Step-a-toe

Oh Bennie, you are so right on factual evidence needed here. My EA82T can do almost 800 km to a tank when we talk in general terms When I went for first drive with twins ( carbs not turbos ) my fuel gauge dropped pretty quickly but it was just a coincidence that the gauge started to drop faster for top half of fuel and sort itself by empty. No negative use change to fuel at all. So what signifies a Generation change of EJ22! Will an ecu help decode? Or just a comp test? Wondering if OP used his old injectors or new engines injectors in the manifold swap. Bunking up injectors with poor spray could do harm to power and economy

Nothing wrong Bennie, just because I know you a little better, I seem to read into things differently to the way a post is going and your very rare almost out of context reply reads as if you missed finer detail. If I may in the future, point out if it occurs again. But, mind you a common one is some poor fella trying to fix his EA and someone else says "EJ it!!"

Have you got all the engine management components from old EJ to swap back into new donk? Doing one by one looking for lost power might reveal cause

Fifty fifty chance it will return if fuel is leaching gums from sides of tank. I'd be driving it each day, looking inside tank and dosing up with fuel cleaner in with fuel Good work so far

Over ten years since last post, three since quidam signed in Cross your fingers to get a reply

Can you dumb down the first sentence please? Standard points dwell meter? What does ignition control point look like? I am of experience of just two of these modules going, sometimes won't start immediately, then dead, let you down somewhere, need ride to spares board and back, replace, all good. Only test was no spark, grumble grumble module, mutter mutter

I found my stems absolutely coated in the stuff that smelled if stale fuel not of oil I admit I did not try to use anything to dilute it prior to head removal EA81 only use valve stem seals on inlets and it was inlets affected, so would have required springs off to remove stem Seal to float solvent in ..but what harm if you pull manifold to renew what can be suspect inlet gaskets, breaking the obligatory manifold bolt as it's shank corrodes to the manifold, poor thinners down ports to soak?? Next time I would try first

It sounds typical of the module as it croaks. They are plentiful and cheap enough. Shared with late 70s, early 80s Honda and quite a few other makes from memory, and early or maybe all fwd carby EA81. If you know how to test the module between dead and alive please share

now we are gonna have another testimonial that his EA81 goes so much better after putting a Weber on it ( among doing a few other things) Good work and thanks for ending the story, so far. Once had a workmate in office environment theorising about so many possibilities, spent unnecessarily when all it was...tight valves

Yeah, Ricky, you picked wrong with me belts covers. I even add extra sealant either side of water pump to ensure those belts live in their own sealed environment Can just imagine a big yellow winged hopper just causing a belt to slip - hence my term - bug covers I am with carfreak on this

It may be due to stale old fuel or fresh fuel dissolving nasty contaminants on the inside of the tank and fuel lines. No one ever leaves a fuel tank full for long term no go car and this is where we humans get bit Little bit of fuel, lots of air space, chemicals in fuel oxidise out , leach out if fuel and cling to insides. Gums and varnishes. Along you come, start it, run it and park it. Those gums n varnishes leave a shiny, wet look, black funk on valve guides from just one short drive EA81 bend push rods I found, you just found rockers fall out on EA82 I did head service, new gaskets and had a tight. sweet ride for three months before something popped causing steam-engine I did not even perform autopsy, three the whole engine in disgust GD advice could be true, once again

I want to know what differed to make the EA81S spin out to 8,000 rpm ! Oh to be in a position to do a Safari ( ala EA81 with those special after sale, Subaru supplied heads with IDF48? Weber's) to an EA82 , but that gets into big cams, solid lifters, adjustable by shim only .... that Chinese Hitachi seller not named Ali - son of Mr and Mrs Express?

I have notes from years ago Green fabric in Subies are 28A Red fabric in Subies are 38A So chose FFL in light blue colour (20A from memory to replace green fabric 28A but some may choose to use pink FFL 30A I think Green FFL are 40A so very close to 38A of red fabrics So fuse link box could look pink, green pink for those daring to go over by 2A each Or blue pink blue for scaredy cats like me FFL term should find correct leg length fusible link in plastic. Have just measured legs to have ~15 mm inseem

Yeah, that pic of battery, just above terminal in photo is a black plastic rectangular box with six male blade terminals...this is where the fusible links belong A fabric coated wire fuse in red colour code and green coloured fabric , need three from left to right for full functioning electrics More modern plastic FFLs can be used in place. Just looked at my EA81 1989 though likely same as your year, red fabric for middle, green either side in fabrics. I can add a photo of modern FFLs which come in various ratings,colours and leg length

Wish I saw this before. Proves I am not the only one on the internet to speed read and miss bits. ( thought it was only Bennie )

You found Chinese made versions of Hitachi ??!! Linky?? The dual carbs on EA81 were a 306 which I thought were a 1600 EA71 carb , differing from EA81 Hitachi number I know not

Aha, second cat?? Our market was only the down pipe cat. I also have 2.5" off it down through a hotdog on to a sports muffler that keeps it below 89 dBa. Between the two of us we should be able to resolve Cycle Guys weirdities with his 86 XT NA MPFi with Denso dizzy On the Dizzy's going bad on you , are you running the original coil part number?

Best for set tar take off then get back to fwd before diff bind occurs. I am guessing the last letter of your VIN is a C before the last six numbers Or someone fitted an auto dash ssction

Correct! I put this together for myself setting at the turbo timing of 20 with notes on position of rotor button and timing belt on cam cogs, dizzy components for successful start up. I have shared before with good results for S1 turbo based on timing marks not belt install marks. I like and respect your method described and plan to look at it next dizzy fit- you may have something J have never heard of before. But this isn't getting Cycle Guys query sorted, giving him a few perspectives. I am also after the best service from my EA82T so wondering what dizzy you rely on and what size exhaust you increased crossover pipe size to?? Installing dizzy differs from my manual instructions to use #1 TDC

We did not see these twin cover Denso on EA81 in Australia

My Vortex Turbo RWD

Mine too Get your vin out. It will tell if started life as an auto If, I say if your model same as my 85 sedan from factory, the button on dash was for if engaged , to automatically engage the rear wheels whenever brakes applied ( using brake light switch as the sensor!) to assist with braking, Or if the kickdown switch was activated to assist with best traction for acceleration ( not fastest) Or if you turn wipers on, suggesting road surface could be wet, giving you four wheel sturdiness Hell it was a fun option ( to take mind off it being only a three speed auto

Now, just keep driving it until the next thing goes wrong

Trust no one