TomRhere

Update: Finally had some free-time to work on the BRAT yesterday. Got most of the items on the check-list done; new fuel hoses, block-off plates, exhaust mounted, water hoses ran. Decided to pull the Weber and install it backwards on manifold. Re-ran fuel lines as they needed to be longer. Now, I need some assistance from someone that has done this to their Weber..... Just how do you run the throttle cable???? I spent an hour or better trying different ways of running it, no go... Seems the cable housing just isn't long enough to run it properly for a reversed Weber. I stopped fiddling with it before I got agravated. Pics of how it's ran would be nice, but a good explanation will do also. I tried doing a search on this, but came up empty. I do remember seeing pics of this, been awhile back though. Anybody??????

5 gallon bucket works as engine stand, until you need to pull oil pan that is...

Welcome to the Board! On your tail-light problem. Have you checked for voltage at the harness connector for that side? Are both Brake-lights "on" with the same brightness, or is the affected side some what dimmer? If it's dimmer, could be bad ground. Try this: Prop something against brake pedal so brake-lights are "on", check for brightness of both being equal. Now, turn "on" the tail-lights. Does the affected sides brake-light get dimmer, or go "out"? If so, you have a bad ground. Ever see a vehicle with one tail-light "on", and the brake-light on the otherside "on", which goes "out" when they hit the brakes? Or, no light on oneside, but tail-light comes "on" when they hit the brakes? Bad ground(s) will do that. One circuit is using the other circuit for its ground, vehicles do wierd stuff like that, makes it fun to work on them.

Just added your wiring details to my notes. Thanks for the info... :) You're using the Stock Dash Tach? It reads the 6-cylinder RPMs correctly? Would love to see this Hatch in person one of these days......... On another note: They cut the Mon-Fri overtime down, and cancelled week-end OT for a while. (Darn, only 67.5 hours in this week) Maybe, I'll have time to get caught up on household chores, and have time to wrench on the '82 now. One can only hope!!!!

3 Cheers to Arch. :drunk:

Been to the MS site myself a few times since someone here posted up the link to it about a year or so ago. I've read thru the Manual a couple of times, but I'm kinda at a loss just reading it. Thinking I need to "bite the bullet" and order me a kit, maybe having it in front of me will help. I kinda need the "hands on" thingy to go along with the reading part. The more I read this thread, the more I'm thinking of doing this on the '82 BRAT when I get the ER-27 in there. Liking the idea more and more. MS-n-EDIS just sounds so much better than stock set up. I will have lots of questions when I do get to that point. Actually, I have one now... What Ford model would I be looking for to get the EDIS off of for a 6 cylinder engine? Not up on current Ford models at all..

I could be able to do C-bus, it's not that far away. Alot would depend on work-load at the job though, hoping it slows down here shortly, but who knows. Spring sounds good to me, warmer weather maybe. Getting so I'm not to thrilled about the cold anymore. A day at the Yards, with a bunch of fellow Soob nuts sounds good too...................

How about these? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33590&item=7941183232&rd=1 Same seller, just listed in his other auctions link.

Hey Arch, got a few self-drawn diagrams here I can send you via email. Drew them out to help me understand the circuits involved. May help you, may not. Trying to follow dima's diagrams was a headache for me. Nothing against him meant, just those suckers are huge!!!!!

Running Mobil 1 5W20 in all of my vehicles. No problems sofar with it.

Probaly just corroded connections at the horn itself. Had simular goings on with the '86 I scrapped out. Found Major Corrosion, setting up house-keeping at the terminals on the horn, Would advise checking there.

Both Scott and Adam are running their's with out the diode in, with no problems. So it's really not needed to run, I just thought if I could find one, I'd go ahead and wire it in. Got this harness all ciphered down to engine/ECU runs, along with gauge leads. 'Least I'm thinking I do.... Would appreciate any info you have on it though, once you're up and running that is. Yep, it be alot of hours. Been like this since middle of May. Can't remember last time I worked a 40 hour week. Pay checks look good, but it sure does wear on a person after awhile. Has helped me get alot of the parts for the BRAT though. Was going to do it in stages to get it done as planned for final look. With the work load the way it is, I have no-time to work on it. But, I'll have everything here for when I do finally have time to do so. Only thing that will be needed when she rolls out of the garage, will be body work and paint. Hopefully, things will slow down a bit after the Holidays.

