Step-a-toe

How is it that someone goes to the trouble to make such rubbish? I think the aftermarket are not a good quality rubber for the job and the genuines are that plasticky EPDM ? the genuine coolant hoses are made of

More a paint than a dye isn't it? I tend to think dye is a liquid stain. This stuff leaves a coat. Used whatever brand on a centre arm rest that folded up between bucket seats. A white one was donated to me, did it in Black gloss. Blended in with rest of the Ford sixties black vinyl. Was amazingly flexible and durable. After 25 years still only gave a few hints of cracking or stretching where elbow squashed cushion. Better to use this type than the removable rubber skin spray stuff. Nice job

30 years of dedicated and never had to push one to a supply ( the guys in the BRZ behind me did that ! ) The sender got stuck just above empty and I got 720 km from 80 litres. Had the rescue gear on board when getting used to a new LED gauge reader , when it suddenly went from orange to red to splutter on the incline before the supply. And in the odd occasion I have limped it to a pump on vapours working their way from tank to combustion chamber -idle power only

I think the internal cleanliness is more due to oil changes on distance. Be thirty years since I pulled down a wet fuel, cast iron six, 70,000 miles after a full rebuild ( 6,000 rpm in first not so good for an old six with a 4,800 redline - I eventually broke a ring ) Valvoline every 6,000 miles with a filter. I washed block down with kero and hosed off on white concrete and no stain on the concrete . Wash off was clean. That was cast so hard to see the clean. Alloy certainly pops when clean ! Ionstorm's rocker is typical of my finds and the golden hue of the block, I am usually pleased to see them this clean

In a way I take a certain pride when I pull apart my builds. Built this in 2008 , 40 thou oversize slugs boxed as EA71,EA81,EA82 one size fits all "compromise" pistons 20/60 0.235" lift cam , solid lifters Ran it in on petrol mostly highway driving varying speed to bed the rings and bore together. Then dedicated propane via , eventually, a bigger bore EA82 spfi intake and EA82 carb y pipe. Over about 9 years , 120,000 km, mostly hard work towing a trailer and loads. Finally popped a gill and gave me a lot of buttermilk only in PCV system, think I got a lot of blow by as well. Oil and filter changes every 10,000 km Want to pull it's still shiny slugs out to inspect rings and bore

I have done nearly 700,000 km in EA Subarus and three water pumps. Not thinking of replacing them at that recommended interval !

I have one of those, arc cut slot down the centre turret from a loose coil lead. Was new too. Only gave a slight hint it was loose, under big load, tiny hiccough , nothing else. Glad it was a simple fix for you

And heaps of suggestions for EA82 no start posts in last few pages. Before you do anything , have you got a compression gauge to tell us what you have at this initial no run stage? Could be very useful

Glad Bennie did not say 'just' clean out the AC evaporator. Not that you have asked, the heater tap stopped with EA81 so coolant is always passing through heater core so it will always reflect the coolant temp. Air is directed or bypass to the core depending on if you want hot, cold or in between

May you be cursed if you swap breeds! What a find !!

EA82 and it's 5MT AWD in EA81 1989 Brumby EA81 engine and gearbox cross members EA81 gearbox mounts and modified brackets to suit 5MT 195.50.15 tyres In 4th, no engine load, down run or flat road Measured up to 80k/50mph Flick RHD steering wheel to the right ( also centre of the sealed road) I see gear stick knob shift sideways outwards about an inch. Flick steering to left outside edge of road and hardly a reaction seen at the knob Is it gonna be a rear engine mount known as a gearbox mount, or an engine mount? Which one, which side anybody care to guess? A month ago I had to realign the exhaust to gearbox side bracket when replacing missing bolt. Bolt got Loctite this time. After this task my downpipes heat shield razzle in decel and have just noticed exhaust crossover turbo uppipe is suspiciously close to cross member gouge

OK OK Maybe it took me an earlier five hours working out how to do it without what I was told was step #1 in the manual - remove windscreen. My shirt cut is to leave centre panel controls in place and juggle them through their hole in the dash each way. Saves one cable adjust later. I wrote up a procedure list as I went as well. My times are for dash pad swap, cracked out, sexy in

Yeah, but you checked in in the MY EA81 forum here, not millennials. Funny you mention heater core start point. Australia had a poorly built locally made Leyland. An old mate's first job in Oz was on its assembly line, installing the heater cores.....

Ten plus hours at your prices !! I have done three dash swaps, two hours out, two 30 back in - no AC

Hmmm GD often tells people to go with a newer EJ powered something....but your Loyale is newer than some EJ stuff ! So, deffo no spark and starting spray of choice does nothing? The parts you are changing in, coil and igniter I think it is on coil bracket - know they work?

Not that previous owners of any old cars I have bought would know, a radiator cap is a service item. Easily and cheaply replaced. Can do wonders

Air pockets don't allow heat transfer so bits get hotter!! If you don't get around to a good repair , that hose is a handy to nobody 5.5mm ID

Peacock eh? Only works while you have it open . Good idea for filling, but no benefit while running

I did my first EA82 timing belt swap over 25 years ago and admired the access ( better than any east west I have seen or done), admired the step by step checks for instal absolutely hated the brass inserts in the covers for getting screwed up, so I use a neoprene screw washer or O ring as a fastening method. They have never come undone or sized on me since. Keep these babies cool, below 3/4 on a working gauge and sender set, keep oil in them and they give decades of service. I have started to do belts n tensioners at about 60 or 70 thousand kms as a courtesy to the old girls

Fighter plane starter motor starting sound like a good option for the XT !

Perspiration in its socks? Sort of why we need to check and top up, I know, it must be going somewhere ! We have a 16 year old that has never been changed or topped up since factory...noticed other day the level has dropped and one of the hardest to access hose has green whiskers ....so , not gonna make 17 years. Your case is good contender for a chunk of Sealwel

I have the theory that this hose is sometimes important for air pocket escape. I have done a repair to block by taper tapping to 27? TPI in 1/8" to accept a 45° brass elbow male into block then female to take a barb fitting. This neatly clears the MPFi twin port turbo intake. Another I have bypassed the TB due to rotted fittings - no freezing up. Another I didn't do the bypass, I totally taper tapped and plugged the holes, right and left of manifold

No help from me here, but what instead of an engine , an electric motor and lots of batteries?

What is terrible throttle response if you say drove and idled fine? In my book it ain't driving fine if it has terrible throttle response. Manual? Clutch not toasting is it?

XT ECU is in the rear, under the parcel shelf