calebz

I removed the link. That is a porn sponsored site and not appropriate for the USMB. If you want it seen, I would suggest you find another host for the pic.

I have to admit, I am a bit confused. In half of your posts, you refer to your car as a turbo, in the other half, you refer to it as SPFI.. In a few, you refer to it as an SPFI turbo. Given that fact alone, I would venture to guess that no one is exactly sure whats is being ordered for what car. As was stated above, a turbo transmission fits into a non turbo car just fine. Only real difference in fitment is the spline count on the front axles. I think there is information missing here:-\

I don't think its lag.. It seems to spool up ok.. even under boost its just a little .. blah After driving it a bit more, the CEL came back on for a minute and I finally got a code stored... MAF Going to clean it and clean the contacts and see what happens. I have a spare I'll toss in there if I have to. Hopefully that takes care of the problem.

Sure thats possible.. May even work ok. However, if you are going to all the trouble to turbo an ER27, I would think that you would want to keep things as simple and efficient as possible. That way when its all together and the troubleshooting stage begins (and yes, there will be trouble.. there always is) You would have fewer components to troubleshoot. Whats the PSI and GPH on an XT6 fuel pump anyway/?

Working on that.. got $130 I can borrow?

Car: 87 Turbo Wagon. 9.0:1 CR, TD04, 5 speed FT4WD Problems - Gas milege - only have about 100 miles on the new motor so far, but it seems to be sucking the gas down rather quickly.. And I have been babying it for the most part. -Surging, general lack of accelleration from 2-7 psi. First gear seems fairly smooth, but 2nd and third just seem weak at the same levels of boost. Right now, until a few other bugs are ironed out, boost is staying around 7 psi. I have had a couple spikes up to 15-17 psi when the line to the wastegate split, the car took off like a raped ape.. but those were short duration spikes (less than 2 seconds).. So at high boost, it just goes, but at normal boost, it almost feels like theres a big hand in front of the car holding it back Vacuum - had another thread a while back talking about how I was only getting around 18 inches of vacuum.. now I seem to be steadily sitting in the 16-17 inch range.. Hosed the whole motor in carb cleaner today and didn't find any vacuum leaks CEL - cruising at 70 mph or so this evening, my CEL came on. as soon as I let my foot off the gas, it went away.. Here's the weird part. No codes. No stored codes, nothing but the normal blink on the o2 monitor that the car alwasy has that designates model or whatever Side note, unrelated - cooling system seems to be sucking rump roast too.. Everything is fairly new except the radiator.. So thats getting replaced soon

The older Turbo volvos use a dual pump system. One smaller one in the tank feeds a larger one under the car. Its an interesting set up at best. More often than not, The in tank pump is pulled and replaced with a walbro 255LPH (same one that is popular for the WRX) and the second pump is simply bypassed. i did this to mine and the fuel flow is substantially better now. IMO, 2 pumps are simply more trouble than they are worth

Keep it Your daily driver is getting old. The value of having a backup car is immeasuarable. Because the coupe is not you daily driver, waiting a few weeks for a part is not the end of the world. I just started drving my wagon again.. Its been a year since I last drove it. and finally, move to a cheaper part of the country;)

I may be talking out of my backside here (I don't do EA81s), but I was under the impression that when doing the 5 speed swap, you used the EA81 flywheel and the EA82 disc and PP. Also, you said they gave you brakes for an 84? Those should be the same as an 87 hatch

Depends on what year. Some had V-6s as well.. At least my 87 did

The EA81 cars use a completely different rear suspension than the EA82 or Legacies. I'm sure if you wanted it bad enough and had the skills to fabricate mounts and such, it could be done.. But thats a lot of work to go through for something that is guaranteed to break on a regular basis.

Depending on your abilities, I would guess that with the mods described you would be in the 16s. Sorry to burts your bubble

Cross posting is bad http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36442

theres a 3/16 roll pin that holds the axle to the gearbox. Pop it out with a punch, the cup should slide right off the stub.

Ignition pulse amplifier?

If I could get the Touraeg in the V10 deisel model, I would be all over that .( If I had the $$) I saw one at the auto show a year or two back .. Had driver controlled front, canter and rear diffs, Deisel V-10, excellent ground clearance, ungodly amounts of torque...

NIce RX Welcome to te USMB 1- Oil leak up front. Common leaks on the front of an EA82 are : oil pump, cam seals, crank seal. About in that order. 2- Drive train is strong enough to play in the dirt some.They can take a little abuse. Front axles are probably the most common failure, but good ones tend to last a long time and are easy to replace. 3- Look around this site a bit. This is one of the best, if not THE best site for info about your car. 4- Wheels are 4x140. Its a weird pattern shared only with the peugeot 505 and some 504s. There are options out there for mods. YOu can redrill to 6 lug (either wheels or hubs), There are a few people in Oz that have redrilled the hubs for 4x100. Most popular here is probably the 5 lug conversion. Search here for any of the above and you will get more detailed info. 5- This is about the the best online source for parts and info that you will find. There is little to no aftermarket for these cars. Modded old subarus are modded in the truest sense of the word. If you want something to fit on it, you have to MAKE it fit:D 6- 10 psi is a pretty safe thing on a healthy motor with a decent IC. People do run a bit higher, but the combination of performance and safety, 10 seems to do prwtty well. You can always get a bigger turbo;) 7- Light clunking noise in the rear. Check the rear struts for wear, check the rear diff hanger, and check therear sway bar bushings.

^^ Yup. We all miss occasionaly, Skip misses less than most of us

There are actually a few different starters. There are gear reduction , which I have seen in all of the manuals. and there are non gear reduction starters I have seen in a few random autos(the look very much like an older chevy starter) All of the gear reduction starters I have seen are the same size and seem to be interchageable. All of the others I have seen com in two sizes. One is a long bodied case that doesn't fit in the PB4wd or FT4wd 5 speeds. it gets in the way of the vacuum diaphragm Sorry I don't know what the part numbers are on any of them, all I know is I have seen 3 distinctly different starters in the 87-88 EA82 cars I have had over the past couple of years

85-86 EA82ts have the vane style AFM and a boost cut switch. Look on the passenger side, in front of the strut tower, Thats where the switch is on the rest of the 85-86 EA82T cars. THere should be two switches there. One controls the turbo light, the other should be the fuel cut/overboost switch. Unplug the hose from there and plug the end of the hose with something.

I had the same thing happen on my wagon. It just didn't seem worth it to me to fix it, so I just drove the piss out of it and then acquired a decent used shortblock, which is what prompted the current round of insanity and mods.

I test fitted a set of 450cc Mitsu injectors a while back. They fit pretty well.

Depends on the tires;)

My tires are extremely underinflated at ~32psi Max pressure on them is 51psi

You aren't being 'made an example'. You aren't being picked on. No one is out to get you. The law simply mandates that if you commit a certain action that certain consequences follow. Sucks that it was your first time. But , Pay to play and all that..