TomRhere

Where, or to whom, do we send in donations, both for road repair and vehicle recovery efforts??

I will ante up too. Could've been one of them stuck out there myself. Was wanting to go, just didn't have the time. Darn it!~!~! That "mud" sounds like some really nasty wet clay. Got a few places around here with it. When wet, it's just plain mean stuff, and it dries up like concrete. I'm pulling for those still caught in the goo. To bad it's so far away, (10+ hour drive), got a John Deere 544D Load-All at my disposal. That should get them out. Just no-way to get it there. Good luck, Guys!!!!!!

:slobber: Lookin' GoooooD!

The drill/sheetmetal screw method works great for removing the seals. As mentioned, use caution when drilling and inserting screws. Upon replacing the front crank seal, Do Not drive it in to far. You want it just past flush with the face of the bore it goes into. Otherwise, you'll block an oil passage. The T-belt drive cogs should slide off of the crank, may need a little help from a pry-bar. Pay attention to how they are on the crank before removale. They need to go back on the same way, and they can be put on backwards if you're not carefull. Talking about the lip/belt-guide that's on them. I stand guilty of doing this myself, but caught it before I had the T-belts back on. DOH!!!!

Ahh, another piece of the puzzle has been put into place. Now, was the clutch slipping before this, or is it slipping now afterwards?

I feel your pain Jim. The local yard here crushed 3 Soobs in one day. Seems me being the only one buying parts from them, just wasn't enough reason to keep them around. What really sucks, is one ws a '87 BRAT, lots of good body panels left to be purchased on it. But no, we had to crush it, need more room for these wrecked ricer cars. Can't be having a classic collector item hogging up valuable space now can we???? AAAAAAAAAAUUUUUUUUUUUUUGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I had one heck of a time getting the '82 to run after the Weber swap. Turned out that I needed a Fuel Pressure Regulator. Some others needed one, some didn't. Took me awhile to get the right setting on it, but I finally got it where the Weber was happy. Don't think the fuel pump is a stock unit, it be way noisy, 'specially when I put the loud pedal down. Rattles something fierce. As soon as I get some new intake gaskets, the Weber and the EA-82 manifold will be going onto the '84. Hoping I don't have the same problems again.

Murphy's Oil Soap is good to use for cleaning the interior pieces like the trim and dash, door panels, duct work. Leaves a nice scent in the vehicle for quite awhile afterwards. Not unlike the smell of a new car. Some spray-on/vacuum-off, carpet cleaner will help for the seats and carpet. Especially if you get the kind that helps get rid of odors. Placing some baking soda in some small containers under the seats will help asorb any odors, also. I've used the plastic containers that some of the electrical tape rolls come in. I just cut afew holes in the lid, pour in the soda, replace lid, and slid under seat. Change it out, like once a week, maybe sooner. All 3 of my BRATs had mice nests in them, especially around the heater system. The '82 has finally aired out, the '84 still smells a little, but getting better. The '86 was the proverbial Mouse Condo. I found over 15 nests in it when I scrapped it out. All over the place, interior, frame rails, you name it, it had a nest.

I agree with GD. Way back when, before all of the emission stuff started, circa '71-72, the disty was given manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance. After emissions started showing up on engines, the vacuum source was moved to a ported one, to help clean up the exhaust. Older vacuum advance units had different actuating arms, (read over-all length), and the point of connection on the advance plate of the disty was different. IE; the lenght and shape of the slot in the arm was different between like models of engines vs different type of vehicle the engine was in. (read truck vs car, and camero vs impala). Haven't messed around with any of the newer ones to know if there is still a difference there. Also, the mechanical advance has changed as well. Which you can still modify yourself, if you can find the spring/weight kit for your type of engine.

Leaning towards clutch malfunction here, too. Possibilities are: Cable streched, but that would be streching it a bit. Throw-out lever, either bent, broke, or came off of the pivot, or off of the throw-out bearing. Clutch disc, either it's hanging up on the input shaft of the tranny, possibly do to mud/dirt on the splines, or the disc failed and has wedged the clutch material between the disc and the flywheel/pressure plate, not allowing the clutch to fully release.

Was really wanting to make it out to the Meet, but I just can't afford the time right now. If this will be an annual event, I will make the effort to do it next year. A little better planning of the Spring work load, and I'll have the time to do so. Y'all have fun now, y'hear!!!!!!

The way I sorted out the wiring for the ER-27/MPFI ECU, was to start at the ECU itself, and trace down the wires. I have a couple of diagrams for it, but could have used a bit more. Even if the color codes don't quiet match up, you can ID what each wire goes to, or comes from. You will need 2 relays to run the engine. One is the ignition relay, the other is the fuel pump relay. I can't ID which relay does what from the pics, and have no-clue as to what the booted items are. I'm fairly new to Soobs, and I'm just now getting into the FI wiring stuff.

Could just be a totally un-related electrical problem that just cropped up. Or,,, It could be a water leak at the manifold gasket(s), which have the engine hydro-locked. Pull your spark plugs, checking for coolant as you do, then try cranking it again. If it turns over, and sprays coolant all over the place, you have found the problem. Should be evidant as to which side needs more attention.

