psi is interesting.. IIRC, my volvo FPR is a 43 PSI regulator. WIll have to do some experiments with the spare:D

Theres a little radiator shop, hole in the wall type of place on south tacoma way, across from osborne-McCann cadillac. For the life of me I can't remember the name of the place... Was run by an old black guy.. Always found what I needed and he even did some custom work for me a few years ago. Good prices.

Beware of doing that on an old block.. you may very easily find yourself with stripped threads in the block. Found out the hard way that stripped head bolt holes suck.

Cool.. Good info, thanks Have you checked the AF ratios with the extra injector?

Thats a good start. But the heads are torqued in three steps. Go through the pattern the same way each time.. I will dig up the numbers here shortly. I know the final one is 47 ft/lbs;)

the CTS is a different sensor than the one that runs the gauge. It is specifically for the fuel injectoin computers fuel calculation info. I have rarely seen them go bad, usually, the contacts are corroded. Honestly though, it sounds more like an IAC thing. Even though its been cleaned and soaked, doesn't mean its good;)

Thats what they tested at at 43psi isn't it? Something to keep in mind is that the stock FPR is only set at 36 or so psi.

Thanks for the pic. Exactly what I was looking for. Is that CIS type injector?

Coolant temp sensor? IAC maybe?

All of the above is correct. Additional note: The spider intake cae in both turbo and NA XTs - 87.5 and up

Not so sure about that corky. Didn't Oz get the EA82 style in 84.. Kinda like they got the Legacy in 89?

Yeah, thats pretty impressive, but I can belive it. On my fairly fresh build, I have hit 15-17 psi a couple times.. holy carp that thing really wakes up!

I'm confused. There is no cold start injector on an EA82T. If your check engine light came on, that means you have an error code stored in the system. Pull the codes(refer to the USRM) and report back.

Do you have pics of the extra injector setup? Have you tested AF ratios with it?

Common misconception. Not all EA82 style GL-10s are turbo. There are a number of SPFI GL-10s

no no no Not asking if the idiot lights work. Was asking if they are on (even dimly) during normal operation.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22340&highlight=GL-10+difference

Looks great. One thing that may help is putting some of the little plastic guard thingies on the bottom rear corners of the back doors.. you know.. the ones that GL-10s came with..

Tried to hotwire it eh? If you sorted something out in the process, its possible you smoked the alternator. These things run like crap and do all sorts of funny things when the alts go bad. Are any of the idiot lights on the dash on?

Thermostat Head gaskets (most important for turbo cars)

The WRC IC surface area is about 16x6 The opening for my scoop is 16.5x6.5 It covers the IC pretty well, and the airflow seems decent. Even here in TX I have not had significant heatsoak issues. Sitting in traffic can take its toll since theres no air going over the IC at a stop, but I have an IC sprayer to help deal with this. The scoop will actually allow for a slightly larger opening, but I was a bit conservative when cutting my hood. I intend to enlarge the hole a little for better flow, in addition to adding some sort of seal to better channel the air to the IC. Mounting was easy, the scoop came with double sided 3M body tape:-p . That stuff will hold anything. Originally, the scoop had mesh over the opening, but a good hail storm took care of that. It wasn't very attractive anyway. After the mesh was removed, I had a little problem with the scoop vibrating in the wind at high speeds. 5 coats of white paint and a couple coats of clear has stiffened it up quite a lot and the vibration has gone away Heres a little better pic of the scoop http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/82Picture_075-med.jpg

While $50 worth of gauges and controllers is fine for my 18 year old wagon, if you have spent the money on a legacy, whatever mods you do, do it right. Cobb makes good stuff. The access port is a tried and true upgrade for the WRXs, and the street tuner has recently hit the market, it seems to be well recieved. I would imagine their upgrades to te new Legacy to be of similar quality. Also to be considered would be their exhaust. I met Trey Cobb while he was unveiling the new Cobb up and downpipes a few months ago. They were awesome. Definitely worth checking out The first thing I would suggest doing is posting this question in the appropriate forum and seeing what sort of respose you get there;)

All I can say is ..... eeeewwwww.. ick. They could have at least installed it on a car instead of just dropping it randomly on some hood. Thats a lot of cash for a scoop too.. You would do well to email them for the exact dimensions and mounting type, as well is measuring its placement on your hood for functionality and channeling of air over the intercooler (I am assuming you have an intercooler?) But it looks like it might fit, and if you like it, thats all that matters