TomRhere

I would think you need to get the Dash Indicator Light wired in. It is part of the Altenators wiring system. Not real familar with the Subaru wiring in itself, so I could be wrong. But I have swapped the GM Alts into many different vehicles, including farm equipment. You don't really need the Dash Light wired in on these, but you do have to apply a momentary power source to the Dash Light wire to encite the Alt to put out juice. I've done this with a push-buttom switch. Just a thought on the problem..........

I remember reading about Scott's search for a TO bearing for his BRAT. No clue here as to part number, but he did find one to fit his D/R-4spd and ER-27 combo.

Does he have the ER-27 5-speed type clutch?

The one I have was brand new when I put it on the EA-82 engine that was in my '82 BRAT, with D/R 4spd. Had issues at 1st, but it was due to getting to much fuel. A Fuel Pressure Regulator helped there. Did a bit of tweaking with idle speed and mixture screws to get it proper for the engine. Can't say much about the low-end torgue aspect, as this was the 1st EA-82 engine I owned. But, there was much improvement over the Hitachi that was on it. Top-end was real good, could cruise on the highway at 70 - 80mph, and still accelerate if needed. Last road trip in it, I got 31 mpg, not to shabby me thinks. I've swapped the EA-82 intake and Weber over to the '84 with Auto. Need to do more tweaking of carb settings yet, and ignition timing, but it's running better than with old carb. When the engine is still on the cold side, it'll backfire thru carb when I hit the go-pedal, doesn't do it when fully warmed though. I'm "Happy" with the Weber vs Hitachi............

I'd be interested in one each myself..............

Dunt know ifin it's a stock Soob part or not. But my '84 has one under the hood. Mounts to a bracket off of the jack holder. Looks like it was meant to be there really. Not original to the BRAT, as the bracket for the tank is White, and the BRAT is Blue. Both the '82, and my old '86 had a jug stuck in where the jack was suppose to be. They were even identical in shape, not original equipment though.

If you get one made for the Subaru engine, it'll screw into the Passengerside front of the engine block, there's a plug there. My '84 BRAT has one, but I haven't even so much as checked to see if it still works. Kinda moot really, as it gets parked to far away from a power source to use.

I like that therory.....

Only actual problem this one can invision with someone shaving down the flywheel is getting it to thin in the area of the clutch surface outter edge. What I'm talking about is the intersection of a line drawn from the clutch surface outwards to the outer circumfrance of the flywheel, (y'al following me?). If this intersection was turned to thin, it could be, well, interesting. Not saying , "don't turn the flywheel", just trying to point out a possible problem for someone trying this themselves, and taking of to much meat in that area. Just something to be mindful of if you're thinking of putting your flywheel on a diet.

Pleasantly surprized at this really.. The shorter airfilter showed up in yesterdays mail. Just ordered it Wednesday night, and it's here already. Wasn't expecting it until next week sometime, as it took the Weber six days to get here when I ordered it. Now, just need the spacer.................. Kinda rough driving it with the stiffness of the cable. Dry roads are ok, but wet roads, or white stuff, makes it a bit more "fun" to get moving. But she does run a whole lot better now with the Weber on there. Think I'll tackle the govenor cleaning today, see what that does to the shifting issue.

Not sure what the gizmo is called right now, but it mounts on the backside of the DS strut. Hose from it runs over to metal tube on engine. Check that system out. It was the source of wierd idle on our '84. Metal tube had cracked near the rubber hose. Actully found it, trying to fix heater hose leak.

Sealed bearings have a (usually) Black plastic seal between inner/outer races. Shielded bearings have a steel piece in place of the above item.

Drove it to work yesterday. Spark-knock to beat the band!! Not good.... Pulled and retimed disty, much better now... Soldered the butt-splice on the cable, think it'll hold now. also got some slippery stuff into the cable housing. It helped the stiffness some, but it's still there. Ordered the spacer mentioned above, along with a shorter air filter. Will put carb on normal way when everything gets here. Plus go back to the stock cable. I just needed to get this back on the road, as the rear-end in my Dodge is heading south on me. Will say there's a big improvement in how she runs now with the Weber on there. No more hesitation, seems quicker too. Free flowing exhaust will be installed soon. Now, I just need to get the tranny to not shift outta 1st at 20mph. Always done that, just haven't done anything about it yet. Going to clean the govenor, and get a new modulator for it. But first, a trip thru the car wash to get all of that yuck off the tranny, and other areas, from blown boots. Looks like 4, maybe 5 have blown, from the amount of yuck there.

The ER-27 is going into my '82, not this '84. Did get the cable repaired tonight, along with adjusting the valves. I'll be attempting to drive it to work tomorrow, where I can do a better job on splicing the cable back together. It came apart where previous owner of the '82 had used a butt-spice terminal to mod the cable. Still haven't figured out why he did the mod, but he did... I used a butt-splice myself, but we have silver solder at work. Some of that on the splice, and she'll stay put. Or atleast I'm hoping so.

When I first read the opening post, I was thinking; Oh No, Subaru + Elk = Not purty!! Was expecting alot more damage than what shows in the pics. Glad all occupants were okay. Bonus on the car being fixable.... I know alot of people that have whacked a Deer around here, my Wife included. Elk be bigger than Deer be. Deer can really mangle the front of a vehicle. Was just thinking it, the Elk, would've "really" mangled the car.

