TomRhere

No real differences in Insurance costs here for the 3 BRATs, other than a couple bucks for the difference in the years. Now the real problem was getting the out-State Titles, for the '82 and '84, swapped over to a Michigan Title, 'specially on the '82. Had the Title for the '86 with me, but Lady said "the year difference would make a difference on how they where classified". HUH?!!??!! Said they're both BRATS, a small pick-up truck, why would that make a difference due to years. Anyways, 45 minutes later, (to do 5 minutes work), I finally get the Title swapped over. Guess what, it's classified the same way as the '86 was, as a truck. Total waste of time. Simular story on the '84, but didn't take as long to convince the Lady, (different one), that it is a Subaru Truck. Now it won't matter anymore as to classification. If you use the truck for pleasure use, you get car plates. Use it for on the job, you get truck plates.

I know it's a bit late, but I just ran across this. Go to autospeed.com and click on the tech section. There's a 3-part series on purchase and use of a multimeter there. I haven't read thru it myself, but it should be some good info for those needing a multimeter.

Possibility here that all you will need to do is re-torque your axle nut. Been afew posts on here about having to do that, I have myself.

More thoughts/ideas on the problem, 1st, what does the smoke smell like? Coolant has a sweet smell to it, oil is kinda pungant, ATF will make your eyes water-up/burn a little. All look sorta whitish coming out of the tailpipe, but oil has a blue tint to it. 2nd, do a compression check when cold, then one after it warms up. May show which side is the culprit if it is a bad head or head gasket. 3rd, you said you squirted oil into the cylinders. That could be your problem with the smoke. Will take a bit to burn it off, 'specially if you put lots in there, as stated earlier. 4th, on the no want to idle syndrome. Does it start to slowly die down, or does it start missing and sputter to a stop? If it slowly dies down, could be plugged exhaust as stated earlier. Sputtering to a stop could be that it's starving for gas. You put new filter on it? Not real up on FI systems, but learning here. 5th, What was the reason to do the engine in the first place? If it was a junky motor, it could have filled the exhaust up with oil, water, what ever, and this could be part of the problem. 6th, check the torque on the intake to head bolts. Possible small leak coolant could be from there, and increasing as engine warms up. Like I said, just some thoughts/ideas/re-hashes, in no particular order.

Just visited your site and put myself on your list. I'll be getting a subscription as soon as they are available. I totally agree with others here, that it's about time something like this was done. A layout with 50/50 coverage of old/new Subarus, How To/Tech sections, Readers Rides, Classifieds, Meets/Events schedule, and of course, gotta have the "OOPS!" section.

My .02 here, I've done the front bearings on all 3 of the BRATs in my sig. Used a press the 1st time around on the '86. Just used a punch and whammer on the others. Reason being, it's just way time consuming trying to get the knuckle(s) set-up on the press so that everything is true and level for pressing the bearings in/out. Then you have to repeat the set-up 2 times for each side of each knuckle, once for removing, once for installing. As for removing the knuckle from the vehicle, I just back-off the tie-rod locknut, (just enough to release the rod end), and unscrew the rod end from the shaft. Then I undo the clamp bolts for the strut and ball-joint, and remove the knuckle. The axle is left on the tranny, and knocked out of the knuckle. Takes me about 45 minutes a knuckle, start to finish, using punch and whammer method vs over 3 hours for both sides using a press.

Don't forget to remove the door panels and flush-out the inards of the doors. Be sure to lube everything inside afterwards.

Where can one get key blanks from? No-one around these parts has any to fit the locks, and I'd like to get some new keys made.

WHOA! WHOA! WHOA! Copper for brake lines?????? NO NO NO!!!!!! Never Ever do that!!!!!!!! It may work for "normal" brake applications, but it won't stand-up to the pressures of a "panic-stop". You can generate over 2000# of line pressure in a panic-stop situation. Copper lines will not hold up to that. Besides, copper lines won't hold up to the vibrations of the vehicle going down the road. It will eventually fatigue and break, leaving you with no brakes again. Best to use steel lines, and just replace all of them, if you're having problems with them rusting. I know it's a pain, but it's safer that way. I've re-plumbed a few vehicles myself. I work as a Machinery Maintenance/Repair Tech, I know a thing or two about hydraulic systems.

