Indrid cold

The chiltons/reference books (yuck) say you have to take them in to machine shop to have them pressed into the "Steering Knuckle" ... no! This is easily done with out removing the knuckle and done in the driveway. This is all do it yourself, read up on it, figure it out do in the drive way stuff. Do a search in the "Search" on Axle replacement/front bearings and there are tons of stuff. dig and read and don't be in a rush the first time but easy and do able. New inner and out seals (about $14. each is recommended) and same part number. Everyone has their own method... this is what worked for me: I went to a farm store and got "shaft collars" (they slide over shafts and have a set screw to hold fan's/motors in position kind of thing), I got one just a hair smaller then the bearings (I set shaft collare against bearing and use a socket to pound on) to set the bearing into the "Steering Knuckle" (don't forget spacer in between). I use two shaft collars larger then the steering knuckle with i.d. big enough to allow axle to go through. I use these as spacers when pulling axle through the steering knuckle. I use the castle nut to suck in the new axle through the steering knuckle. Sprinkle in some extra large washers for the castle nut to press against the collars and you can pull the axel through once you get the nut started by tightening the nut, you will see... one way of many. Goes very quick once you figure it out. ................. this is how I set my axel nut torque, works for me. I took a board about 3/4" thick, 12" wide by about 20" tall, after the front is in the air and at a nice work height (always two supports under rig=no crush zone) I lean the board against the tire studs to mark their location and drilled out the holes so I could slid the board on like a tire with the bottom of the board just above the ground. (set aside for later) After axle is in, hub is on and axle nut is hand tight I will slip the board through the studs like putting on a tire (center hole allows my socket to fit the castle nut) the board on the bottom jams against the ground & prevents axle rotation and I can set the torque with the car in the air. An old mechanic told me to snug it up, loosen, possibly throw in a spin or two of the hub, .. tighten short of torque, ... loosen alittle and then set the torque... allign cotter hole slot. sorry so wordy... my Friday off and time on my hands! Hoped any of this helped.

Just to toss a suggestion your way: Part of any gathering is for showing others outside the interested group so they can see the uniqueness of the gathering. We can do camping etc.. but I believe the "showing" is a vital part of the distance traveled. A central gathering could be a possitive event. A location could be a resteraunt, a park, parking lot, Taco stand. It should be a unique location, not "Fred-Meyers". Example: About 30 min. outside of Jackson Hole Wyoming there is a little bar, it became famous as every Sunday afternoon, for who know's what reason, like moths to the flame everyone went there... no idea why... word got out and then the parking lot became fuller, cars lined down the little two lane hwy etc... it was a no nothing little stop that became a unique point to gather.... and has now became a tradition. Can there be such a place like that in or around Ellensberg? A taco stand?, coffee shop? Indian tee-pee selling gas? you get the idea...... possibly middle of down town there is a Indian cafe (dot on forhead not two feather on back of head-kind) that has the spiciest rice, or a Taco truck that kids like to hang out at the edge of town ... someplace, like unto the Subaru's is unique unto itself which allows us to stop, get out of our rigs, and relax while giving the straights (public) a chance to turn there head. Could you imagine years ahead that the location you pick, Brats from states away will funnel to this one spot for a root-beer, steak, pizza, yogurt? This could happen as we come in Fri eve or Sat morn when ever you say this thing starts or those who want to drive back down Sat Evening from the camping spot could meet up with those that got a hotel room in town to meet at the location. (there will be those who will want a hotel room) This could be a parade of Brats or just meet with a 2 hr show, from campground down, to a specific location.... "Shock and Awe" baby.... I like camping and majority would probably like to gather, camp climb etc... and that may be enough, but just tossing ideas here. Take a look around, think about it. If it doesn't fit into your plan then so be it. Sounds like your doing a great job piecing this together, it is a diffecult task, you can't please everyone. Set the date, make the call and we will abide. Regards.

I was scratching my head on that one too GD. I took the part number in and he was able to find it with that. Old guy behind the counter said he rarely sees the old ea-82 in there any more and the parts pic on his screen is so small he couldn't find it! Figure they didn't invest $ on up dating info on something that was fading into the past.... Thanks again all, this is a great site.

