TomRhere

Grade 5 bolt would be the proper choice here. Grade 8 is for Mega-torque applications, which you ain't doing in aluminum. Have to remember the 1/2"-20 tapping trick myself, just incase the inevitable happens to me.

Would suggest taking a look at the pads again, just to make sure they a sitting in the caliper where they are suppose to be. Could have them in wrong.

I hates when that happens!! That is one place on an engine, where I would use a Heli-coil for repair. 'Specially on a known good, or rebuilt engine. I'll catch some flack on this, but...... You'll be okay to re-use the gasket. Hasn't been on, or under torque load, for that long. I have done so in the past with no ill effects. But final choice on that is up to you.

Middle-end of October would be good for me, I think. Depends on work load at the time. Don't know about a drive up that far though, that's a trip.

Coolant Temperature Sensor, perhaps?? Just a thought..............................

Welcome to the Board..... Y'all down under have a different way of calling vehicle Models out, so I can't really give insight on things associated with that. Other members here can.... One thing I know I can say with great confidence is: Nice Subaru there................

Well, ifin it's a carbed engine, I would guess a weak accelerator pump in the carby. Just sounds like it could be that. Other than that, would check for a vaccum leak somewhere, that would come in on the high rpm side. Not really all to familuar with how Subaru did/does vaccum sorcing, but learning.

Onliest thing I know is; any and every time I've had to remove the axle nut and associated parts, I've always had to re-torque the axle nut within a 100 miles or so. Kindly like somet'n ain't seat itself right. But I really don't have an answer for that one.

Was an apparent miscomunication along the lines on this deal............ 'Tis truly sad I agree, on the loss of an XT-6. Even though I'm guilty myself of parting one out. Body was just to far gone to save. It's organs will live on in others though. Makes it easier to take that way. For lepetitprince: On another note; Jim (86subaru) has a '86 BRAT that can be bought, if you're interested. I can get you down to his place, need to pick-up some things from him anyways. You two get together, let me know..............................

Going out on a limb here, ........... But re-check your disty to crank timing, IE: #1 cylinder on compression stroke, disty at #1 plug wire tower. (You did say you changed plugs and wires, could have them off time, as in 180* out). The pop thru the exhaust is why I say that, means it fired a plug sometime during the crank-over.. Plus re-check for proper rotation/firing order on the cap. Could be you've already cured the "initial problem", but caused another in trying to get it running again. It happens to the best of us!

Now that SUCKS, big time. Maybe I can help you out on your next one.

Sounds good at this end, also... Been contemplating "Double A-arm suspension on the front of my '82 BRAT, with either a coil-over shock (Koni) or, the shock inside the spring, mounted ontop of the upper A-arm where the strut would've been. Thinking it would make "alignment" easier that way, seeing as I'm doing a 12" lift under it. Have to contemplate on the "rear-steer" part abit more. Sounds abit scarry to me, as in having it want to, "Left turn, Clyde" at highway speeds. Double "A-arm" on the rear does sound like a good idea though. So does a 4-link set-up. What the hay is a 5-link set-up anyways? Heard of them, just ain't seen one. Thinking 31" tires here also. Planning on using front/rear 4.11 diffs powered thru the Nissan T-case. Not liking the problem of snapping axle stubs, period!!! Thinking going anything taller on the tire, would put to much stress on the stubs. But what do I know............ All is still in the planning stage right now. Amassing needed parts and what not. If I ever get off of these "kill-ya" work hours, (60 - 70 + a week), I'll start putting a wrench to some of it. (Only worked from Wed. to Sat. this week, and still did 64 hours). I'm getting to "OLD" for this crap!!!!!!

Sounds like bad T-stat to me too. On the fan not running part.... The temp switch on the radiator grounds the fan circuit. Take that wire and put it to a good ground, preferably the battery - post, the fan should run. If it does, then it's either the temp switch, or the ground wire from radiator to the radiator support has lost it's connection. You may want to run both a "hot" and ground to the fan motor though, just to be sure the motor is good. Easier to do if you pull fan out of car.

