calebz

+1 for timing belt. These old cars need them changed regularly. When the driver side T-belt breaks, the distributor stops spinning and you no longer get spark. Popo the cap off, crank it over and see if the disty is spinning. +1 for fixing that broken caps lock button as well;)

Thats actually the first cat;) My first vote is for a timing belt being a tooth off, but you said you have already looked that that. My second vote is for the distributor being a tooth off. I recently had my motor apart. Wasn't paying enough attention when I put the dizzy back in. idled fine, started right up.. but when I got to ~2500 rpm, it coughed and sputtered something fierce.. By 4k it wouldn't even run. and that was just running in the garage. Under load it was much worse. Needless to say I felt like a dumb rump roast when I finally got around to pulling the disty and restabbing it.

I would say its worth $600 in parts alone.

In WA, the exhaust has to go something like 6 inches past the passenger compartment.. The passenger compartment is defined by the location of the back seat and the presence of roll down windows in a sedan. I got harassed by a cop a number of years ago in Puyallup for the exhaust on my 67 Dart GT. 383 with fenderwell headers, Pipes dumped in front of the rear wheels. I was, however, a step ahead of him. The back seat had been removed and the rear window regulators had been welded in the up position. Ticket was dropped and Mr Officer was given an education in the laws he was attempting to enforce. The rules may vary from city to city or even county to county. This was a Pierce County Sheriff that I dealt with at that point.

The easiest way would be to have both the new and old driveshafts, then have the pieces cut and rewelded together at the appropriate length with the appropriate flanges. Expect to pay around $150 for the cutting, welding and balancing.

The hood on an RX is not the least bit heavy.. I have removed mine on my own a number of times and its not a strain at all. Without major reconstruction, your options on hoodscoops are somewhat limited by the width of the hump in the center of the hood. Heres mine. Its plastic and doesn't weigh a thing... not the best pic, but if you look in my gallery, you may find more to your liking.

87+ RXs and some coupes got FT4Wd Dual Range with Diff Lock

The belts won't slip off. The covers are there to protect the belts from debis and water. That said, I don't have any covers either. With a total of 5 EA82s that I pulled parts from, I couldn't even get enough of the cover pieces to form one good set, so I ditched them. It does make for an interesting time lining the timing belts up though.

Heh.. I've done that too. I have 300 miles on it now and tonight was the first time I have had it above 4000RPMS... 8psi from a TD04. Not bad Off boost power is better and off boost gas mileage is better as well..

More fuel, more boost More air in and more air out. Achieved by modified intake and exhaust. Bigger turbo helps a bit as well. Theres a ton and a half of EA82T performance specific info here. It can easily be had with a quick search.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/ Upload your pics there.. Every member gets a little space.

As far as I know they are just called a GL No special designation

If the old distributor is still in the car, remove the distributor cap (leave plug wire on it) Mark where the rotor is pointing by making a chalk mark or something on the motor or body right where its pointing. Unbolt old distributor and remove. Install new distributor so that the hold down bolts line up and the new rotor lines up with the mark you made on the body, motor, etc.. put new cap on the new distributor, hold the old cap up next to it and transfer the plug wire over one by one so you don't have to worry about whether they are on the right spot or not

You have made it this far eh? How did those timeserts work out? Hadn't heard from you since I sent them off. On my PCV system, the valve itself is plugged off. IIRC, the driver side vents and the passenger side sucks in. The passenger side is routed to the MAF boot and there is a small filter on the drivers side.

As far as I have been able to tell, there is no factory alignment adjustment on the rear of an EA82 car. I have seen camber-bolt packages on eBay for them, but I have never seen a set actually installed on a car and have no idea about their effectiveness

I am told that is more rare than an RX.... Brad just picked one up a week or 2 ago

My understanding is that a turbo timer is unnecassary on the newer generation of turbocharged soobs. Here is an excellent write up on why. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=465156 Here is a similar write up on Blow off valves http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=468038

So some of you may know.. I'm out of state on a little vacation right now. Driving down the street last night, pass a walmart and see.... a 1992 Loyale raised roof touring wagon. 2wd auto, 2 tone paint. Never seen a touring wagon newer than about 1988. Didn't even know they existed. Owner said the two tone blue/grey paint job was factory too.. Just weird.. Learn something new every day.. well.. at least once a year:-p

It should fit, but theres a good chance the front diff ratio will be different that your existing rear diff ratio. It may be a good idea to grab the matching rear diff if its available.

If the stock wastegate controlle rwas not hooked up, the ECU would be throwing a code 44 ( I think). Currently, I have my wastegate gontroller wired in, but none of the vacuum hoses are connected, so its effectively bypassed. I am out of state at the moment, but when I get back home, i will unplug it completely and see if the car's behavior changes at all.

After you confirm that the TCU is the problem, I may be able to get my hands on a 2wd 90-91 XT6 TCU locally.

The EA82s are 11x1.25 I would venture a guess that the EA81 is the same. Its a really oddball size.

See my reply to your post on NASIOC.. Same answer as given above;)

There is pic hosting provided by the message board. upper right hand corner of your screen, there is a link to the photo gallery.. everyone with a user account here has a little bit of space.

You will need the ECU, complete wiring harness and either the EJ transmission or an adapter plate to mate the EJ motor to the EA tranny.