Step-a-toe

Maybe plug up the lower weep hole and plumb the top one into the cabin to drop on accelerator foot or rig up a pair of wires and alarm to trigger when coolant makes contact?

Hmmmm, "silver washer behind oil pump pulley" Ha, first you called it a shim, now it is a washer.... I think it is just the belt guide, can't even recall if it is or isn't just part of the pulley As Dave says, the oil pump does not have to be timed to any other rotating component. Actually there are cut outs of the pulley "washers" that I use to access the pump to block bolts, so always turning pump on its own. Never heard the cock and ball story you found !

Photo of shim or dimensions to jog memory?

May as well renew the rubber hoses in the fuel rails too. I like your patience

Good to see you are still lurking this forum Jes. Still got the blue ink in your pen

Crumbs ! The idle speed numbers you give help us understand better. I think you can get an idea of how the O2 sensor is running by reading the ecu led in the side. Wonder if I am correct and you find that info in manual. Sounds like it is possessed !

Wasn't just MPFi that changed the EA82 MPFi, it got quad runner intake manifolding and twin intake port heads

You have checked everything people have suggested. If you have plated the EGR and left it plated, plugged off the PCV by capping it and leaving it capped, plugged off FICD between thermostat housing and intake.... What else have we got...? Cap off the booster and vacuum ports you have nowhere but the throttle body to leak air to change speed at idle... So then it has to be the load of the transmission causing speed to drop...yeah? Your idle speed don't go higher than your set speed does it? Rather drops with load of P and D and goes back to your idle set speed?

I'd rather not thanks Bennie

And where the rotor points is important

Need you to differentiate revs happily past idle in gear, stationary, foot on brake or driving out on the road? If you get it driving on road at normal road speeds and loads, how does it all go? Is this query currently just the same as you started this post three pages ago? Sitting in car all ready to go off , operating temp, you select D and idle goes bad, stalls?? If you left footed the brake, right foot the juice to keep a higher idle, prepared for a WHACK THUMP into D, keep higher idle, could you drive off merrily or even as if you stole it, or it giving you the pips and hate it. Would it give you no trouble until you come to a stop? Or will it give you grief backing off down a hill?

Ok , I suggested to T in a fuel gauge, or I used an old mechanical oil pressure gauge. Dave suggests to do the same. Think I suggested just after the fuel filter. Dave hasn't said where, but when you think about it, once you know pressure at fuel filter, somehow you want to check on the injector side of fpr

Thanks. I had been planning to inspect cap anyway. Even on inspection they looked sort of OK, but it was using the prehistoric tool known as a points file I could see the minor rot. I run draw through propane ( and a little butane) so need ignition in the healthiest condition

I think you put your finger on it, Ido Many are and have to be budget conscious, others find thrifty a challenge. I used to send stuff about the country from time to time to others I got to know even paying the postage just to streamline it. It has never happened in the reverse though mind you Elf_reddo has offered his skills more than once in the true old fashioned club spirit. To the US postage is a killer on our standard postal system but I am gonna try a dummy quote on a one kilo package via freighter I use , and actually have used to send a 14*14*30" toolbox 72 kg to North Dakota three years ago A$440. Just heaps of detailed photos, maybe feeler gauge check....

to the turkey specifying 22 mm long M4 0.7 screws for both hold down screws for my Series One MPFi dizzy cap Hitachi they ( must have been a team effort) caught my memory out ! one screw is not supposed to be longer than 16-17mm or it hits the vacuum advance /boost retard housing put it in, screw the cap down , cap not secured, and you can start to screw up the threads. lucky I had the time, a tap and other old caps to compare to remind self ! The cap made in Japan, boxed as Standard, with a packet of same length screws included, bought from Rock I am thinking this error did not occur in Japan. Replacing cap more as preventative measure more than anything else. Gave engine bay a wash n wax, n rinse yesterday and got the moisture under the cap this morning. Tossed up to check it for moisture before drive off, but last few washes had no moisture, so ... First incline away from home and she coughed. The terminals inside the cap no longer like new so out it comes to join the other retired dizzy cap collection

I don't recall what carby was on 1984 Suzuki Sierra 1.0 litre 4SP 4WD, but gosh it must have been designed with bad fuel in mind. How easy was it to pull the jet plug it may have been ( bit like 60s Stromberg BV1), drain the water and fuel from, drain the full tank purchased not too far away in the middle of nowhere, method with fresh fuel and off and away !!

EA81 ?

When I have weird electrical things going on I use those blue or black enclosed diodes you find in the EA81 and EA82 wiring looms. One problem was sending me nuts, until about #5 diode was added to my additional wiring and components

What happens to those that appear here and FB saying they need an oil pump for EA81? Do they give up and bury their EA81 ? EJ convert club? I found a few more in my hoard down here in Australia. Wondering what they are worth used and what it costs to send a one kilo package to the US

And would you use diode protected relays to prevent any weird feedback? Thanks for expanding on your original query

Found these amongst my stuff PSA part 9606.68 Cost me about A$27 each Bought as a sample to see what was really needed $400 to kit out a car ! Really nice quality Ended up with ...was it Daniel, brat4x4 from Sacramento?? made a batch

Anyone understand ? Does your query need rewriting? Do you now run non standard, new radio?

Consider it a challenge !

This post mentions primary barrel. I actually like to use the secondary barrel to dribble the teaspoon measure of fuel down for this kind of start. I feel if pour down primary, the wet fuel falls to floor of a cold manifold as soon as foot goes on ACC pedal. I imagine if poured down secondary of these cars with vacuum governed opening, wet fuel will dribble through the fine closed gaps of secondary butterfly and it's bore and more likely to assist agonising the wet fuel more gradually than if poured down primary

The screw is an idle speed air fuel ratio fine adjustment I think it would only cause things to carbon up if you did a lot of idle speed in traffic. If all the other circuits are delivering their required ratios, all other driving should really clean things up inside combustion chamber Usual first step to set a basic for idle mixture screw is to screw gently in until it stops, then a predetermined number of full turns out. It may be 1.5 turns out to get running and up to operating temps then adjust by ear or vacuum gauge reading off intake manifold port. Or go get the parts interpreter to have another go. Something else must or might have been going wrong to improve it after his fiddle. Ready to learn more? Buy a carby rebuild kit, take lots of measures and photos as to how things look, get some waX and grease remover or carby cleaner and start a new thread