calebz

I do belive 88RXsedan blew his PT4WD D/R tranny romping around in RWD..

Hey!! Thats way cooler than the 87+ digidash turbo thing~! Congratulations on boosting again.

The CEL and associated code don't actually have anything to do with te EGR. It actually refers to the EGR solenoid which is located in the intake manifold. They are a very common failure and a quick search , or even browsing through the first 4 pages of this section of the forum will yield at least a few links with some info on EGRs, Purge control solenoids and CELs in general.

I have my timing set to ~18. I haven't heard any pinging. It seems to be working out ok for now. We'll see how it does after some more good miles get put on it. Also using OEM HGs. So far, so good.

More info please.

Aahhh.. Got it. I am currently at 9.0:1 in an EA82t... so far so good, but it still doesn;t have many miles on it

Be glad you have that..lol EA82T is 7.7:1 :-p

Is it a carb'd EA82? If so, I have a set of heads I could let go for a reasonable price.

if you're talking about an EA82 car, the last year for the carb was 87.......

Provided that both motors are the same fuel system (carb, spfi, MPFI, turbo..) It should be pretty close to plug and play. If the motors are fuel injected and from different year cars, it may be beneficial to swap the intake manifolds so the manifold that came with the car stays with the car. The reasoning behind this is that the wiring harness plugs on the manifolds are slightly different from year to year (again depending on specifically what year car you are working on) Also, while the motor is out, its a good time to do some maintenance. Water pump, timing belts, cam seals, oil pump seals. This could save you some headaches later on. When you put the clutch on the new motor, a clutch alignment tool can be a handy thing to keep everything centered. . When you finally install the motor, it can be helpful to have someone up front with a 22mm socket on the crank pulley bolt turning it slowly to help the splines on the clutch line up with the input shaft on the transmission. Another tip to help us help you is to tell us what year and model the car(s) in question may be. You may not be aware, but in the US market, there are 3 different 1.8 motors, all pretty different. (EA81, EA82, EJ18) And finally, welcome to the board. The best tip I can give you is to become friends with our huge washington state population.

I also had a problem with the threads in the block stripping out when I pulled the heads off my motor. I used carbon steel insets on all 18 bolt holes and put it all back together. So far so good. The inserts are called timeserts. They actually make them in the right size and pitch for the EA82, so it was pretty handy.

There was a scanned copy of the 89 FSM (engine and associated wiring sections only) floating around here. I'll see if I can dig it up. Its the same as the 88. One more time. Don't overthink this. The ECU needs to be in the car. From there the next step is to pull the codes. If you are having a CEL with no operational difficulties, you are probably looking at something like an EGR solenoid or Purge solenoid. Both being common failures, easy to diagnose with quick code pulling and a DVOM and easy fixes. I have seen one of these cars with a failed ECU. It just happened to be mine. And when it happened, it was a total failure. You know the kind, burning electronic smell, followed by a complete spark and fuel system failure. I can't stress enough how much this resembles tail chasing at this point. Step 1 - Find a new mechanic Step 2 - Pull the codes Step 3 - Report back Addional note: If in fact your car is a turbo and not SPFI, the D-check connectors are not under the hood they will be located under the dash between the ECU and the fuse box.

An intercooloer can be put on any turbo charged car.. Its all a matter of how creative you can/want to be. I managed to get a WRX IC TD04 and about half of the WRX exhaust system on my 87 wagon... I'm sure you could do it to your SS if you wanted it bad enough:D

The downpipe shold fit. As well as the second DP piece and the mid pipe (although the mid pipe may require a custom hanger. Not sure if the tailpipe /muffler piece will fit or not. The uppipe won't fit as far as I know. Main reason being that the flange that the turbo mounts on is different. Now if you were to change from the VF11 to a TD04, you may have better luck there, but I don't know if the EJ22 uppipe is more like the EJ20 or if its integrated like the EA82

Conform Brian. Be like the rest of us.. You wanna be liked don't you?:-p (for those that have no clue what I am talking about...) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/82Picture_018-med.jpg

Not true at all. Having a BOV/BPV in a non stock (talking EA82T here) application definitely helps spooling between shifts simply because of the fact that the car is not having to deal with the instant slow down of the compressor that is associated with the compressed air not having anywhere to go but back. Compressor stall is a bad thing. In retrospect, "spooling quicker" may not be the best terminology. "not spooling down as quickly, thus having to use less kinetic energy to respool" is probably more accurate. Re: the HKS.. I had forgotten that it stays closed. I'm still not real keen on the richness between shifts. I'm more interested in richness on boost than off. RE: dash pot.. Interesting. I have seen maybe one or 2 that didn't work correctly.. ehh.. different experiences.

There are a number of things you can do. anything from a $10 MBC to a multi thousand dollar STi motor swap. Uppie, downpipe, better exhaust, bigger turbo, better IC.. But non of those things count as major engine work..

That could also be a problem. If the alt or battery are not up to snuff, it can cause all sorts of driveability problems on these cars.. Last time my alt died, I though I had really killed something major. It was terrible.

Oh? how does that work? if its venting to the atmosphere, the ECU doesn't give 2 ************s about what brand it is.. Already there;)

1- A BOV, by definition vents to the atmosphere. Venting to the atmosphere on a MAF based car can cause a number of niggling little problems. None seiously major, but all resulting in a loss of performance and economy 2- A BOV/BPV's purpose is to release pressure between the TB and the turbo between shifts and such. That is so the compressed air doesn't go slamming back into the turbine, potentially causing damage over time. A stock EA82T has a couple of things going in its favor. First is a relatively low stock boost. Second is, without an intercooler, there is relatively little compressed air trapped between the turbo and the TB when you let off the gas. Third and most important is the good old subaru dash pot. Its the little thing on the side of the TB that stops the throttle plate from simply slamming shut when you take your foot off the gas. a well adjusted dash pot can easily accomodate the relatively small amount of air a stock EA82T produces. Now - all of that said, once any of those parameters have changed, the usefulness of a ByPass valve increases dramatically. 1- add more boost? - more highly compressed air. Might be more than the stock set up can handle 2- add an intercooler? depending on the IC you add, you are easily doubling, tripling or more, the amount of air stuck between the turbo and TB between shifts. A Bypass valve becomes your turbo's best friend at that point 3- Raise boost and install an IC? - Better get yourself a bypass valve or your turbo will just hate you. Lag will increase, life will decrease. And finally, yes, there are way to vent to the atmosphere without pissing your ECU off. They are called non-maf-based standalone engine management solutions (megasquirt et al) Did I miss anything?

It really depends on the use you intend for the car. But overall, I would say.... HELL NO!! That said, wanna trade?:-p

If he was getting an EGR code, replacing the valve won't do anything. Its the solenoid that causes the code.

With the key on and motor off, you should hear the fuel pump come on for just a second or 2. This is the fuel system pressurizing. If it comes on and off every second and a half or so, its because the D-check connectors are connected. Check the codes and see what you come up with. And don't overthink it.. For the most part, those plactic connector covers do their jobs. The only real exception I have seen to that are on the coolant temp sensor (on turbo motors) and the knock sensor.

I'm confused.. My 83 brat with the Hydraulic lifter motor had a sticker on it that said something to the effect of 'do not adjust'

If you were dead set on a carb, in other countries, the EJ18 was available in a single carb version. The MPFI that comes on the USDM EJ22 is all around better though.