TomRhere

http://www.dune-buggy.com/turbo/index.htm Good write-up on turboes on that site. Has list of what vehicles have what turbo. May help you in your search. That's all the help I can offer.

Sounding more like the switch is going south on you. Works this time, don't work next time, works another time you try it = switch, usually, but not always. Skip That was good!

Don't know on the list, but the mechanical secondaries mod is in the USRM, or was. Thinking it was SubaruJunkie (Brian) that did it. May be on his site.

You are correct. 2v per cell, 6 cell = 12v. 1 amp charger is a trickle charger, usually they're 2 amp though. Good for maintaning a battery's charge, or for bringing a discharged battery back to life. Personnally, I like the one I have. 2/10 amp, and a 50amp start selection. My method of recharging a dead batery is; Hooking up the charger, to battery 1st, then plug it in. Switch it to the 50 amp setting, until the built in timer kicks it out. Then drop the setting to the 2 amp mode. This "excites" the plates, and makes for a faster, and deeper charge. Atleast that's my belief.

Haven't rebuilt a Soob alt, yet. But they are not that hard to do, hardest part is getting the nut in front of the pulley loosened. Well, parts availability figures in there too. Would recommend that you replace the brushes while you have it apart.

I've managed to remeber my password for the photo album. Put some pics in there of the '84. They're small, but it's all I have right now.

If it will pivot on the broken bolt, you're halfway there. Pivot the manifold while pulling, or prying up on it. May help to have an extra pair of hands to help you. The corrosion in there will bind it up, pivoting the manifold should help keep it broke loose. May take awhile to get it off of the stud, so be patient.

You may need another person to help you on this, but i've done it myself. I stuck a prybar under one of the wheel studs, and against the next one over. Place assembly on the floor with prybar against floor also. Then use the breaker bar to remove the nut. Can be a pain, literally. But it'll work.

Moosens had some rebuild kits a while back. May want to PM him and check on availability.

Haven't given her to much of an eyeball yet, but she looks good so far. Interior is sweet, no crack in the dash. All the trim is shiny, and looks new. Hell, the ashtray looks new even, lighter may have lit one cigarette by the looks of it. She's sat for over a year, with no one paying her any attention. Bert says the "frame" is rusted, haven't scoped that out yet. But that's why he hasn't done anything more to it, didn't think it worth the money. She definetly needs engine work, (bad DS HG), or replacement, not real sure on the carb itself either, time will tell. Feels like she's only running on 2 cylinders right now, but you'll get that with a bad HG. She was puking Anti-freeze when I was putting her on the dolly. Paint color is Cosmic Blue, and the interior is a Dark Blue. White rims, with center caps, fairly decent tires. Complete new exhaust system, BONUS!! New radiator, PS side HG, PS side axle. Have the service write-ups for the work Bert has had done to her. As stated previously, the trip was good. About 380/390 miles there, then another 30 miles further west to get the BRAT. Had to swap the battery out, and change a rear tire, before we loaded her. Was a bit fun to get her running at first, but she drove herself onto the dolly. Followed us home with no problems. Sent some pics of her to Miles, so he can put them on his site. I've forgotten my password to the photo site here, so I can't post them. D'OH!!!!!!!!!!!!

Typing you a PM after I post this.

Some light raps with a hammer near the area around the stubborn bolt, may help wick the penitrant in further. You might try to swing the manifold back and forth, pivoting it at that bolt. Just don't try to do to much of a swing. I have used snotrocket's method in the past, it works sometimes. May also try using one of those flat prybars under it, near the stubborn bolt, to maybe get it to move upwards abit. As stated previously, heat applied to the area, may help also.

Just got in the door about 20 minutes ago, (1:45am). I be abit tired! Left out of here at 7:am this morning, heading to Baraboo, Wi., a 390 mile trip one-way. Meet up with Bert V., and picked up the '84 BRAT. Had some interesting moments driving back here, due to road conditions. Wasn't nothing we couldn't handle, even towing the BRAT on a dolly. But there were some plain I_D_I_O_T_S out there. Was a couple spots in Illinios where it was snowing heavily, roads covered, with limited visability. I'm doing 40mph, and feeling fairly safe doing so, ('94 GMC 4X4). Had a few nummies pass me doing atleast 50, maybe 60. Think they're the ones we saw off the road a few miles down. Ifin we weren't so far from home, and not hauling a vehicle, we would have stopped to assist them. But we were pulling a vehicle, and we had no tow-strap with us. Graphics and tail-fins don't give you good snow driving sense, I guess. Time for another beer, and then it's nap time. Later............................