Auuughhh! Done typed this out twice now. Dail-up service keeps dropping out. Haven't done any wiring-up of the harness. But did do a search-and-destroy on non-required wires. Thinking that colors were right on it, for the most part. Then again, it's been 6-7 months since I've had time to look at it. Found the Diode on the interior portion of the harness. It's right where it does the side-to-side split over the tranny tunnel. It be White, with a White connector. Gave thoughts to the Neutral switch, but that's about alll I can say at this time. Just don't recall what it was at the time. Brains going into nuclear melt-down.. It's only Thursday, and I have over 66 or so hours, (since 7:am start-time, Monday), on the clock now. I still have to work the week end. I'm to old for this crap anymore...............

That's a "blanket warning", printed to cover their *****es really. If you where talking a vehicle that was plumbed front axle-rear axle, then yes, replace both on same axle. Seeing as ours are a cross-plumbed system, I think you'd be ok to do just one for now.

Long time no hear from you, Fox!!!! Hadn't thought about flipping the bracket, disty, and wires. Hmmmm..... Did give thoughts to spinning the Weber around though. It and the intake are the only things EA-82 wise at the moment. Haven't worked on it since Sunday night. Been held hostage at work last 2 days, 14 hours Monday, 16 hours today, (got called-in early due to robot malfunction). Probally be this way all week as we have guys in from the Rebuild Crew, giving us a hand in getting things installed around the place. Someone has to be there, while they're in the building, that be me. Kinda sucks really, seeing as we have a 2nd, and 3rd shift maintenance crew running. But my boss wants me there cause I know all of the systems better than the other guys. So it's into work at 5:am, out of work at ??:00. Probally get stuck working the weekend too. OOOOPPPS!! Darn. I was supposed to be at work at 5:00 this am. Guess I was to tired to remember to set alarm. It's now 5:27 am as I type this. Think they'll miss me? I really don't give a hoot at the moment. Been thinking of finding other employment anyways..........................

I started this little project about 2 months ago, workload at the job has delayed me in the doing of it. Anyways, the '84 had a Hi-crappy carb on it that was dying, big time. Have a 6 month old Weber sitting here out of the '82. Okay, swap time.... Of course, I manage to snap-off 3 of the intake bolts on the '84. Bought a set of heads off Ebay-$50 delivered. Got new gasket set-$65 delivered. Everything else came off without a hitch. Now, I have a set of heads to play around with, see what I can do to them. :) Installing the EA-82 intake onto an EA-81 engine, isn't a simple bolt-on swap. Few mods have to be done to intake itself. There's a couple of bosses on the T-stat housing which needs to be removed, as they interfer with the vac unit on the disty. I even removed and plugged the water tube located there. Had to tweak the vac tube on the disty abit also. Things are tight in that area. Also, I had to bend-down the bracket that holds the tube off of the waterpump to heater hose, as it sits to high for the manifold to sit on engine properly. This may be due to the Weber itself, but I had to pull the disty up, and re-clock it to the crank. Hoping I have it timed right, time will tell. This is due to part of the choke mechanism interfering with #4 plug tower on the cap. Now, I have to fab a bracket to hold disty clamp to the engine. Found this out after doing mods to manifold, as I had the disty cap off. Thinking the water tube could've stayed, but the bosses had to go anyways. Even the one lower down that holds the ambient air temp sensor, (on ones that have it), as it still would've interfered with the vac unit on disty. Not done yet. Still need to bolt up Y-pipe. Need to get some replacement hose to re-do the small water hoses. Finish up the de-emmisioning of the engine. Got all of the block-off plates made, just need to put them on. I had to cut my own gaskets to re-mount the Weber and adapters. I pulled the carb off the manifold, before I pulled manifold off EA-82 engine. A good thing I guess, seeing as how much I had to man-handle the manifold. Don't need no errant piece of junk mucking up the works in there. :( Hoping to finish it up tonight after work. Update will follow....