I'm strongly considering one of these http://www.discountconverter.com/converters/images/8015.gif for on the ER-27 exhaust when I get to that point, also comes in a 2-1/2" size. Equal length lead pipes, with a cross-connection is the best route for power gains. Any bends in the system, should be as smooth as possible, too.

I removed the bar from the '82 when I did the dual exhaust system. It let me keep the pipes closer to the body for better ground clearance. I haven't noticed any difference in handling, and I drive both on the hi-ways, and back roads. I also have the bar un-hooked on the Wifes '95 Grand Am. Only reason for that is, they didn't have the links in stock when I replaced the control arm bushings, and the old links broke when I tried to remove them. No difference in handling there either, and it's made quite afew trips down to Lexington, Ky.

bump it back to the front

Topics been up before, and the answer given was you can get it thru JCWhitney, but never a part number was given. Well, I've looked thru a catalog, and I've been to their web site, me no can find the gasket. Anyone out there have the part number? I really need to get one for the '82, don't think the Police will like it to much ifin I drive around without a windshield.

I deleted the HH on my '82, by using a "T" fitting in it's place. Got the fitting from the scrapped-out '86 BRAT. Still need to fab a mount for the fitting, but it'll work as is.

You can get the tensioner springs thru this site, http://www.alloemautoparts.com/ Not sure on the brake clips, may find them at a Parts Supplier though. Would take old one with you, to match it up.

Used to use a bumper jack to break the bead, but that was eons ago. Now, I just use a heavy vehicle, place rim/tire properly in front of tire of said vehicle, and drive over it. You just want to catch the edge of the rim of bad tire, with the vehicle tire. Of course, you need to have valve stem removed prior to doing this, (either the whole stem (cut it with a knife), or the core). You also have to flip the tire over to break the other bead loose. Then, you use a couple of tire irons to peel tire off rim. You want to have the bead, down in the low portion of the rim, oposite the side you are working on- but the same side of tire, when you attempt to peel tire off. Ain't exactly easy, 'specially with a 13" tire, but it's doable. Don't try to get to big of a bite, when removing the tire. Otherwise, you'll just be fighting yourself.... Get a bite with one tire iron, pry bead up and over rim, then move over about an inch to get next tire iron in. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get to that point. I could swap 4, 15" tires this way in under 1/2 hour. Old off, new on, and inflated, back on vehicle.

Last road trip in the '82, I got 31mpg, w/stock tire size. This was combined driving on State 2-lanes and the big 4-lane, 60-75mph driving speeds. Edited to correct typoes.

Pulled the tranny out, but not without dumping gear lube all over the floor. Was surprized that both mounts were still in one piece. Going to take the tranny spline end off of one of these "extra" driveshafts I have here. Then if I have to drop another tranny, I can put it on the output shaft, and not make another mess on the floor. But that's what they make floordry for, isn't it?!? Decided to pull the windshield out, it has a long crack in it, all the way across the bottom. That be a no-no, according to the police. I have a replacement here, just need new gasket. Did find the source of water leak on DS whenever it rained. Gasket was not sealed properly at lower corner, nice little rust hole there. That'll be fun to fix. Also pulled the entire dash out, for two reasons. The top is cracked all over the place, and I have a good one sitting here. Pulling dash isn't all that difficult, but getting out those push-lock buttons that hold the defroster vents in, be a pain. There are three bolts under them, that have to come out to remove dash. That's when I decided to pull the windshield. Plus, I wanted to re-do the heater box, with the one from the '86. I pulled the '86's heater box apart, and put the new core in it. Way much easier to do the core replacement described in the USRM, than it is to take the heater box apart. Plus, you still have to do some trimming where the tubes come thru the case. But I atleast have a new core, with non-leaking shut-off valve. Going to remove the tar-like stuff on the floorboards. Then see about patching up some of the rust areas there. I'll be Rhino-lining the floor afterwards. Then I'll be swapping all of the interior trim, to match the "new" dash. Unless I can change the color of the dash that is. Biege dash, and Smoke Gray trim, just doesn't sound like a good color combo to me. And Scott, I've had to chisel some of that epoxy-like substance off of trannies in the past. I know what you're talking about. Mean stuff it is, yes.

Well, I decided to leave the front suspension under the BRAT for now, may need to roll it out of the garage. It needs a powerwash, badly, (see below). Anyways, I've dropped the exhaust system, drained the coolant, removed radiator, and pulled the engine. Had company show up, so I called it quits for the day. I'll be heading out to the garage here in a few, to commence the days activities. I tell you, it was a real nasty yucky mess on the PS, due to a blown inner boot. That crap is just plain YUCK!! How do they get away with calling it Lube???? Didn't think to take it to the car wash first, So now it'll be done in the driveway. Oh well, can get a better washdown with engine tranny out of there.

http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm Good write-up on the Weber.

A-MEN!~!!!!!!!!