AMEN! AMEN! TURBONE

I likes it! Mike; I think that's a type of flexible pipe. I've used some in the past, but it looked different than that pictured there. It's solid pipe, but you can bend it by hand easily. Ummmm, Where's the water pump? I no can see it.

I also strongly recommend that you use the EA-82 flywheel. You will have to replace the Timing Belts eventually, and having the right flywheel on the engine makes the job a whole lot easier. If you do opt to use the EA-81 flywheel, take the auto flywheel, lay it ontop of the manual flywheel, align the mount flange bolt holes, bolt them together, then transfer all of the marks over to the manual flywheel. One of the mounting bolt holes is spaced differently than the rest, so be sure to check for proper alignment there. I truly wish the person that did this swap in my BRAT had done this, but he didn't. So I'm stuck with it for now. The coil is in the stock location, and the wires going to the Disty have been lengthened. The waterpump mounted fan, will sit very close to the radiator. I opted to remove it from mine, and I'm not running the A/C. Welcome to the Board.........

And I've seen it happen more than once. There's some tape over the tubes on the replacement tank, and you didn't take it off. Just a thought.

Damn, I hates when that happens! And I've had that happen a few times to my own engines. Hopefully there's no major damage to the lower end.

When was the last time the lower radiator hose was replaced? Could be that the hose has failed internally, (delaminated), and is causing blockage of flow into the water pump. Seen it happen more than once.

I can afford more shirts. Count me in!

Have you re-checked the torque of the axle nut? Reason for asking is, I've had the axles out/in on both BRATs, for various reasons. After driving for awhile, the hubs were loose and I was getting strange noises, found the axle nut to be loose. Don't know why that happens, but it does. On doing the bearings... I've used a press to do them, and I've used the hammer/punch method also. Hammer method is a bit easier, atleast in my opinion.

'82 Brat with EA-82 engine, 4 Spd D/R. Swapped to the Weber, and ditched the Hitachi. She's running better overall, but I still have some querks. Jets are whatever they sent the Carb with. I have a Fuel Pressure Regulator installed, and have been playing with the settings on it, and the carb. I do have the return line on it. Wanted to flood out, with out the FPR on it. Can say that with the colder weather, i've had to turn the FPR up a notch. Mainly because it's wanting to bog down, when I give it gas, but only when it's not up to operating temps. I do have other issues, but they are related to the engine swap, and can't be isolated to the carb. Lots of things not done quite right on this engine swap, still sorting them out.

Terry; Will do, as soon as I can find out where it is located. Adam; Yep, got the complete ECU wiring loom out to the engine. Been working on removing the extra wires, and such. The diagrams I have are here, http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1493 I'll tell you now, they are HUGE! The ECU wiring is in the 2nd diagram. Find the Fuel Pump and Ignition Relay's, (lower right side of diagram), then scroll up the page a bit, you'll see the Diode.

I've been going over the ECU and other wiring for the engine out of the '88 XT-6 I bought. I have a few posers for those who know. There is a White connector, with 4 wires in it, heading for the tranny. This is not the Neutral switch. Wires are as follows: Black Light Green/White Light Green Light Blue/Red What wire is what? I know one has to be for the Back-up lights, just don't know which one. Nor do I have a clue as to what the other ones are for. Also, does anyone have the pin-out for a D/R 5spd tranny switches? Need to know which wire is which for the 4WD, Low-range, Reverse, and what not. One more question. There is a Diode shown, (in the schematic I have), that is on the wiring for the Ignition Relay. Green/White and Black/White wires. B/W wire comes from the Ignition "key on & start", and ECU pin #19. G/W wire comes from the ECU, pin # 39, and controls the Ignition relays coil. Apparently, this diode was in the interior wiring of the car, and I didn't get it. What is this diode? Can I just hook one in, and what size do I need? Okay, that was more than just one question. So shoot me!

There's a couple of things that can happen to a clutch to make it slip. Getting them over-heated is one of the major ones. When you get it pulled, look at the disc itself. If it looks all shinny, it's probally glazed over. Coarse grit sandpaper will remove that. Same with the flywheel and pressure plate. They get glazed from over heating, then they'll slip. I have resurected a few slipping clutches, just by sanding everything down a bit. May save you some cash, may not. Going to cost you some work, either way. Possibility here that you've over heated the pressure plate enough to weaken the springs/diaphram. If that is the case, you'll need a new one. Does the pedal feel way easier to push in? If so, would bet the PP is toast. All I'm saying here is, a few hours labor, may save you a few hundred dollars. Not saying it will be good as new, but it may get you by until you can afford a new one. Just got to be mindfull of the fact that the clutch is weaker now. good luck......