I have the complete exhaust system for the XT-6 here, would need a new muffler though. I would need your old Y-pipe back so I have it for my engine, to build a custom system off of.... May just need to replace the brushes in the Cybrid steering pump is all, but....... Could be a number of different things wrong with the front brakes, from stuck caliper, bad flex hose, ect...... I'll send an email off to the guy that bought the XT-6 shell from me, see if he's willing to sell some parts from it. But, there is no front/rear suspension stuff under it, do believe the struts did go with the car though. If I 'members right, all the struts worked, as did everything else on the vehicle. Cybrid steering pump was good, too. Nothing would have to be un-bolted from the vehicle. I totally stripped it out, and threw inside what Miles and I didn't want. The Cybrid steering on the XT-6 takes a special fluid, can't use regular steering fluid in them, it will ruin the seals. Not good..... Give me a couple of days on this. I'll be at work most of the time over the next 3-4 days. Got a BIG JOB hitting the door this afternoon, and we have to have everything up and running by Monday, Tuesday at the latest. Otherwise, we all just might as well bring our toolboxes back home.

Sorry, would if I could, but tied up at work all weekend.

Managed to get the PS one out tonight, it fought a good battle though. DS one is still in there, only it's much shorter now. Have to get drill and taps from work. I bought a set of Metric taps, but they're cheap junk. Can't even get it to start straight in a good hole. Taking them back after work tomorrow.

Hatch and BRAT doors are the same, window glass is different. The regulators should be the same though. I have one here from an '86 BRAT, if you can't find one closer to you. PM me, and we'll talk price. I'll have to rip it out of the door yet.

If you haven't gotten the pulleys swapped yet, you can swap the rear cover and stator windings from the good one to the front half of your old one. Remove the bolts holding the case halves together on both units. Keep the stator windings with the rear cover on the good one. On the backside of the rear cover, there's a small hole in-line with the brushes, use a paper clip thru the hole to hold the brushes in the retracted position. Do one at a time, and the most rearward one first. Put the casing halves back together and bolt them together. Now remove the paper clip. You should be good to go. While you have it apart, take a good look at the slip rings where the brushes ride. They should be somewhat smooth, and not pitted. A little and light touch with some fine emery paper will clean them up, if needed. Wipe them down good if you do that, the grit will eat-up the rings and brushes if left on there.

I wants, I wants, I wants............. Don't leave it sitting un-attended for to long, cause I'll have it...........................JK:slobber:

Well, you can put me in on the "Membership List" on this one. Was wanting to swap the Weber over to the '84 from the engine that "was" in the '82, (EA-82). Anyways, wound up twisting off both of the most forward bolts, the long ones, one each side, on the '84's engine. They be soaking in PB Blaster as I type, and will get another dose in a few minutes. Be about the umpteenth time I've sprayed them since they broke, hoping quanity of spray out-weighs the amount of rusty crap. Really torques me off about the PS, as it supposedly had the HG done just before I bought it. So much for that garage, won't include it on my list of favorites, (it be somewhat NW of Baraboo, Wi. for those wanting to know). Why don't they use Anti-sieze/ thread sealant on bolts like this? Don't even appear that the factory does either,....... Hmmmmmmmmmm................ Steel bolt into Aluminum, think there'd be a problem with that George? Nahhh, it'll be good to go, mate. No offense meant to anyone named "George", or anyone from the land down under. Just slightly irratated here is all....................................................

Please clarify that statement for those of us that don't know all of the idiosincrasies between EA-81's and EA-82's. Just asking is all..................

Have they showed up yet? Just asking.

From what I've read here, and on other Subaru boards, 1-7/8" on the lead pipes is about as big as you'd want, then go either 2", or 2-1/4" the rest of the way. But this was for a basically "stock" engine setup. If you're going to port/polish the heads, and do a bigger cam, you may want to go with 2" pipes off of the heads. Try to keep the lead pipes equal in length as you do this, it helps to balance the flow. On another note; I built my own 2" true dual system under my '82 BRAT. It had an EA-82 engine in it, running the Hatachi carb at the time, and bone stock otherwise. I did swap a Weber onto it later, plus the Accel coil. I didn't really notice a loss of low-end torque, and she really liked to cruise on down the hiway, with the 2" pipes, even with the Hitachi on it. This was from the heads on back.

Plumbing issues aside,..... Will the EA-82 rack physically bolt into an EA-81 vehicle? Or would one have to move the attachment points?

Sounds like you had a good time there. On the Wagons PS issue of overheating the fluid. Why not install a small oil cooler in the return line? It would help some on keeping the fluid cooler, even if you do swap-out the rack and pump for another unit.