Scott, subarubrat, has one in his BRAT also. subarubrat.com Look under the My BRAT section listed on the leftside of the page. You'll want to remove your original tank, and plumb in the cell. Not 100% on this, but don't think there's a gauge hook up on them. Thinking along the same line for the '82. Could use it's tank for in the '84, as it leaks if I fill it over 3/4 mark. Plus gauge unit is shot.

Well, because you'll basically destroy the caliper if you do it that way. There's an extremely coarse threaded piece that is held to the back of the piston by a somewhat thin strap of steel, which can rotate in it's groove in the piston. This is part of the E-brake system, and is actuated by the movement of the E-brake lever on the caliper, which forces the screw-like piece against the piston, which is the pushed against the brake pads.. If you just applied linear force to the piston to push it back in the bore, I think you would strip-out that thin strap of steel, or damage the screw (if I can call it that). These 2 pieces act like a self-adjuster for the E-brake system to compensate for wear of the brake pads.

There is a cammed switch in the wiper motor that stops the motor when the blades are in the parked position with control switch in "off" position. Maybe somehow, this switch was arcked closed when you pulled the jumper cables off. That would cause wiper motor to stay running all of the time. Would try swapping in a different motor to check that idea.

Possibility of some deposits in the engine being knocked loose from the "specific hard bump", and it is now partially clogging the pick-up tubes screen. Would suggest dropping oil pan and having a look-see there.

Start with seeing if I can find my garage floor again. I have stuff laying all over the place in there. Been wrenching on other peoples cars, and just tossing the old parts in the door. Been working long hours at work, so "free time" is rather limited, hence the making of the disaster in the garage. Then, it's pulling the heads on the '84. Snapped off the manifold bolts attempting EA-82 manifold & Weber swap. Found a set of heads on E-Bay for $50.00 shipped to my door. See if I can locate another rear axle for the '95 Dodge Ram I own. It's howling, not real bad, but howling gears aren't good. R & P is worn, spiders are loose on cross-pin. Just plain cheaper and easier to swap whole axle. Slap a new muffler on Wife's Grand Am. She don't like the nice throaty rumble that the holey one under it is giving off. Put some plastic up on a couple windows on the house. Was planned to get new ones in over the summer. Not with the hours I've been working..... So, it's plastic time.... Get the plowblade and chains mounted on the rider, and get it fired up and running. Should've had that done already, seeing as we got dumped on Wednesday night. Only about 3 - 4", but I'm to old to be shoveling that stuff anymore. That, and the driveway is to big for shovel work, need powered equipment. I can park 10 - 12 vehicles side by side in it, that's big......

http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1493&highlight Think this will help you out. I'll tell you up front, the diagrams are huge......

Fire-wrenches, and Glue-sticks. Gotta love 'em!!

No pics here. The engine ain't in yet, it be sitting on the opposite side of the garage from the BRAT. Can say though, that the measurement from engine mount stud, to front pulley is roughly 17-1/2", on the ER-27. Not enough room in vehicle, forward of crossmember for it to fit, without some major fab work done to radiator support. That is, if you try to stuff it in there without doing a lift first. Then you gotta find room for radiator, somewhere. Seeing as the extra 2 cylinders are added to the front of the engine, (ER-27 vs EA-82), it "should fit" the same way, side-to-side clearance wise. But don't quote me on that, as I haven't done that much measuring of things related to that issue.

I've had the axles out of all of the BRATs for one reason, or the other. After doing the intial torque of the axle nut(s), I find that they are "loose" after a 100 miles or so of driving. So, I would suggest a retorque of the axle nuts after the vehicle has been driven a bit. Last axle I changed was on the '84, a new axle, instruction with the axle said to torque to 170 ft lb's, vs the 145 ft lb's that is listed in the manuals. I did so, and it still was "loose" after a bit of driving. No clue here as to why that happens. The '82 did it even with new bearings/seals, axles, fresher hubs and washers, ball-joints, tie-rod ends, control arm bushings. So that kinda puts a therory of worn part(s) out of the equation. I just re-check the torque on the axle nuts every so often now. Owned an AMC Eagle Wagon, push button 4WD vehicle, It did the same thing, but only on the DS axle. ??????????