Thanks all, and Naru I appreciate the numbers this will help when I call them back today. I may be doing this repair for a trade on a possible EJ parts so want the best parts as is for co-worker and want no hard feelings etc.. FYI: My brother would go to the local Hydraulic hose store as they have a huge sellection of "o" rings all meant for different temps, oils etc... he used them on his Hondas for years on years... guy at store stated he got alot of mechanics business when looking for odd sizes etc.. Regards, Mike

Honestly I did a search.... I need the part number for the "0" ring on a 1990 Loyal, EA-82 SPFI head gasket replacement so I can order. This is that little "O" ring I believe it is between the head and the Cam-tower for the oil path. It has been 2 years since I did a head gasket on a Ea-82 SPFI, when I did pull the head apart there was "that" o-ring so I bought a full gasket set to finish the weekend job, ... this time I would like to buy just the 0-ring so I called local subaru and they don't show an o-ring in the system and that is what bit me last time. I called my local and Subaruparts.com and they both say their parts don't show the 0-ring... so help! any info is greatly appreciated... Answered!!! parts on order, thanks! *save #'s to personal records...

Thanks guys... great info. It's 1 am and a long double shift. I will get with him tomorrow and do as you suggest. with reference to the Auto tranny.... I like driving the manual trans but to each his own. and those two screw are toast.... they will come out next time.

I did a quick search, time is short and kid down the street needs some help... I normally hang out in the older roo's... kid down the street pulls up with his 4 door ej-2.2 powered what ever... says his "emissions light" comes on when driving... so I reach under and connect the two green connectors and have him roll the key to on (not start)... and looking for the stupid flashy light... somewhere...??? car is doing the pulse thing.. so I know they connectors/system in test mode... but can't find flash???? o.k., I do better with the ea-81's, so on the ej's I have no books, no nothing to reference, I want to help him but I am buried on a home remodel so search time is zilch ... so... where is the flashy light on this thing (my 88 dl was on the puter under dash), I looked all over on this 93 dash, puter, up down? and nothing... also.... this may sounds stupid but the two screws on each side of the steering column wouldn't come out... I jambed a putty knife in to catch a thread which has worked before but nothing... pried down, nothing... those stupid screw won't back out.... ???? any help would be greatly appreciated... and why oh why did he buy a subaru with an automatic???????

Passes are clear so Wetsiders could attend, weather is warming and the scheduale is open.... somebody find a place... date... etc.... Ellensberg area... (funny as my son just came back with the Brat from spending the weekend there.)

Where are you at? Post your location in your info box as there are members all over that could possibly come to your rescue. Don't be too frustrated with the no start issues as this is part of figuring them out and finding a cheap car and running it for years rather than making car payments.... there is a learning curve, pricey at first but take your time, ask for help and you will be able to figure it out. Possibly someone in your location can come and take a look at it. Look in the "Search" forum, look at timing belts, possibly a jumped timing belt/broken. There is a test you can do with the connectors under the hood so look for "Test connectors" or "why aren't these wires connected" or "what is this stupid green wire?" Listen for the fuel pump to pulse when you turn on the key.... but it will stop as it awaits the ignition signal. It could be something as simple as plug wires not running to right plugs, you need to align your "0" timing mark to plug #1.... If I remember it is 1,3,2,4 and rotor turns Counter clockwise. But with the other posts, focus on timing belts, coil, or fuel pump. I loved my 88 wagon... great rig. Be patient, look for a subaru repair manual, e-bay, on here or craigs list, you can do this just give yourself some time. Congrats on your Subaru.

welcome... nice looking Brat! also: we are all patiently waiting for the WCSS #12, date release. (West Coast Subar Show) This is a must attend event and will be held somewhere in the N.Wet. usually in Aug-Sept. Hope to see you and your Brat attend.

I have done quite abit of lock wire on fastners (Nukes) and thought about doing it on certain critcal bolts but the problem is getting those tiny holes drilled through the corner of the bolt head to feed wire through and to do that = drill press and x's time, probably take to machine shop $. If a person wanted to do a show piece or to assure that particular bolt doesn't come off... sure... but like the above posts show is that thread locking compound is standard on vehicles and proven. because it isn't normal...doesn't mean you can't do it. That pic gave me a major flash back.

I love the price of that roo!... Once you get these figured out they are very user friendly. any tips? A thought to keep in mind is that if it was parked then possibly it was acting up BEFORE you got it and may have to do some trouble shooting.... Sitting a couple years usually doesn't keep it from firing up... running rough yes... but yet, still running. So you need to just have a little patients and bond with the car and each time you lift the hood it is an opportunity to learn. So yes, fresh gas. Assure spark, clean the plugs, etc.. if it stopped firing look at the belts, or jumped belt... and possibly throw the timing belt covers away etc.. Alot of good info here.....