Jim owns enough Subarus to keep you busy for a while. You'll have them all up and running good by the time you leave there. Sure wish I could put you up for a while here, I could use your assistance. Haven't laid a wrench on the '82 in over 2 months, at this rate it'll be next spring before I get it done. Just don't have the room right now, plus the Wife has been having her "power surges" (as a friend of ours calls them), lately. Not a good time to have anyone staying here.

Man, were you lucky! Could've ended a lot worse than it did. After you get done hosing out the car, invest in a few cans of electrical contact cleaner, spraydown every connection, switch, circuitboard, ect, ect, ect, add infintum.

Very well done!! Checked the website out, nice set of pics of the jump. I've caught some air myself, but nothing that high, 3 feet maybe, not no 6 feet.

I could use a set of those myself. You have a PM.

Me too. Me too. Me too!!

BRATs of course....The only Subaru vehicles I've owned Bought the '86 in 02-2002, the '82 in 12-2002, and the '84 in 12-2003. After driving all 3 of them, I have to say that the '82 is my most favorite one. Can't wait to get it back on the road, I miss driving it.

Would also suggest checking the battery cables themselves where they are connected, meaning the end terminals themselves. Have had a few over the years that were corroded inside of the terminals. Even had a couple pull right out of the battery terminal end, with a minimum tug on the cable. Just some thoughts....

Having the band adjusted to tight will cause you problems down the road. You'll either burn the band up, causing slippage, or it could break where the servo contacts it, then it don't work.

Bleed down refers to the ones that feel stiffer. Adjusting hydro lifters can be a real pain at times, atleast for me anyways. With the plugs out, you'll spin the engine fast enough to pump some oil pressure up. Also puts less strain on starter motor with plugs out. They don't like a whole lotta cranking, tends to get them a bit warm. To tight on the lifters ain't good. I'd rather have them a bit loose, and adjust them in after engine is running. But that is on "V" and "I" engines, haven't done a "H" engine yet, so not sure on how difficult it would be to adjust them with engine in car..

Yep, bad bearing. Fastest way to do it is get another knuckle from a yard, swap it in. Not to hard to change bearings, done it both on a press and on the garage floor. Actually easier on the floor I think. 1st time doing it, would say about 3-4 hours, start to finish. Don't want to rush on this job. Be sure you put the spacer ring between the bearings on re-assembly, otherwise you'll be popping a bearing back out to do so. Been there, done that.

Guess I'll be re-mounting the one in the '84 so it's upright. No want dead coil! Same goes for the one for the '82 when I get to that point.

Looks like fun was had by all, with a few exceptions. Wish I could've made it down, but my plans were changed by the Ruling member of the house. Steve, sorry I didn't meet up with you out on the road. Would've been there, but I didn't know you where driving over Friday night. Thought you were driving over on Saturday morning. Need to get down there and pick up my stuff that Steve and Jim brought for me.

He's also looking for a diagram (with picture) to wire up a DPDT switch to the light. Used to be one in the USRM, but it ain't there now. I have/had one here, but finding it seems to be a major undertaking in where the H is it. Still looking though. Anyone here have it for him?

No wiring diagrams here, so I can't say that this circuit, or that circuit gets power from here, or there. And I don't know much about your year. But the first thing I would do is check the fuseable links. Pull the box loose from the mounting bolts, and look at the underside of it also. I had a connection break-off under the box. To look at it, it looked good, but there was no connection there.

Sorry guys, won't make it on Saturday. Long story there in, can't post it here. Try to make it on Sunday

Sent Steve directions that are real easy to follow, ifin y'all are going to not stop at C'bus on the way to Butler, that is. Basically, you'll pick-up US-30 just West of Pittsburg, it goes clear across Ohio, where you'll get on US-127 North to US-6, where I'll be waiting for you, then we'll convoy into Butler. Less turns and road changes that way, easier for multiple vehicles to follow. See you Saturday.