No worries there Fox. Disty is back where it started, normal factory position. Had plans on doing all of the finalities today, but got side tracked. Had to install the Pioneer system I bought the Mrs., for Christamas, into her '95 Grand Am. That was a Fun-Job, that I really don't want to repeat,,,,EVER!!!!! Left outta here at 8:30am to a co-workers house to do this. Jerry has a MUCH BIGGER garage than I do, along with more playtoys to do this stuff with. Didn't get done until after 4:30pm.! What a PITA, along with PITMB/LB, RK, LE, not to mention the BHG. Wouldn't wish that job on anyone. Only thing that didn't get removed/replaced in the interior of the car, was the upper dash and front seats. Thinking they could've been removed for more access room though. Not looking forward to replacing the speakers in the '95 Dodge Ram now, after going thru this one. Hey!!! I just jacked my own post!!!!! Cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Anyways,,,,. I get back home here, and decide to try starting the BRAT, just to see, as it was still "to dad-burned-cold out". Hit the go-pedal to set choke, and snapped the "pleepity-pleep, pleeping" cable. So now, I'm back to square one. :banghead: AUUGGHHH!!! AUUGHH!! AUGH, AUGH, AUGH!!!!!!! Yes. I have a slight attiude problem at the moment.............. DEAL WITH IT!!!!!!

http://www.dune-buggy.com/turbo/index.htm He's talking about Turboing a VW engine, but the info contained is some good stuff.

HLA = Hydraulic Lash Adjuster. Could be Cam-Follower fell out due to following possibilities; Collasped lifter, allowing to much free play in there, gravity took affect. There's varnish, or other "stuff" on valve stem, causing it to be somewhat sticky. Valve hung open, just a bit to long, allowing C-F to fall out. Valve Float, due an "over-rev" situation. Weak/broken valve spring. But I'm not thinking that myself. Couple other things that just don't want to come into focus at the moment.. I do know the Ford 2.0, 2.3L, (upright in-line 4 cyl) engines had problems with their C-F's falling out for a couple of years. Yeah, it's a PITA problem, but it's an easy repair. Well, maybe not so easy on a Subaru engine that's still in the vehicle, but still. Just put it back in. May out-last vehicle, may fall out again next week. Give the engine the MMO treatment, along with a flush/re-fill of oil. See what happens. Just my .02...................

Never gave that lil tid-bit much thought. Guess I'll have to look into it myself tomorrow, while I finish up the '84. Hmmmmmmmmmm..............

It breaths.......... It runs....................... It sounds like a damned Singer sewing machine................... Still need to adjust valves in it, but it runs.......................... Kept the Weber in reverse mode, wound up using the accelerator cable off of the '82, as it was already modded, for whatever reason. Still may have issues there, but time will tell.................. Had to play with disty timing, as I apparently mucked that up during the previous attemp with Weber normal. Also had to re-install the push-rod for #3 intake valve, as the valve wasn't opening as it should have. I had been turning engine over by hand, and could've swore that I saw that valve work right, Stuff occurs, what can I say........... I'm just tickled pink that it runs now. Been a long time coming!!!! Got 2 cases of Miller Lite in the fridge, I'm going in, head first...................

Remember a friends Chevy doing something simular to yours. Idle somewhat smooth, but backfired, (thru intake), under acceleration, even in neutral. Tore into it and found an exhaust valve wasn't opening, due to rounded cam lobe. Not saying you've rounded a cam lobe, but it could be you have a cam follower that broke, or fell out somehow. T-belt could be off-time too. My '82 spit and sputtered like crazy when I 1st did the T-belts on it, popped out of the intake and exhaust. Idled okay, but didn't want to rev any. Had them out of time, due to no flywheel marks to set them to, went with best guess, WRONG!!! Did finally get it right though..... If you have a somewhat good idle, I wouldn't think a stuck, broken, burnt valve here, as you would have a miss on that cylinder, even at idle. Think I'd pull the cam cover and have a look-see in there.

I would give the rear of the Wagon a good look-over, everything from rear wheel wells, back. Fit, and seal, of the back hatch, missing rubber drain-plugs in the floor area, damaged body panel, so on so forth. Exhaust fumes will enter the back of a Wagon, or Van for that matter, easier than any other body style of vehicle, due to the shape of them. Aerodynamics come into play there. With it being cold, an exhaust leak should be easy to spot, as you should see a plume of exhaust from the area of leakage, if there is a leak. You could have an assistant, cover the tail-pipe with their gloved hand, only for a second at a time, while you look/listen for leak. You don't want to block the tail-pipe long, just cover-release, cover-release, cover-release, at about the timing of the reading of that. Hope you find the problem. Ain't healthy to be breathing exhaust fumes. Welcome to the Board!

New T-stat's can, and do, fail... Some will stick in the closed position, some in the open position. If stuck open, it'll take eons to get engine up to proper temps. Which sounds like the problem here...........

Been awhile since I had one apart, but I think there is a spring on the arm, under the boot. Be eaier to swap caliper with a used one, than it would to try fixing yours. I'll never try fixing one again. Total P.I.T.A..................

Thanks for the input Guys! Think I'll get the spacer and a shorter filter element of course, and put that puppy back the way it's meant to be. Less agravation that way... Been to that site before, been awhile back. Seems like they have just about any slap this carb on that engine adapter.