Sounds like the ignition module in the distributer. Remove distributer cap, remove rotor and there it sits..... I hate the shot gun effect (replacing parts) but when all else is checking good then it leaves a main possibility of coil or module. A new module sells for like $70 at parts dealers but a rebuilt ditzy is like $80. I did the same thing you did and figureing worst luck if I bought one and wasn't the problem I would then have a spare... turned out for me that was the problem. oh... congrats on motor swap etc.. I love my 2- 84 roo's.

... I guess I lost track or confused... (happens alot) I thought you were living in CA.? so that is the comment of "in a mud hole 15 ft from your house" as you now have new home in Oregon....? Must have missed that post.... and now a new arival (Subaru) Congrats on your wagon... and those dice make the rig!

Is this the Brat that was for sale in Tri-cities? If it was .... I missed that one... But congrats anyway... 86 for $150. it is a score!

That is the same story ..."The Beast I Drive" told to me, ..... did your thrashing also involve shooting car with shot-gun and rolling roo on its side? Bill you can jump in any time....:cool: but I am stealing another mans thunder.... Welcome fatboyjake...

Welcome Revolution....... You brought your "parts" to the right site! Will keep an eye on the sales area..

Welcome and you found a great site .... yup.. I think you said it right that they will be easy to work on but yes they have their "quirks". Youre "Search" topic will be your friend... also start with a fresh cut key and some spray on that ignition switch, I believe you will find the Master Key #'s on your passenger side door lock..that's how my 84 Brat was and ignition switch worked great after... others are just worn out... do a search on that and other topics located on your task bar above... enjoy... and yes we like to see pics here...

+1... praying for snow....

Appreciate the input..... I found out the State Patrol inspection is $65. Also they will "Gift the car" back to me, so no tax. It looks like $65 for inspection and $40 or so for re-licensing... so if I want my car back it will cost me about $100. Up date: Well, my wife...(any time a guy starts with, "Well, my wife" it can't be good!) ... Well, my wife is not happy... and for those who don't understand the balance that exists between her happiness and my existance.. well... lets just say she is not keen to the idea of this wagon making it's way back home... something along the lines of "$100 to buy your own car back WRECKED!" I have a soft spot for that wagon but funds are so tight and Christmas around the corner... I will have to let it go... that DR was a FUN rig.... The rack and tires must stay with it... ?, don't understand that... so it may wind up at auto auction. Might find it at copart.com or it may go straight to a crusher.... sad....

Anyone ever reserect a "totaled" vehicle in state of WA.? Had an 88 dl, wagon that I gifted to a family relation... sadly he was hit from behind and insurance totalled. They wanted to know if I wanted it back and thinking about whacking off the back and do the Brat mod. to it. The gas tank was not damaged, back doors don't open thus just whack the back off and front seat is twisted a bit so need a new one...kid hit him driving his grandpa's turbo Subaru wagon... major crush on the hood etc.. I don't want to see this go to a crusher, (my second roo) but... depends on re-licensing, title etc.. Problem is now that it is a total loss do to collision the below now imply's. Should you elect to keep the damaged vehicle, we will notify your state Dept. of Licensing that the vehicle was deemed to be a total loss due to collision. You may be required to surrender the title so it can be re-titled as a salvage vehicle. You may need a state police safety inspection. Also, if you keep the wrecked vehicle, even should you repair the damages, your insurer may not be willing to continue to provide collision or comprehensive coverage. The good news is they got the car gifted it to them, drove it a year and insurance is offering $1,200. which they can use to go find a car .. (cash problems) and I get the wrecked wagon back! Up date down below in yellow:

+1 for the first snow and drive.... we are still dealing with freezing rain East of you.... still waiting for the first snow dump.... if you want to up your traction put studs all around (I found a good used set for $100) and then it is nearly unstopable.... amazing how those trucks with high center of gravity and wide tires just slide of the road!

If that clutch is the same as a 84 Hatch I may be interested... just dirt poor till spring....

Your just up the road from Jerry (Bratsrus1), several junk yards... you will have to have your drive line lengthend, new cross member part from Jerry and 5-speed but it totally changes the rig... well worth the cost-time etc... Love mine!

except for that little scratch on the side it looks Cherry!